The Duck Thread

[Sarkchick]

@[@]gander007[/@] @caesargirl. Thank you both for the quick reply. I did not fully explain- the Runner eggs are dated 2/28 thru 3/9 and the air cells on some are of good size

Pictures taken Wednesday night and Welsh eggs do not get here until Friday, then need to set 6-12 hours. I'm just not sure if I should wait to set these eggs.

Thank you again, Linda

 

[caesargirl]

@[@]gander007[/@] @caesargirl. Thank you both for the quick reply. I did not fully explain- the Runner eggs are dated 2/28 thru 3/9 and the air cells on some are of good size

Pictures taken Wednesday night and Welsh eggs do not get here until Friday, then need to set 6-12 hours. I'm just not sure if I should wait to set these eggs.

Thank you again, Linda

I hate staggered hatches (all mine end up that way!). Unfortunately the fertility dies off the longer the eggs sit. So, in this case, stagger. As it is, after 10 days your chances of fertility drop (re egg 2/28). You're got double trouble with them being shipped. It can be done though. Ready, set,hatch!

 

[Sarkchick]

I hate staggered hatches (all mine end up that way!). Unfortunately the fertility dies off the longer the eggs sit. So, in this case, stagger. As it is, after 10 days your chances of fertility drop (re egg 2/28). You're got double trouble with them being shipped. It can be done though. Ready, set,hatch!

Thank you, that was my thinking. I do have 2 bators, 1 fan that I incubate in and a still air that I hatch in. I guess I could leave the Welsh in the fan bator.
Thanks you ceasargirl, the people on BYC are always so helpful.

Linda

 

[caesargirl]

Thank you, that was my thinking. I do have 2 bators, 1 fan that I incubate in and a still air that I hatch in. I guess I could leave the Welsh in the fan bator.
Thanks you ceasargirl, the people on BYC are always so helpful.

Linda

In that case, if you trust both bators, incubate separately. You'll have a better chance.

The BYC peeps are the best!

 

[Sarkchick]

@caesargirl
Sounds good.. Thanks again, Linda

 

[MandyJ]

Duckling question. I have 9 pekin/Cayuga/blue Swedish ducklings, 2 days old. I understand I need to put brewers yeast on their food. How much? I have a feeder for chicks in with them, the kind with little holes around the bottom, do I just sprinkle it on top or mix it with their food? Ideal hatchery said to give them medicated water after 3 days the first 3 days sugar water only. The save-a-chick (from tractor supply) has niacin in it, do I discontinue the yeast when I am giving them the medicated water?

The only dry yeast I could find was Fleischmann's active dry yeast, original. Is this the same as brewer's yeast?

Also, I have one that has a little (and I mean tiny) place on the back of the neck that looks like the down is thin and the fluff is stuck together, I looked at it at it looks a little red. Should I do anything or just let it alone?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Tevyes Dad]

Duckling question. I have 9 pekin/Cayuga/blue Swedish ducklings, 2 days old. I understand I need to put brewers yeast on their food. How much? I have a feeder for chicks in with them, the kind with little holes around the bottom, do I just sprinkle it on top or mix it with their food? Ideal hatchery said to give them medicated water after 3 days the first 3 days sugar water only. The save-a-chick (from tractor supply) has niacin in it, do I discontinue the yeast when I am giving them the medicated water?

The only dry yeast I could find was Fleischmann's active dry yeast, original. Is this the same as brewer's yeast?

Also, I have one that has a little (and I mean tiny) place on the back of the neck that looks like the down is thin and the fluff is stuck together, I looked at it at it looks a little red. Should I do anything or just let it alone?

Thanks in advance!

NONONO! Do not give them active dry yeast. My understanding is both of them are strains of a single celled fungus, but the active dry yeast uses strains that are selected to produce as much carbon dioxide as possible (for rising in baking) and the brewer's yeast is selected to turn sugars into alcohol. Both do both, but it is the speed and the quantity that is important. I think the hazard is that active dry yeast will produce too much gas inside the bird and they have no way to get rid of it so the pressure could lead to complications or even death. Both yeasts will be broken down by the ducks digestive system before enough alcohol is produced for that to be an issue. I could be wrong here, but I know you are not supposed to give baking yeast to ducks. The purpose of adding it is the yeast contains a high level of niacin. If you look in the vitamin/supplements section you should be able to find it there.

BTW - good catch! This is something that is commonly confused. I hope I got you this answer in time

Edit again: I don't know anything about the back of the neck issue but if you can post a picture, there are lots of people here with hatching experience (I would guess at that age it is a hatching issue).

