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I'm excited about the Buff Sussex influence, if it works out. I have a kind BYC'er who is also going to (try) and help me out! She has one single Buff Sussex hen, with "flawed" YELLOW legs! Whooot! And the hen is going to be running with a pure Swedish roo! So, yeah . . . I sure won't be getting a lot of eggs from just one hen, and the odds of ANY hatching eggs are so dim, especially shipped across country like this. However, I'm still going to try. All I need is that one rooster . . . who will "for sure" have a single upright comb and yellow legs from that cross.
The idea in sing the Buff Sussex, is obviously the Buff Rock is giving us issues with the "spot fade". I introduced Buff Rock to increase size, add yellow legs, and mostly to lighten up the body color. But I'm reading more and more, that even the chicken experts don't understand exactly what genes make the final traces of black on the tail go away in the solid Buff breds like Buff Rock and Buff Orpington. I am guessing those "unknown" genes are interfering with the Mottling genes?
My theory is that the solid Buff genes in Buff Orps and Buff Rocks somehow work as "spot blockers". They don't want to play with the Mottling genes, obviously.
However, there is another Buff color - Buff Columbian, that is the yellow color with the ring of black around the neck and on the tail, and that color "for sure" plays nice with Mottling, as Buff Columbian chickens are used all the time in making bantam Mottled Cochins. (If you've been over to the Calico Cochins thread, they are having NO problems getting tons of white spotting on top of a Columbian "base coat" so that's a proven fact that Columbian works great with Mottling!)
So, that's the direction I'll be heading next. I did try the red + mottled gene using a NHR roo, and got red-mottled, so it looks like (so far) only the solid Buff color is having issues getting spots laid on top. We're back to using NHR, or possibly Partridge Rock (as I don't think brown colors have issues picking up spots?) to add size and yellow legs. But the Buff Columbian color will be critical in getting the color to lighten up. I really want to draw out the oranges and reds and golds in this breed.
Another breed that carries this color is Buff Brahma, but they have different combs, feathery legs, and short stubby tails. So, they could be used for the size and color (and yellow legs) but would require breeding out a ton of other traits. The Buff Sussex is much closer to our final goal, as they only need spots and yellow legs to work as Alohas.
I hope when she starts sending me eggs that I can get just a single roo to hatch! Gahhh . . .
FYI - Swedish do have a "Mille" color, but it's a darker, more orange-red color. Not "ugly" by any means, but I also want Alohas to have some that are the lighter buttery-yellow Mille color you see on Mille Cochins.
The idea in sing the Buff Sussex, is obviously the Buff Rock is giving us issues with the "spot fade". I introduced Buff Rock to increase size, add yellow legs, and mostly to lighten up the body color. But I'm reading more and more, that even the chicken experts don't understand exactly what genes make the final traces of black on the tail go away in the solid Buff breds like Buff Rock and Buff Orpington. I am guessing those "unknown" genes are interfering with the Mottling genes?
My theory is that the solid Buff genes in Buff Orps and Buff Rocks somehow work as "spot blockers". They don't want to play with the Mottling genes, obviously.
However, there is another Buff color - Buff Columbian, that is the yellow color with the ring of black around the neck and on the tail, and that color "for sure" plays nice with Mottling, as Buff Columbian chickens are used all the time in making bantam Mottled Cochins. (If you've been over to the Calico Cochins thread, they are having NO problems getting tons of white spotting on top of a Columbian "base coat" so that's a proven fact that Columbian works great with Mottling!)
So, that's the direction I'll be heading next. I did try the red + mottled gene using a NHR roo, and got red-mottled, so it looks like (so far) only the solid Buff color is having issues getting spots laid on top. We're back to using NHR, or possibly Partridge Rock (as I don't think brown colors have issues picking up spots?) to add size and yellow legs. But the Buff Columbian color will be critical in getting the color to lighten up. I really want to draw out the oranges and reds and golds in this breed.
Another breed that carries this color is Buff Brahma, but they have different combs, feathery legs, and short stubby tails. So, they could be used for the size and color (and yellow legs) but would require breeding out a ton of other traits. The Buff Sussex is much closer to our final goal, as they only need spots and yellow legs to work as Alohas.
I hope when she starts sending me eggs that I can get just a single roo to hatch! Gahhh . . .
FYI - Swedish do have a "Mille" color, but it's a darker, more orange-red color. Not "ugly" by any means, but I also want Alohas to have some that are the lighter buttery-yellow Mille color you see on Mille Cochins.
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