The Duck Thread

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Ren2014 said:
That's what I feed but many folks here recommended supplementing with Niacin so I do give it in their water.  You do have to be careful though because they can get Niacin toxicity.

Here's a post from @Duck_feeder
on Niacin that is very helpful:

Niacin is a B vitamin.  See the Wikipedia entry for how it is used biologically http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Niacin


Brewer's yeast is the waste product of alcohol fermentation (usually beer) that is high in niacin (the yeast can produce niacin).  It can also refer to the concentrated yeast before it is used for fermentation.  Feed stores tend to carry the former, vitamin stores tend to carry the latter.


Research indicates that ducks are not as efficient at absorbing niacin and/or they require more than similar birds.


Niacin deficiency is believed to cause lameness in ducklings as well as other ailments in juvenile or adult ducks.  I have not seen any formal research indicating that niacin deficiency later in life can cause lameness in ducks.


Niacin supplements are not always necessary.  Whether or not it is needed depends on diet and genetics.  Like people not all ducks eat the same foods and some are more prone to vitamin deficiency problems.


Ducks that eat nothing but pellets formulated for ducks are not likely to need extra niacin unless they have a genetic predisposition towards niacin deficiency.  Ducks that eat duck pellets as well as other foods (fed to them or from free ranging), might need the extra niacin depending on what they eat.


Ducks that free range (part time or full time) are a crap shoot.  If they can catch lots of small animals like insects, worms or fish then they are not likely to need extra niacin.  If they end up eating vegetables that are low in niacin, they might need the extra niacin.


Ducks that eat almost exclusively corn almost definitely need the extra niacin.  While corn does contain niacin it is in a form that is NOT bio-available.


As far as dosages, too much can cause "flushing" in humans.  I have not been able to find any research on whether or not it ducks or other poultry can exhibit negative symptoms from high niacin dosages but it is very likely toxicity exists at very high dosages.  Niacin is water soluble so it is very difficult to overdose on it without the aid of supplements.


Because niacin is water soluble, it needs to be provided on a regular basis (assuming supplements are even needed).


Dosage is very different depending on how you give it.  If you mix it in with their food then you'd want to use a much lower dose than mixing it in their water.  The 100 mg per 1 gallon of water is a much lower dose than 50 mg mixed into their food!



As it is with people, it's much better to eat a well balanced diet than it is to rely on supplements!


The approach I take with niacin for our ducks is:

1.  Primary food is pellets (about 50% of the daily diet of our ducks)

2.  Most of their dry foods other than duck pellets (about 10% of diet) are a good source of niacin (dried peas, cat food, parrot food)

3.  We feed fresh foods everyday (about 40% of their diet) - most of which are a good source of niacin (peas, leafy veggies, sprouts)

4.  We put dry brewer's yeast (the kind from feed stores) in the feed bowl that contains their pellets and other dry foods.  It's a powder and most of it settles to the bottom of the bowl where they ignore it.
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ok so I did go and purchase brewers yeast and some cat food that contains niacin. Hopefully that will work for now! And Olaf absolutely loves ♡♡♡ the moistened cat food
 
raemcwi said:
I didn't keep them in water too long. I didn't see any internal or external pips but didn't want to risk them drowning in case I missed something. They did not sink or float too high. They seemed to float correctly, just didn't move.
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I'm not real educated on the float method but I'm pretty sure they should wobble in the water. What breed are they? Unless they're Muscovies, I would pull them at 30 days if I am not seeing any internal pips.
 
We have 5 breeds in as it was a hatchery choice order. Mallards, cayugas, buffs, crested and F/w runners




Ren2014 said:
I'm not real educated on the float method but I'm pretty sure they should wobble in the water.  What breed are they?  Unless they're Muscovies, I would pull them at 30 days if I am not seeing any internal pips.
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I saw this post, hoping someone who knows about ducks could help. My Rouen duck was attacked last night by a enormous raccoon. His back looks like hamburger, but does seem to have gotten to vital organs just feathers and skin. Nope, no bird vet out here. Not sure what to do. Sweet duck, lets you pick him up for love.
 
sdugey said:
I saw this post, hoping someone who knows about ducks could help. My Rouen duck was attacked last night by a enormous raccoon. His back looks like hamburger, but does seem to have gotten to vital organs just feathers and skin. Nope, no bird vet out here. Not sure what to do. Sweet duck, lets you pick him up for love.
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@casportpony @Amiga
 
sdugey said:
I saw this post, hoping someone who knows about ducks could help. My Rouen duck was attacked last night by a enormous raccoon. His back looks like hamburger, but does seem to have gotten to vital organs just feathers and skin. Nope, no bird vet out here. Not sure what to do. Sweet duck, lets you pick him up for love.
Click to expand...

Please post a picture if you can. How old is the duck? Rinse the area with a mild saline. Do you have Neosporin without pain relief? Any Veterycin spray?

Caesargirl tagged some people than can offer more advice. I'll tag a couple more.

@Miss Lydia
@jtn42248
 

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