What the heck? Why such high Octane? Here they say to use the lowest that doesn't produce an engine ping and for the vast majority of vehicles, that is 87.
Just gassed up the truck @ 1.62 for regular el'cheapo gas... 85 octane, 10% ethanol. Milk here is $1.99/gal and multiple chain stores compete at that price weekly. Actually got 2 gals at $1.92 per last week @ wally world.
rant time:
Truck on grace period for registration (can go 30 days or 1 month past due month) but it required an emission test first (due every 2 years). Last year made it law that can't pass with check engine light onYesterday spent ~ $800 to get check engine light issues cleared then went for emissions. Since they had reset all codes and new ones hadn't re-established was told I had to drive... a LOT... to get them balanced and re-established. So, drove ~150 miles to try to get them to reset/establish, went back late today, one code still hadn't established & it failed the test for catalytic converter.
no check engine light before emissions test, HAD check engine light after test.
Got to dealership @4:30 this afternoon (fast as I could w/traffic) to see can I get this done tomorrow so can get emissions and registered by last day of grace period (tomorrow). Cat is gonna cost ~$1,485.00 P&L (like only $165 of that is labor!!)and can't be done till Monday soonest as they don't have one in stock and need to "order it shipped" which won't get it there till late tomorrow or Monday.
Asked where are they ordering from... Denver... 25 miles away (almost 1/2 way across the country aye?!)!!Offered to drive down and get it myself. Can't as it's in their warehouse.
As an aside, the check airbags light has been on for several years. They want almost $200 just to check to see what the issue is (after that, cheapest fix is over a grand). I asked is there any possibility of it firing off on it's own for no reason. They said no. I said no to getting it analyzed and fixed. As long as I'm not going to get punched in the face while driving 70 MPH down the highway, it can stay broke.
Have had a coolant leak (external) in this truck for almost 7 years. Have never been able to find it. Multiple trips to dealership over those years and they haven't been able to find it. I don't sweat it and just spend $6 on a gallon of replacement antifreeze every 6 months or so as needed. In winter I can tell when it needs filling as there'll be no heat/defrost. So as part of the repair check yesterday, they informed me my water pump is leaking and that will be almost $900 to fix... No thanks... let 'er drip. That will buy a lot of replacement antifreeze.
So after they replace the cat converter, they'll have to reset codes again, which means another tank of gas to get the d@mned codes to re-establish before I can do the emissions test again. I have 10 days in which to get this all accomplished or I have to pay for the test a second time. I'm already going to blow past the grace period for registration, so there'll be an additional "penalty tax" for that. It's been one heck of an expensive 2016 so farMight have been cheaper to just trade this in and buy a new one.... or just drive the thing unregistered.
Boy it sure does seem like you are past the "cheaper to fix than replace" point.
Laws change Deb!
Here they can't pass inspection if any warning lights are on. We have both summer and winter tires on rims for our 2 cars and I swap the tires at my convenience. Given the pressure monitor sensors are over $100/tire (and you have to take the car to Toyota to have the car recognize them) the winter tires don't have them. Let's say some "special actions" are needed to have that light off in the winter for inspection. For some reason the inspection periods are ONLY even numbered months so I'm planning to "push" my cars to the March-April inspection so the summer tires will be on when the inspection is done. Next car is due end of Feb, it will happen March 1st. Local car guy is only 1 mile away
I happen to think that the pressure monitor requirement is a bit bogus. You might damage a tire if they are low but they won't blow you off the road. If you have a big leak, you know it just driving the car. If you have a "catastrophic" leak, the light won't help because it won't go on until the tire is rapidly going flat and you are going off the road.
AND then there are "fog lights". The lenses on my spouse's car were cracked so I got 2 online (way cheaper that the Toyota dealer of course) to replace them. OF COURSE I dropped one on the concrete floor and OF COURSE it landed glass side down. I put the other one in and took the car for inspection. Oh no, if the car has fog lights they both have to be present and they BOTH have to work or NEITHER of them can be there. So it was OK for me to take the car home, remove the working one and have it inspected with no fog lights and nothing covering the openings in the grill, loose connectors visible. I put the good one back in and put a baggie around the connector for the other until I could get a replacement for the replacement.
