THE Brinsea Octagon 20 Eco Thread; Hatches, etc. (PICS)

Just bought this Octagon 20 Pro, is it the same as the Eco? It has the auto cradle and the humidity pump but I'm going to have to buy some tubing, is there anywhere but Brinsea to order the silicone tubing? And whatis a guarantee card? The PDF file I downloaded for the incubator listed it as a part.??? This one came with egg dividers that have a foam pad made on to them, I haven't found any information about these.

While I wait to get the tubing for the humidity pump, can it be used? I generally do a dry incubation and the humidity here is pretty high lately, 68% right now.
 
Forgot pictures. Here is the humidity pump and the dividers. Has anyone else seen this type of divider? They have to be dividers, they fit down in the grooves where dividers go??



Inside the lid



The base and tray on the cradle




In some of the photo's online of this model, there is a clear plastic grid that goes over the top of the eggs, I didn't get one of those but didn't see it listed as a part on the PDF file. Is that to keep the eggs from rolling out the top of the railing?
 
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i have now read all 75 pages and have learned a hell of alot of info. the only thing i need to know is how do you clean the top half.its not in my instructions. .........anyone......pretty pllllease.
you have to unscrew all the screws and then wipe it all down and put it back together. Seems daunting isn't really though
 
First hatch with my brinsea I hatched 18/18, then 13/14 then 17/17... you can't beat it, but this time around I'm using an older model food dehydrator as an incubator. So we will see how it goes.
 
Having trouble getting my humidity up on day 18. Both trays filled and sponges laid
In trays. Another flat sponge laid on top of the tray area. Soaked. Vent half closed. Any suggestions?
 
Having trouble getting my humidity up on day 18. Both trays filled and sponges laid
In trays. Another flat sponge laid on top of the tray area. Soaked. Vent half closed. Any suggestions?
I take a clean, unused cloth, make it wet (not too wet, wring it out a bit) and spread it over the wells, dipping it into each well, so it can soak up more water from it as needed. When the humidity drops I just lift the lid enough to allow me to pour some water in, onto the cloth. It's a good idea to place the eggs so you have available space for these top-ups. With the wet cloth I can easily maintain humidity of 60-70% and adjust it as required.
 
I have been dry incubating and hatching with excellent results. I wouldn't worry about the humidity unless it's ducks. The temp is more crucial. I don't put a drop of water in it and the humidity stays between 20 and 30%
 
I take a clean, unused cloth, make it wet (not too wet, wring it out a bit) and spread it over the wells, dipping it into each well, so it can soak up more water from it as needed. When the humidity drops I just lift the lid enough to allow me to pour some water in, onto the cloth. It's a good idea to place the eggs so you have available space for these top-ups. With the wet cloth I can easily maintain humidity of 60-70% and adjust it as required.
I also use a wet face cloth in mine and it works great humidity perfect
 
I have a question about the Brinsea 20 Octagon bator, no automatic turner. I received this from a friend and it looks like it's never been used and all the parts are intact.

My problem is this...the thermometer reads at 99.5 where it is mounted under the hood but when I place a analog meat thermometer inside a water wiggler in the base, the temp reading is 90 degrees when the bator temp reads 99.5. When I increased the heat on the bator until the meat thermometer reads 99.5, the bator thermometer reads at the highest limit of its measurement, 112.

This meat thermometer is very accurate and sensitive, so I'm wondering....all the reviews I've read on this bator shows those people having great success by using the bator as is, using the original thermometer, but how in the world do they get eggs to hatch if the actual internal temps of the eggs is 10-12 degrees lower than the reading under the hood?

How can any thermometer be accurate if it's not reading internal egg temps instead of just ambient bator temps?
 

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