The Buckeye Thread

(Here's another great older post, from 2009, from Chris McCary from another thread, re-posting here to keep the good info current):

The advantage to bringing in a different line or even a strain is that the new line or strain has a trait that you are lacking in yours so you want some boost to help you with that specific trait. This is the reason you would want to bring in a new line or strain, . . . to improve some trait that you have not been able to improve on your own. Another reason would be if your line is suffering from a genetic diversity standpoint (you'd know that by poor fertility, poor hatch rate, etc.) and you just need an infusion of some new genes.

If there is a trait you see that needs improving and you are unable to do it by culling in your linebreeding, then identify a line or even a strain that has the trait you are looking to improve and then decide if you want to outcross.

The disadvantages would be bringing in some bad trait that is NOT now present in your line. For instance, I have never had a single comb Buckeye from my line (if someone experiences this with ONLY my line, I'd like to know). Introducing one of these other lines, you may bring in that "bad trait." I see it expressed in the combs of some of the Buckeyes I see. If you bring in an entirely new strain, not related to your birds in any way, then for a generation or two, you may have things crop up that you haven't seen but you would be accepting that fact.

With ALBC strain in your birds there are not many strains that would represent what you would call a total outcross (and you'd be hard pressed to find such a strain). Many other lines are of the same strains represented in your birds. I do not believe in outcrossing just for the sake of outcrossing. I brought in the ALBC male in 2007 because my Urch birds needed some genetic diversity & because I was wanting to improve size, shape & color & laying frequency-- so I had many reasons. Also, the ALBC male was not a total outcross as Urch strain was used heavily in its creation (as I was told, approx. 50% was an outcross, 50% Urch of which 1/2 or 25% of that 15 generations Urch removed) so I suffered no ill effects from the new source. Fortunately a Master Breeder did a lot of the hard work for us in 2004-2007. To get my ALBC male ('Fawks' as we affectionately call him) took three years and more than 1,000 chicks hatched the final year, in 2007. Then you had someone with an superior eye for selecting making the picks. That male, as all the ALBC strain, is already rich in genetic diversity.

Now there are real differences in our "eyes" for selecting & differences of opinion as to what we think a Buckeye looks like. One top breeder likes shorter legs than I do and a darker color. I like thick shanks but am not willing to sacrifice shortening the legs to get a thicker shank. I look at vigor, body shape (do I see a square?), heart/chest girth, thickness of shanks, thickness of skull, body weight, pelvic thickness, length and straightness of the keel bone, good spacing between the legs, thick thighs -- these traits I put first. Let me be the first to admit that I have not had Buckeyes long enough to have the best eye (this takes experience), but I am endeavoring to get better.

{Let me explain what I mean by vigor. I mean virile, healthy, robust, spirited, energetic, muscular and lively -- I haven't had any Buckeyes that weren't this way; has anyone else? As Laura says, the chicks leap out of their shells--or my chicks outdoors on a windy 30 something degree morning running around like a little bug with their mam hen-- that is vigor.}

Secondarily, for me is color, comb shape (although I will not tolerate a large crumpled, garbled, messy comb-- no need as I have plenty that have excellent pea combs with the 3 ridges with highest in the middle, medium size),. For instance also, I DO NOT cull simply because I see green feathers in the neck or black specks on the feathers, or some red tarnish on the legs. I am not there yet. I DO cull for a half white primary wing feather (but again, I rarely see that so I have all those others without the fault). I cull for long rectangular bodies.

There are some people who select their keepers for the most asinine reasons, and it shows in their birds, for example because a pullet/hen goes broody. Historically, (and I believe this is now proven with Ms. Metcalf's advertisement from the old book), the Buckeye is a broody breed. Broodiness is a breed characteristic. When you select females on this basis (lack of it), then you are probably culling some who have excellent shape and nice, large bone structure, are going to be good layers, fast molters & have other very good attributes (wide pelvic width & depth). Because she went broody does not mean she lacks all these other superior physical traits. If you choose the non-broodies and the ones that always lays the maximum number of eggs, eventually, you are going to possess what looks like a RIR or more like a Leghorn hen. Some so-called breeders even opine how they want the Buckeye to look more like a RIR with a long rectangular body. A Buckeye is more of a square, more 1900 Cornish in appearance-- just read the description in the Standard & compare it to the other breeds. The Buckeye Hen is what gives you the shape; the Buckeye male gives you the color. The male brings to the mating the laying genes of his mother; this goes to his pullets. Remember, color is easy to correct. Body Type is more difficult. IMHO, because this is ignored or these other asinine breeding practices are followed, you have a good number of Buckeyes out there that look like a RIR-- sorry, I must call it like I see it.

