The Honey Factory

[Sally PB]

Does anyone run a condensating hive?

 

[5Australorpasaures]

Does anyone run a condensating hive?

Not sure what you mean. If you're talking about the Vavaldi (moisture box} with burlap or wood chips, I don't. I think of the hive as a house with the attic area with soffit and gable venting. At most I have a 2" shim with a 3/4" round hole both ends screened over. Above this the inner cover with a piece of 2" insulating foam Hive Telescoping "roof". Haven't seen any condensation. The shim is for sugar bricks in case they run short of stores later. The sugar bricks also will absorb condensation making it easier for the bees to ingest if they would need it. For me, and it is just me, it doesn't make sense to put burlap or wood chips that will hold moisture. That being said other beekeepers have had good results using the woodchip burlap boxes. It really just comes down to what you feel confident and comfortable with. If you have someone in your area that has hives ask what has been working for them. Don't clutter you head with a hundred ideas from all over the map who's weather is way different then yours. You'll up doing this.

 

[Sally PB]

A condensating hive was discussed at our last bee meeting. This is what two people said they did, with great success.

Entrance reudcer/mouse excluder was the only opening, and the hive was tipped forward by placing a 3/4-1" shim under the back end. Any moisture that gathers will then slide to the front of the hive, not rain down on the top of any frames.

The two who said they did that said their bees came through the winters better. One guy said he did it last year, with 100% survival, the other said he'd be doing it for "a few years, averaging 75-100% survival."

The idea is that the bees, who still need water, will get it from the drops of condensation, and therefore eat honey when they need food, not just water.

 

[R2elk]

A condensating hive was discussed at our last bee meeting. This is what two people said they did, with great success.

Entrance reudcer/mouse excluder was the only opening, and the hive was tipped forward by placing a 3/4-1" shim under the back end. Any moisture that gathers will then slide to the front of the hive, not rain down on the top of any frames.

The two who said they did that said their bees came through the winters better. One guy said he did it last year, with 100% survival, the other said he'd be doing it for "a few years, averaging 75-100% survival."

The idea is that the bees, who still need water, will get it from the drops of condensation, and therefore eat honey when they need food, not just water.

When I set up a hive , I always set it so the back is slightly higher than the front so that any condensation can drain out the front. I have a mouse guard on my hives throughout the summer. In the fall I remove it to add an entrance reducer.

My research indicates that adding an insulating inner cover for the winter has been shown to be beneficial. This is the first winter that I have done so. Results TBD.

This is also the first winter that I have insulated a hive. The one is with 2" styrofoam and the other is with black twin wall.

It did get up to 55°F yesterday and the hive with the black cover was very active where before little to no activity was observed.

I will see how the hive with the 2" insulation behaves today.

 

[Sally PB]

I will see how the hive with the 2" insulation behaves today.

 

[5Australorpasaures]

A condensating hive was discussed at our last bee meeting. This is what two people said they did, with great success.

Entrance reudcer/mouse excluder was the only opening, and the hive was tipped forward by placing a 3/4-1" shim under the back end. Any moisture that gathers will then slide to the front of the hive, not rain down on the top of any frames.

The two who said they did that said their bees came through the winters better. One guy said he did it last year, with 100% survival, the other said he'd be doing it for "a few years, averaging 75-100% survival."

The idea is that the bees, who still need water, will get it from the drops of condensation, and therefore eat honey when they need food, not just water.

I forgot to mention that. Mine stay tilted all year.

 

[Apis mellifera]

So air can get into the hive but the bees can't get out.

Bees need to get out during the winter for cleansing flights. If you want the bees to stay in the hive all winter you need to put them in a climate controlled environment.

The plan is to add a syrup feeder on top of the honey super and fill it with ~6 liters of syrup. That should be enough for the winter.

Bees wont take syrup when it gets below 50 degrees. Fondant or just plain sugar will work.

 

[Apis mellifera]

Does anyone run a condensating hive?

I do, kinda. The idea is to keep the area above the cluster above the dew point so when water collects on the inner cover it can run to the sides and freeze or the bees can use it. All you have to do is add rigid insulation above or below the outer cover. I like putting insulation on top of the outer cover year round, either way works. I have both insulated hives (Paradise/Bee Box) and mostly wooden hives. The reason why bees survive the winter isn't just because of insulation, some hives I dont insulate and they do great, its mite and viral load. No matter how much you feed and insulate an unhealthy colony of winter bees they will not make it. A healthy colony can maintain the cluster with no problem in a variety of configurations. If you had a mite count of 5 or more out of 300 bees in July and didnt follow up the winter survival rate decreases by 50% or more.

 

[Sally PB]

There was a guy at the bee club that said he treated his hives with oxalic acid every October, November, and December, regardless of mite count. I think he said he didn't even check, just assumed there would be some mites.

 

[Apis mellifera]

There was a guy at the bee club that said he treated his hives with oxalic acid every October, November, and December, regardless of mite count. I think he said he didn't even check, just assumed there would be some mites.

If its working for him thats good! And he's right, there are always some mites in the hive. I treat with OAD between Christmas and New Years when capped brood is at its lowest or possibly no capped brood. While I cant breed a mite and disease resistant bee in my backyard I can at least try by keeping track of which hives have lower numbers to raise queens from. Typically you need a low count before August.