The Natural Chicken Keeping thread - OTs welcome!

First - I want to say that is one of the nicest looking coops! I really like the "look" of it!! What is over the top of it? Looks like a deck?
Our house is built on a 25 degree slope....that's the bridge to our front door so you don't have to go down a bunch of outside steps to get to it.

I would DEFINITELY try that with your coop. A couple questions and notes..

-Inside top - is there open ventilation overhead? (I know you mentioned the vent at the gable end..but I was looking up into the peak where the hardware cloth wire is.)
I put a vent in each end, above the girls head when on roost.
If you look at the inside picture, notice the new plywood on the ceiling? That's because the kennel had 2 inch gaps where the roof met the walls so I put plywood along there so the air would, if it blew hard enough, come in over their heads while on the roost. I don't know if there is any air movement there because the plywood is 2 feet wide. I suppose a strong wind would force air up there.

-Where is the door that you enter? Is that it to the left of the fresh eggs window?
Actually, all those windows are in an opening door. Since I can't get in there, I made the whole thing open up to clean. But the "Fresh Egg" door is the one we open a lot, to get eggs, feed etc.
In the book, some of the original fresh air designs have a roof sloping down from front to back so that the back of the coop was shorter than the front. Kind of like sawing a house in half - at the peak, and having the roof slope down from the front to back (On the 6x10 woods model it is 4ft 7in tall at the back of the house and 6 ft. tall at the front peak.) The slope is all part of the design and ventilation style. BUT NOT ALL OF THEM. The "Tolman House" is a case in point in which the front is situated like yours is with a regular roof. And there are other models that don't have the slope like that either.

Now a good part of the book is showing some pretty large houses. But there is a section on "Small Flock" houses (they call backyard "back lot") that shows various small houses and a woods style that is 6ft w x 10 ft deep. They range all the way down to some very small houses in various styles. For some of the particular floor plans they are definitely best and tested at the dimensions given, but there a lot of variations on the smaller houses all the way down to very small broody houses.

So...I'd sure try it with what you have there. Everything is aligned right (even though it isn't the Woods style) (as opposed to my hen house that is totally unsuited in almost every way imaginable.)

You can test it out and see how it's working and let us know. I'd be very interested to see how it works out. I like the clear vinyl to keep the light coming in and to maybe act as passive solar too. You can go in there yourself and see what the air flow is like once you get everything covered up...check and see if it feels like a wind blowing back there in the roost area or if it feels relatively protected. It sure wouldn't hurt to try it out and if it doesn't work well all you've lost is a little time in strategically closing the sides and vent while leaving the fresh eggs window open.
How would I test it out? If my chickens don't freeze to death then it works?
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Yes, the clear vinyl is awesome. Stumbled across it at a hardware store. Really thick and almost as clear as glass. Never seen anything like it!
JackE (the guy whose house is pictured in the post by AFL) has a thread on byc about his Woods style and built it using the plans in this book. He's very versed on that particular style. He may also have some good input on the other styles as well but not sure as I know he particularly studied the Woods style and built it specifically.
 
I just got over here, and I'm reading some of the posts to get caught up.

So basically, Scott wants to open up the end of his kennel/coop to get better fresh air exchange. From what I can see, that should not be a problem. It looks like the coop is in a somewhat sheltered spot. And if he closes off that eave vent at the roost end, should be draft free. Sorry if I missed it, but how many birds in there?, Whats the dimensions of coop?
Thanks, Jack. Here's what he said:

coop is 8 feet deep
the roost is approximately 6 feet back from the pop door
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Didn't get how many chickens, Scott?

The kennel, err, coop is 8 feet deep and the roost is already at the far end from that window. This shot is taken through that end window.







So just guessing, as the girls are in bed right now, the roost is approximately 6 feet back from the pop door. The roost is to the right of the right window in the above picture. Whatcha think?
 
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I wonder if I could look at those set ups and get my coop to have the same features as the open air? The prevailing winds really throw me since they seem to change often.

Jack how many feet do you need from open front to roost.