My arguments have nothing to do with my debate that I like the leg a little longer (that is a matter of preference to the eye) or the different shades of mahogany bay color (look at the nut-- it is not the same color all over-- there are different shades) but my points have more to do with, "What is a Buckeye?" At the Ohio National in November, I heard a woman I didn’t know in the Buckeye aisle remark that she wouldn't be ashamed to take any of the Buckeyes home she saw at the show. I thought to myself, "Well, I certainly would . . . ," like the one that for all purposes was really MORE RIR-- there was RIR looking male being shown as a Buckeye! At my request with Mr. Brown, of the "Brown Strain," he walked around with me, and he critiqued the the various Buckeyes, he said, "whoever is breeding that bird (talking about the one that looks like a RIR), is 'ruining' the breed." I simply said, "I agree." I said, "that [bird] is really a RIR." He said, "Yes, it is." If I had been taking a Buckeye Cockerel home, I would have been ashamed to take the "RIR-looking Buckeye" home & call it a Buckeye.

I apologize if I have stepped on any sensitive toes or if I appear to be ranting. It is not my intention to insult anyone. I simply want to point out the obvious and the absurd. Don't get bent out of shape over a green feather in the neck of a pullet. Look at what a couple of breeders at ALBC were able to accomplish with the Buckeye in 3 years vs. some who have kept the breed a lot longer. That was by better selecting and not simply more hatching. Don't listen to me if you want. Try your own way & see.

Chris
 
Last edited:
(And yet another great post from the older thread, originally posted by mrandmrschicken)

I ran across this one for you genetics people.

Knowning as Rolling Matings, this system has been in use for many years and is one of the easiest as far as record keeping is concerned.

Basically, it involves breeding cocks to pullets and stags to hens.

For example, let's say you start with a trio, 2 hens and 1 cock bird (not related).

First year: breed the non-related cock to the 2 hens. Once the chicks are grown save the 2 best stags (you should always save twice as many as you need) and the best pullets.

Second year: breed the original hens to their sons and the pullets to their father. Once the chicks are grown save the best stags and best pullets.

Third year: Now is when the matings really begin to 'roll.' Your pullets from last year are now hens; so, they join the original two. Your stags are now cocks and join the original cock. Take your stag(s) that were hatched in year 2 and breed them to the hens; take your cocks and breed them to the pullets hatched in year 2.

And so on and so forth...................
Each year you should cull your hens and cocks to the best birds just like you do the pullets and stags. There are variations of this method, but you can figure those out yourselves. This system is easy and it works extremely well.
 
(Here's another great older post, from 2009, from Chris McCary from another thread, re-posting here to keep the good info current):

The advantage to bringing in a different line or even a strain is that the new line or strain has a trait that you are lacking in yours so you want some boost to help you with that specific trait. This is the reason you would want to bring in a new line or strain, . . . to improve some trait that you have not been able to improve on your own. Another reason would be if your line is suffering from a genetic diversity standpoint (you'd know that by poor fertility, poor hatch rate, etc.) and you just need an infusion of some new genes.


Research does not bear this out. According to this paper: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2775730/ genetics is one of the least important factors relating to fertility and also correlates the least with heritability. It says:

"Our study shows that the genetic correlation between fertility at different ages for both males and females was very high across ages and was close to one for the male component (Table http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2775730/table/T2/
(Table2).2). The contributions from permanent environment effects in both sexes increased with age, particularly for males (Figures (Figures22 and and3)3) and were much larger than those from the genetic effects, but the correlations across ages were much lower. This pattern agrees with a finding that males having a poor sperm quality index at a young age have a low sperm quality subsequently and a large decline in fertility after the peak [28].
"The heritability of fertility estimated in this study was low at all ages. This is not surprising as it is a fitness related trait. Both male and female components increased initially to a peak, at about 9% for the female and 11% for the male, and then declined with age (Figure (Figure4).4). For comparison with other reports, heritability was also estimated using a repeatability model in which the genetic and permanent environmental variances were assumed to be constant over ages. With this model the estimates of heritability for one week's set of eggs averaged over the laying period were 7% for females and 10% for males and those for repeatability were 24% and 33%, respectively. The magnitude of these estimates falls within the range found in the literature for female fertility. For example, Sapp et al. [13] analysed female fertility with a repeatability model and reported heritability estimates ranging from 5.5% to 7.4% depending on the way in which missing values were treated. Similar estimates were obtained for liability of fertility (h2 = 6.7%; repeatability = 22%) using a threshold Bayesian model [16]."