Editing yet again: Sorry, my critical siren went off and I wanted to get this out fast so you would get an answer, then I am going back through and rereading your post. I am putting 1T of yeast in 1C of crumble with my current brood. I know I looked it up and this should be fairly close (I did round it though so I could put a spoon in the yeast and a measuring cup in the crumble bag and when I'm a cup low I can top off the food.) In the feeder you are using, I would premix it so they don't end up with a mouthful of yeast or avoid the yeast altogether. I gave them medicated water from the get-go and no sugar water - I have in the past given sugar water to a duckling that was sluggish and it gave her the kick start she needed. I am giving a different supplement with probiotics and electrolytes that contains 25mg of niacin per gallon of water. I don't know how much niacin the save-a-chick has. I am planning on giving them the yeast until they are feathered. Niacin is a water soluble vitamin so a small overage should not be detrimental and I know a lack of it can cause serious problems. Good luck. And post pics of your babies

 

[Debs Flock]

Duckling question. I have 9 pekin/Cayuga/blue Swedish ducklings, 2 days old. I understand I need to put brewers yeast on their food. How much? I have a feeder for chicks in with them, the kind with little holes around the bottom, do I just sprinkle it on top or mix it with their food? Ideal hatchery said to give them medicated water after 3 days the first 3 days sugar water only. The save-a-chick (from tractor supply) has niacin in it, do I discontinue the yeast when I am giving them the medicated water?

The only dry yeast I could find was Fleischmann's active dry yeast, original. Is this the same as brewer's yeast?

Also, I have one that has a little (and I mean tiny) place on the back of the neck that looks like the down is thin and the fluff is stuck together, I looked at it at it looks a little red. Should I do anything or just let it alone?

Thanks in advance!

Mandy, ditto what Tevyes Dad said about adding 1 tablespoon brewers yeast to 1 cup of crumbles. It is very important that you don't use the active yeast.

One of my ducklings had a spot just like you've described. The spot healed/went away after a day or two. My theory was that she got nipped by another duckling. I'd suggest just keeping an eye on the spot. If it gets worse, rather than better, take a picture and post it here.

Congrats on your babies!!

 

[Wobbles]

I just wanted to pop in and say hello!! We just placed an order for six new babies from a farm in MN today. They will be parent hatched so we don't have an exact date but we are getting a pair of blue magpies, a pair of saxony and a pair of silver appleyards. We do not plan to keep the drakes. We already have an Ancona drake and a Rouen drake who we can't imagine parting with (so wish we could keep all of them though). We are super excited. After a rough winter and realizing we are not muscovy people we only have our 2 rouens and 2 anconas right now. Tough choice to make but it was the best for our flock. Anyway be ready for lots of new pictures soon!! Baby time is the best time of the year

Oh!! Also the two girls (little duck and Oakley) have started laying!! We get an egg every single day from both and they crack me up because they usually lay them in a hut but if one lays in a new spot the other has to put hers there too. So cute.

 

[MandyJ]

NONONO! Do not give them active dry yeast. My understanding is both of them are strains of a single celled fungus, but the active dry yeast uses strains that are selected to produce as much carbon dioxide as possible (for rising in baking) and the brewer's yeast is selected to turn sugars into alcohol. Both do both, but it is the speed and the quantity that is important. I think the hazard is that active dry yeast will produce too much gas inside the bird and they have no way to get rid of it so the pressure could lead to complications or even death. Both yeasts will be broken down by the ducks digestive system before enough alcohol is produced for that to be an issue. I could be wrong here, but I know you are not supposed to give baking yeast to ducks. The purpose of adding it is the yeast contains a high level of niacin. If you look in the vitamin/supplements section you should be able to find it there.

BTW - good catch! This is something that is commonly confused. I hope I got you this answer in time

Edit again: I don't know anything about the back of the neck issue but if you can post a picture, there are lots of people here with hatching experience (I would guess at that age it is a hatching issue).

Editing yet again: Sorry, my critical siren went off and I wanted to get this out fast so you would get an answer, then I am going back through and rereading your post. I am putting 1T of yeast in 1C of crumble with my current brood. I know I looked it up and this should be fairly close (I did round it though so I could put a spoon in the yeast and a measuring cup in the crumble bag and when I'm a cup low I can top off the food.) In the feeder you are using, I would premix it so they don't end up with a mouthful of yeast or avoid the yeast altogether. I gave them medicated water from the get-go and no sugar water - I have in the past given sugar water to a duckling that was sluggish and it gave her the kick start she needed. I am giving a different supplement with probiotics and electrolytes that contains 25mg of niacin per gallon of water. I don't know how much niacin the save-a-chick has. I am planning on giving them the yeast until they are feathered. Niacin is a water soluble vitamin so a small overage should not be detrimental and I know a lack of it can cause serious problems. Good luck. And post pics of your babies

Thanks so much for the information. I will look at the store in the supplement section.

I am thanking your "critical siren"! I haven't given them the yeast yet. The duckling with the neck issue was a duckling that I picked up for a friend. He has since picked up the duckling and taken it to his house. It didn't seem to be getting worse.

Thanks again, and again for the information. I am new at this. I haven't ever gotten ducklings this young!

M