THE Brinsea Octagon 20 Eco Thread; Hatches, etc. (PICS)

So I bought a little giant because my 2 brinsea ecosystem were thus occupied (long story, smh)... and I wasn't sending my sister to school with my octagon. By end of first week, there was an unfortunate temperature incident: the digital read 101.4 and my spot check and incu therm read 114 and 118 on opposite ends. Needless to say I'm unimpressed. Pretty sure I lost all the eggs.

Live and Learn... Tossed the Styrofoam (more consistent temps with the manual Farmer Innovator, than the digital LG). But, in the future, I'll just buy her a brinsea mini and leave it at that.
 
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So I bought a little giant because my 2 brinsea ecosystem were thus occupied (long story, smh)... and I wasn't sending my sister to school with my octagon. By end of first week, there was an unfortunate temperature incident: the digital read 101.4 and my spot check and incu therm read 114 and 118 on opposite ends. Needless to say I'm unimpressed. Pretty sure I lost all the eggs.

Live and Learn... Tossed the Styrofoam (more consistent temps with the manual Farmer Innovator, than the digital LG). But, in the future, I'll just buy her a brinsea mini and leave it at that.
I can't believe there hasn't been a recall on those things. I have never read so many horrible reviews. Mine went straight into the garbage after the first run, too
 
I fired up my brand new Eco20 today in anticipation of my hatching eggs arriving. The glass thermometer up top reads about 103ish, while my digital hygrometer/thermometer reads 99 at egg level. If I remember correctly from reading this LONG thread.. this is fairly consistent and correct? I'm bummed that my incutherm probe hygrometer/thermometer won't fit through the vent holes. I think I'll go to Petsmart tomorrow and buy one of the reptile type thermometers to have a third one.
The Brinsea Spot Check thermometer is perfect for this. It's a little expensive, and doesn't have a hygrometer, but with a little manipulation it can be placed anywhere in the incubator through the vent hole
 
Day 22 dilemma:

Today marks the 22nd day of incubation and I got 3 eggs that hasn't hatched. Out of 20 fertile eggs, 17 has hatched and these 3 little guys have yet to budge. What are my options left and should I candle them to see if there's sign of life? What can I do to learn from this experience?

Thank you.
 
[COLOR=0000CD]Day 22 dilemma:[/COLOR]

Today marks the 22nd day of incubation and I got 3 eggs that hasn't hatched. Out of 20 fertile eggs, 17 has hatched and these 3 little guys have yet to budge. What are my options left and should I candle them to see if there's sign of life? What can I do to learn from this experience?

Thank you.
17 for 20 is a great hatch rate. I would be very happy with that for myself. If it were me, I would give them one more day, then call them gone. I've never had good luck with chicks that hatch after day 23. Seriously, 17/20 is very good
 
17 for 20 is a great hatch rate. I would be very happy with that for myself. If it were me, I would give them one more day, then call them gone. I've never had good luck with chicks that hatch after day 23. Seriously, 17/20 is very good
Egg info. on the remaining 3 eggs:
I actually started with 24 eggs, 12 of them came from my backyard stock and the other 12 came from a friend of mine, who came to visit and drove here. After 1st candling, 4 of the eggs from my friend were not fertilize so they went into the trash. All mine were fine,...those roosters tire me out just being in the backyard.
lau.gif


Of the remaining 20 fertilized eggs, All 12 of mine hatched by day 20th and 5 of his hatched on day 20th.

Due to the eggs traveling, I did set the eggs to sit for 2days (air cell top up) before putting in the incubator, and they all developed well and there was a chick in all his eggs on day 14 candling.

Question:
If the air cell was damage from the 2hr drive, the egg wouldn't have develop at all, correct? This would have been evident on day 7 and 14th candling, right?

Looks to me, the air cell was ok in the egg on candling 7 & 14 day, and egg was solid black on day 14th/18th. What would have caused the egg not to hatch? I'm trying to understand / learn from this.
On day 18th, I pumped the RH between 68-70% and temp. around 99-100, and still holding.

My next brood are Ayam Cemani, I want (need) to make sure these high $ eggs hatch.

Thanks again for the feedback.
 
Egg info. on the remaining 3 eggs:
I actually started with 24 eggs, 12 of them came from my backyard stock and the other 12 came from a friend of mine, who came to visit and drove here. After 1st candling, 4 of the eggs from my friend were not fertilize so they went into the trash. All mine were fine,...those roosters tire me out just being in the backyard.  :lau   

Of the remaining 20 fertilized eggs,  All 12 of mine hatched by day 20th and 5 of his hatched on day 20th.

Due to the eggs traveling, I did set the eggs to sit for 2days (air cell top up) before putting in the incubator, and they all developed well and there was a chick in all his eggs on day 14 candling.  

Question:
If the air cell was damage from the 2hr drive, the egg wouldn't have develop at all, correct? This would have been evident on day 7 and 14th candling, right? 

Looks to me, the air cell was ok in the egg on candling 7 & 14 day, and egg was solid black on day 14th/18th. What would have caused the egg not to hatch? I'm trying to understand / learn from this. 
On day 18th, I pumped the RH between 68-70% and temp. around 99-100, and still holding.

My next brood are A[COLOR=383838]yam Cemani, I want (need) to make sure these high $ eggs hatch. [/COLOR]

[COLOR=383838]Thanks again for the feedback.[/COLOR]
Holy cow, straight from barnyard to Ayam Cemani? Now I know why you're worried about every single egg. I have no experience with shipped eggs, so I can't help you there, but it sounds like your incubator parameters are good
 
Greetings to all @ BYC. This is my first post/question. I've been skimming through the pages of this tread. 110 pages, WOW.
I'm very impressed with what I've been reading about the Brinsea Octagon Eco.
I'm thinking about purchasing one.
Any recommendations on where to shop? Do these incubators ever go on sale? If yes, when?
Do I need to buy any additional items to go with it?
Thanks.
Craig.
 
The Brinsea Spot Check thermometer is perfect for this. It's a little expensive, and doesn't have a hygrometer, but with a little manipulation it can be placed anywhere in the incubator through the vent hole
Thank you SCflock. I looked at it, but it seems an expensive option for a thermometer. I found a much cheaper option right in my kitchen...someone on a thread somewhere mentioned a meat thermometer. It fits perfectly and seems to agree with the Brinsea thermometer on temp. I'll have to find a small/narrow hygrometer to fit in the Brinsea tomorrow because mine is too big, but I set eggs tonight. I have 28 Barnevelders and BBS Ameracaunas in the Eco 20 (yeah..it's only supposed to fit 20 lol), and 28 barnyard mix (mostly OE's) in the hovabator. I figure I'll lose some at candling, so I'm packing them in. ;) I'll be attempting a regular humidity (40ish) in the Brinsea and a dry-ish (30-35) in the Hovabator.
 
The Brinsea Spot Check thermometer is perfect for this. It's a little expensive, and doesn't have a hygrometer, but with a little manipulation it can be placed anywhere in the incubator through the vent hole


So this season is my first. However, I now have 2 octagons. I bought them a few weeks apart. One thing I noticed was temp difference right away. First one was preset to 99.5, second was at 97, based on thermometer. Then, I realized that the thermometer sat at different angles and distances from the center. I have since adjusted so that they are similar and the temp on the glass matches what I think is ideal in relation to spot check in certain locations. 103 is not acceptable imo. It's likely a true reading, so position seems off to me. The spot check is reliable for really figuring temps all around. I worry about the temp, then the humidity.
 

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