I would also suggest that "genetic diversity" is actually the opposite of what one strives for in establishing a line. The goal of establishing a line is to minimize genetic diversity and ensure uniform phenotype of the offspring. This is why skilled breeders close their flock. They do not want to introduce the randomness that comes with genetic diversity and sets their breeding program back.

I believe Bob Blosl's name came up earlier in the discussion. He had a post a while back on his site that I cannot seem to locate, but was posted here to BYC: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/447684/farming-and-homesteading-heritage-poultry/140#post_5677934 The relevant parts are below:

Summary: This is a very easy system for the beginner. I use it with my bantams and I only have pair or trio matings hatch about 20 chicks per female and only keep the best chicks that are better than their parents. This way you are breeding them up each season and improving them as if you where scoring them under the old point scoring system used in the 1920. You need to get you an APA standard of perfection and read the good points and bad points for your breed. You need to take the pictures of the standard and make copies of them and put them in a frame and put them in our chicken house so you can look at the pictures in contrast to your birds and one day your minds eye in your brain will be able to spot a bird with a trait or a type you are looking for. This is the way to become a master breeder of your favorite breed. You go slowly at first dont hatch too many chicks that you cant afford to raise. You must cull hard as you are only keeping two to four females per mating and you are only keeping two males per mating. Go small stay with pairs or trios if you want. Large fowl cost a lot of money to raise and maintain per year. Stay down the middle of the road. Dont get caught up in fads like leg color or points on a comb. Dont get caught up in color as your first three to five years you are breeding genes for breed type and high egg production. Also, in doing this you will see improved feather quality and your birds will have tight webbing in their back feathers the shirts on some of the breeds will not drop down to the floor but will be cared high as the picture in the standard of perfection shows you. You can share your surplus birds with others and maybe if you can trust them you can get birds from them later to cross into your closed flock of families but dont count on it as most people you share your birds with will sin and outcross other strains onto your strain thinking they will hit the jackpot and get a good bird to win with. This is Russian Rullet breeding and it wont work and before you know it these folks are out of the breed or out of chickens in no time. You alone or a good partner can take a flock of say Black Java large fowl and in three to five years have these birds improved using this method. If you wish to learn how to even speed up this method of super typed Javas you can use a method called the Hogan Method of breeding which a book was written in the 1920s on the subject. It works as the Buck Eye movement ten years ago was based on this and they took near hatchery typed birds and turned them into wonderful fowl true to the Heritage Breed that they were without crossing and trying to reinvent the breed.

I hope you will take this old method of Rotational Line Breeding which I have used for over twenty years which I learned from a commercial Turkey farmer in Wisconsin. They use it in their farming methods and they can go on forever without crossing new germ plasma into their strain. May the gods in poultry heaven watch over you and keep you from straying away from the successes that they passed onto us during their day on earth into his glory days of Heritage Poultry Farming. Robert Blosl
 
According to this paper: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2775730/ genetics is one of the least important factors relating to fertility and also correlates the least with heritability.

Hmm. Interesting link. However, I will note it deals with broiler chickens in the UK, which are, to my thinking, a far cry from Buckeyes (about as far as you can get and still be poultry, IMO.) But certainly worth a read, I suppose.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Hmm. Interesting link. However, I will note it deals with broiler chickens in the UK, which are, to my thinking, a far cry from Buckeyes (about as far as you can get and still be poultry, IMO.) But certainly worth a read, I suppose.

Thanks for your thoughts.

You are correct that it deals with broilers, as it should, since fertility is a big deal for chickens that can't breed naturally. My primary point that is borne out by the paper is that fertility is affected more by age and environmental factors than it is by genetics. Declining fertility is less likely to be caused by "inbreeding" than by age, poor nutrition, parasite load, and length of daylight. Conversely, the likelihood of inbreeding causing a decrease in fertility is pretty far down the list, according to the research.

Additionally, I've not seen a serious breeder worrying about "genetic diversity" when establishing their own line. It could be I'm reading the wrong threads, but from what I've read of Tom Roebuck, Bob Blosl, and Frank Reese, keeping the flock closed is the best way to establish a line. Not opening it up to outcrossing. If you have documentation of a breeder with an established line who relies on outcrossing to improve his line, I would be very interested in reading it and seeing what circumstances under which this is advisable. In my program, I basically started with birds from a closed flock and have no interest in outcrossing. It's hard enough to get consistency without introducing additional genetic complications.