Oh and on an other note did you know you can loose a chicken on the roost? Went in earlier to count heads & Edie was missing. She was sandwiched between Stella & Sophie. Apparently she has figured out to stay toasty at night requires her to get between the two fluffier girls......she was not impressed I came over and scooted them out of the way when I saw her white head peak out :)
 
I have one of those systems where you can put the thermometer where you want it and it transmits the temp to the screen into the house, and I love that! I'm currently only using one thermometer though, outside the coop. I was just about to set up one in the coop and in our greenhouse, but someone asked to borrow my extra thermometers. It's neat because the memory saves the high & low temp. of the day and tells you what time. It's really awesome to use in the greenhouse because then I don't have to walk all the way out there to check the temp to see if I need to open the vents! The only issue is our coops & greenhouse seem to be right on the edge of the range for it so it will go out every once in a while.
I love those thermometers! I wish I could use them in my coop, but it's too far away from my house. I guess I could just leave both parts in the coop and I would be able to tell the highs and lows. I was curious to see what the temp difference would be inside & outside the coop, since the sun doesn't get into the coop even with the windows uncovered, so all the heat would be from the chickens.

Chias if your are going to set in on insulation make sure the chicken can't get to it. They will eat it!! When I made my insulated box I covered the foam since the little snots will always find the spot it wasn't covered
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Oh, good idea! I forgot about that! Maybe I'll make a wooden box lined with rigid foam insulation in just the right dimensions to hold the food pans. Water is a little more difficult since I have it in a round pan!

Okay. Fresh air coops and Ventilation:

There are different styles of fresh air coops. The one shown above is the "Woods Style". In the winter the ONLY thing that is left open is the front side. ALL OTHER WINDOWS ARE CLOSED. This provides the situation that (was it Scott?) referred to in which a pocket of air remains near the front but there is no draft because there's nowhere for it to go. These coops are faced AWAY from prevailing winds. You'll also notice on this WOODS STYLE that the pop door is near the front. It it were placed further back it would "undo" the "no draft" status so it needs to be placed where it is on this coop or on the front. On this particular style the other windows - on sides and in the monitor top, are opened up in the summertime only.

There are other fresh air style coops that don't have the monitor top but the idea is the same. They are all based on some specific depth to width ratios that create that air pocket near the front; roosts are placed in the back wall farthest away from the open fronts. Again, no drafts.
I think I may be out of luck on this one. My pop door is right under the roost, and my coop is exactly square, which probably isn't the right depth to width ratio.

So what to do, what to do? For tonight, I opened the line of windows all along the top of the wall opposite the roost, plus cracked open the storm door window at the bottom (about 4") to allow for air flow from the bottom to the top of the coop. I still have the slanted windows farthest from the roost open too, as well as the little triangle windows at the tops of the front & back walls. Too much? I know, hard to visualize without a picture. I'll try to get one tomorrow.

I think they'll be OK tonight anyway, because there's really no wind to speak of. But I want to get this figured out before a windy night happens!
From the outside....


Scott, I love your coop! The colors go really well together, and the coop is really cute.
 
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Oh and on an other note did you know you can loose a chicken on the roost? Went in earlier to count heads & Edie was missing. She was sandwiched between Stella & Sophie. Apparently she has figured out to stay toasty at night requires her to get between the two fluffier girls......she was not impressed I came over and scooted them out of the way when I saw her white head peak out
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Yea, my wife said the dog doesn't use the kennel anymore (he got a doggie door), that would make a good chicken coop. So, a lot of research and about $300 of materials, it was. Then she said OMG we're getting chickens? I said, yep. Wyandottes cause they're cold hardy and pretty to boot.

I'm glad your dog got a doggie door. He must be very happy about that! How does he do around the chickens?

So does your wife love the chickens?
 
Just got back in from searching everywhere for two Black Amerecauna hens. :( I hope they just got lost. There are no holes in the fences so it wasn't the bears or a dog, no feathers and the rest are acting pretty normal. That brings me down to 4 Amerecauna hens. Bah!

Any ideas on what predator can take a full grown bird within a five foot fence that can't be climbed with leaving a trace?

We do not have foxes, coyote, bobcat, lynx, skunk or possum here and the ravens ran the hawks off long ago.
 

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