Personally, I think the pipping on the wrong end is a humidity issue. My last hatch didn't have so many pip at the wrong end and I kept my humidity lower than I usually do. All of my legbar eggs even hatched last time. 

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I think I will be done on Friday or Saturday. This hatch was a little crazy, I had 6 eggs pip on the wrong side. I understand about the shipped eggs with wonky air cells but 2 of the wrong pips were Legbar eggs. I rescued one Legbar yesterday and the 2nd one is still working on it but seems stuck.
Would any temp variation cause bad pips? I know between Day 17 and 20, their temp fell to 97 degrees because of a cheap hatcher and then I had to move them back to the incubator on Day 20. Thanks to that, some of my eggs hatched on Day 22 and 1 on Day 23.
I put them in the hatcher on Day 18. For the first 17 days humidity was 40% or less sometimes even down to 30% but in the hatcher it was 70-75%. I did not have any issues last time with something similar. I think it might be the turner. Last time I used a Brinsea that does tilting versus this time the incubator had a rotational turner. Plus with the Brinsea humidity pump, the humidity levels were pretty steady as well, not so much up and down.What day are you putting them in the hatcher? I had one egg pip on the side that I felt that I put it in the hatcher too early and the chick couldn't position itself because it was stuck to the side. Lately I've been letting the eggs pip while still in the egg turner and then moving them to the hatcher, and that doesn't seem to cause any problems, if anything they have been hatching better. I also know that I have humidity issues with my hatcher, I am currently in the process of building a new incubator / hatcher out of a commercial glass door refrigerator.
The 1st generation will lay blue eggs but if your cross them together, 25% of F2 will lay white eggs and the white egg gene will be hard to get rid off. Thats because 2 blue genes and single blue gene do not have any effect on egg color.Here are my pullets that are from myour Cream Legbar × White Leghorn (heritage source not hatchery) The pullets were easily distinguishable once feathered. The roos had well developed combs and the pullets had crests. Anxious to see what eggs are like. In the UK they call this cross Sapphire.
The goal is a prolific blue egg layer.
Thats because 2 blue genes and single blue gene do not have any effect on egg color.
The 1st generation will lay blue eggs but if your cross them together, 25% of F2 will lay white eggs and the white egg gene will be hard to get rid off. Thats because 2 blue genes and single blue gene do not have any effect on egg color.
If you are ok with getting quarter of the eggs white, or do a trial and error for many generations to eliminate the white genes, then go for it.
Good luck!
I
CCLs already have two blue genes and the color is not dark blue. Some genetic expert can tell what other factors/genes are involved in imparted a darker blue color but certainly not the blue gene in CCLs.That may not be true. It is possible that single Blue may give a lighter blue color while double gives a richer darker blue.
Yes, that will produce all blue layers from the cross, however, the probability of non-white chicks will increase from 25% to 50%. But at least the white chicks from that cross will have lesser probability of laying white eggs in the future generation.Great information. I probably could be happy with just producing 1st Gen layers like sex links.
What if the 1st Gen is bred back to a CL roo?
Nice! I have a couple of Leghorns I am growing for just this reason!Here are my pullets that are from myour Cream Legbar × White Leghorn (heritage source not hatchery) The pullets were easily distinguishable once feathered. The roos had well developed combs and the pullets had crests. Anxious to see what eggs are like. In the UK they call this cross Sapphire.
The goal is a prolific blue egg layer.