Thanks in advance.
 
In fact, further study shows that "Researchers found that commercial birds are missing more than half of the genetic diversity native to the species, possibly leaving them vulnerable to new diseases and raising questions about their long-term sustainability. 'Just what is missing is hard to determine,' Muir said. 'But recent concerns over avian flu point to the need to ensure that even rare traits, such as those associated with disease resistance, are not totally missing in commercial flocks.'
He said it's also important to preserve non-commercial breeds and wild birds for the purpose of safeguarding genetic diversity and that interbreeding additional species with commercial lines might help protect the industry."


http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/11/081103192314.htm

To me, the ability to resist disease is vigor.

So, while I agree with Robert (love that guy) that one can certainly do very well with a closed flock, I do not believe that anyone who brings in other strains, or lines of specific strains, are doing themselves a disservice, as long as they do so with specific goals in mind, and with proper records kept.

Bob Gilbert and I have been working on a long term project for some time, "braiding" lines back and forth, and have seen no loss of quality. My flock's fertility has always been high, so cannot speak personally to any gain with such braiding, but I can say I've not had any loss of it at all. In fact, compared to other breeds I've raised, I find Buckeye fertility and vigor to be quite high.

And in regards to phenotype, afaiac, it will only take one so far. I know I would certainly NOT want to purchase a Buckeye that had Dark Cornish crossed into it three (or five, or even ten), generations back.

And fwiw, the strains of Buckeyes are all so related at this stage that I feel it's a moot point. I would venture to guess that 90% of all Buckeyes in the US can be traced back to Urch lines, since he was virtually the only one who was breeding them during their fallow years. But no one can prove that, of course. We'd all love to find some hilljack somewhere who's been breeding them for 50 years like Duane, and who's had a closed flock the whole time. But I don't think we'll find such a person, as I don't think they exist...
 
If you have documentation of a breeder with an established line who relies on outcrossing to improve his line, I would be very interested in reading it and seeing what circumstances under which this is advisable. In my program, I basically started with birds from a closed flock and have no interest in outcrossing. It's hard enough to get consistency without introducing additional genetic complications.

Well, I do know that Duane Urch purchased several Buckeye pullets from me several years ago, so there's that. At the time he told me he was having trouble with (wait for it) fertility, and wanted to bring in some new blood to perk things up a bit.

I believe he also got a cock bird from Chris McCary at one point too, not sure when. Probably around the same time.

And I certainly think Mr. Urch would qualify as a breeder with an established line of Buckeyes.

As well, I have in the past sold Dutch Bantams to LeJean Marshall, another very longtime (more than 50 years) breeder of poultry. As with Buckeyes, most pure Dutch are very close in terms of their genetic connectedness, so it was certainly possible to make such "outcrosses" and see very good results. In fact, LeJean said one of the cock birds I sold him was the best he had used in years, and did great things in his pens. So there are two specific examples for you, right off the top of my head, involving my own birds going back to breeders with established lines.

Bear in mind, neither Mr. Marshall nor Mr. Urch frequent such online forums, so perhaps you are seeing results only from those who do, and your sampling is modified by that fact.

Just a thought.
 
I think when it comes to "genetic diversity" we need to be careful that we are not comparing apples to oranges.

Food security is worried about genetic diversity of a species. They want as much variability as possible in order to preserve rare traits that would be lost in some of the highly bred commercial breeds that we see today. If we had 350 isolated breeds of chickens all breeding true to type in closed flocks, the Food Security folks would be tickled pink with all that diversity. They want a pool to draw from if needed. This is genetic diversity at the species level and has little bearing on the genetic diversity of any individual chicken or breed of chickens.

By definition, standard bred chickens have a very low amount of genetic diversity within their respective breeds because variability in phenotype is the exact opposite of the goals of standard breeding. For the standard bred enthusiast, the last thing he wants is genetic diversity in the flock as Bob points out in his article. That is not to say that one breed will not vary from the next, because obviously we know that they do, but in a standard breeding program, the goal is uniformity of type in conformance with the SOP, not "diversity."

By way of contrast, one only need look at any of the landrace breeds like Icelandics, Euskal oiloas, or Hedamoras and you see a wide range of variability within the breed. You will also see that these are not standard bred chickens. This doesn't mean that they aren't purebred, for they are, but rather that they are not bred to a standard. They have sufficient genetic variability as a result of being a landrace breed that they defy standardization.

Bottom line: genetic variability WITHIN a standard breed will tend to breed away from standard rather than toward it and is to be discouraged, according to Blosl, Roebuck, Reese, and probably a lot of others I haven't read. Genetic variability BETWEEN breeds, standard and landrace, is important to food security and is to be encouraged. This is why we try to preserve rare breeds, not because we want more variability within the breed but because we want mare variability between different breeds.

Hope that helps.
 
Bottom line: genetic variability WITHIN a standard breed will tend to breed away from standard rather than toward it and is to be discouraged, according to Blosl, Roebuck, Reese, and probably a lot of others I haven't read. Genetic variability BETWEEN breeds, standard and landrace, is important to food security and is to be encouraged. This is why we try to preserve rare breeds, not because we want more variability within the breed but because we want mare variability between different breeds.

Hope that helps.

Well, the original quote that you were disagreeing with was this: "The advantage to bringing in a different line or even a strain is that the new line or strain has a trait that you are lacking in yours so you want some boost to help you with that specific trait. This is the reason you would want to bring in a new line or strain, . . . to improve some trait that you have not been able to improve on your own. Another reason would be if your line is suffering from a genetic diversity standpoint (you'd know that by poor fertility, poor hatch rate, etc.) and you just need an infusion of some new genes."

And even though we've gone around the mulberry bush quite a bit during these last several messages, I do think I have proven, with my two examples, that longtime, established breeders can and do, from time to time, bring in a different line or strain, to do, among other things, improve fertility. Which was what Chris said in his original post. So I do think his statement has been proved to be correct.

You are, of course, free to breed your birds as you see fit, and if keeping a closed flock works for you, more power to you! But that doesn't mean that those who do bring in other strains or lines of strains are doing something wrong when they do so.

Mind you, I'd never bring certain lines of Buckeyes into my flock, as by this time, they've gone way to far in another direction, and would throw the fragile mobile that is my genetic pool quite out of whack.

Which is why I always encourage people to find out what strain/line of birds they are buying when they consider adding more birds to their flocks. Bringing in a compatible strain/line is very, very important. There are some, even among Buckeyes, that at this point (due to changes that have been made), will not nic well at all, basic Urch roots nothwithstanding.
 
Last edited:
And even though we've gone around the mulberry bush quite a bit during these last several messages, I do think I have proven, with my two examples, that longtime, established breeders can and do, from time to time, bring in a different line or strain, to do, among other things, improve fertility. Which was what Chris said in his original post. So I do think his statement has been proved to be correct.

What your examples have proven is that longtime established breeders MAY introduce different lines or strains. You have not yet proven that this is advantageous. I've cited a journal article showing the actual work that was done on fertility and inbreeding. You've supplied an anecdote and I've supplied data.

And once again, from our dear friend Bob Blosl's site on "Why People Fail with Rhode Island Reds In America" (emphasis mine)

The Desire to Cross Strains: When I first wanted Rhode Island Reds in the early 1960s as a boy I saw a Rhode Island Red Cockerel that was Grand Champion of the show and a Pullet that was Reserve of breed who where owned by two different breeders. Neither one of these master breeders got their start from the same breeder and where as far apart from being related as possibly could be. Talking to another Hall of Fame Rhode Island Red Breeder Cliff Terry from Nebraska who Judged this National Meet I told Mr. Terry if you crossed that male and that female you would have champions next year. He put his hand on my shoulder and said Son it sounds logical ,but genetically you will have a nightmare of faults and defects. When you cross two different strain you are disturbing the genes pools perfected by the master breeders for maybe twenty or more years. You are money ahead to just get you a good male such as a brother of that male on Champion row, two hens that are his aunts or his mother and start your birds from just one breeder. Mr. Terry stated more people have got into Rhode Island Reds and have left than you can shake a stick at. The main reason they leave is crossing strains because they think they are going to hit the jackpot and get a winner. I told this story to Hall of Fame Bantam Breeder, R Paul Webb, a few years later when I visited his home in Oklahoma City Oklahoma. He said Cliff was right. I have made crosses to develop my Red Bantams, but it's a process of three to four generations before you introduce them into your line. If anyone crosses my strain of bantams with say some bantams from another strain they will be in for a rude awaking. It would take you 5 years to get back to where you started after you pull out all the defects in color and type.

See: http://bloslspoutlryfarm.tripod.com/id68.html for the full post and to connect with Bob's site.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom