The road less traveled...back to good health! They have lice, mites, scale mites, worms, anemia, gl

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This is my first winter with the hoop coop and so far it's as snug as my old wooden coops at this time of year and even seems to be a little more so because it's smaller than my usual coops are...even has less head room, so it seems to keep warmer.  I don't know that I like it better than a wooden coop...those are so easy to convert to winter use but don't have quite enough airflow in the summer like this hoop coop.  With summer temps getting hotter and hotter with this global warming trend, I count the summer air and shade a little more valuable at this point. 

I leave mine outside and they can use it or not.  I'm sure some of the alkalinity leaches out when it rains but not enough to render it the same as the surrounding dust.  In the winter they dust in their deep litter and it will be even better for them this year with the soil floors.  By mid-winter I'm sure they will have a "favorite" dusting spot in one place in the coop and I may lace just that spot with a little of the ashes just for kicks and giggles.  Maybe not..but I may. 
I'll tell you another good drawing agent that we have found....NuStock!  The Bat placed some on one of her skin tears to see if it would help it heal faster and by the next day it had drawn out the infection so that it could be squeezed out and it did it the next day also.  That place healed so much quicker and more smoothly than did the rest of her skin tears.  I think the pine tar is supposed to be a great drawing salve..so that might be the ingredient that works so well.  She gets skin tears so easily at her age and because she is always out working..carrying firewood, stacking brush, weedeating and such.  She's not a rocking chair kind of old lady....  :p

If you've examined her and she doesn't limp, I'd say it's just her "way".  Some chickens develop habits that are different from others and you will soon see these in your flocks the longer you keep chickens..some are just quirky.  Keep an eye on it and see if anything develops but it sounds like a habit. 
That is one beautiful turkey!  I love his coloring! 



This one sounds like she really needs help with one on one training to "leave it".  I'd do some really good leash training with her now, when she is small....much too difficult when she gets her full size.  This breed is really food motivated so let that be an easy training tool and really work with her on her attention towards things you'd rather her ignore..don't wait until she is fixated on it to correct.  Immediately you see her turning her head to gaze at the rabbit, give a correction and reward when she complies. 

Tearing up things is the sign of a bored young dog...time to give her a job.  I'd walk with her several times a day around the boundary of your place until she knows it like the back of her paw, I'd train her to sit and stay...for longer periods each time and give rewards when she is patient and does well.  I'd get her a backpack and put weights in it...give rewards each time it is applied and each time it is removed.  I'd put her through her training paces as often as you can...she will grow used to obeying your commands, she will feel useful, she will start to key in on your wants before you speak them. 

Everyone thinks that GPs don't need training, but if they are to live close to your small livestock and inside the farm yard they need basic commands, socialization and boundaries.  This is a breed that wanders...a lot!  They need good boundary training and good response time when you give a command.  This is a difficult time because she is a puppy and doesn't have a companion to rowdy and play with of her size and activity level.  That is why so many people get these dogs in pairs...they really work and live better with a companion dog to spell them while they are on guard and to keep them exercised by "dog play". 

My Lucy did so much better in her activity levels after I got her the younger dog, Jake, to keep her active.  She stayed active and fit a lot longer, I believe, because he forced her to play, wrestle and move when she would have rather snoozed in the sun.  They don't get much guarding to do when they work up close to the farmyard until it gets night time or if there are a lot of daytime predators and stray dogs in your area. 

It's a great breed if you are patient and put in the wrench time when they are in the puppy stages...I LOVE GPs..one of the sweetest breeds out there, but noble and courageous when needed. 

Here's a Cesar Milan episode that has a little bit about training a dog on small livestock but I think he has others that are specific to rabbits:

http://www.free-tv-video-online.me/player/gorillavid.php?id=7m9pmkl17wcx
Thank you so much! This really helped. The video and your advice. I definitely think we need to work more on getting her to learn basic commands, and were rewarding her with attention, and not treats. Attention worked very well when training my corgi, and he is the perfect dog in every way. If I could take him, and clone him into a huge dog to guard them, I would do it in a second. Than again, he had troubles as a puppy with chewing and running, but not anymore.

Definitely need to work on things, and we both watched that video and are setting up a schedule for serious training. And you're right, everyone says not to train them. So glad I have you to explain it in better detail. Also was told not to interact with her much, and did try that - but it was awful, and we were all miserable.
 
What beautiful birds and I love the pictures. My eye candy shot for the day. :love



They are gorgeous. 



They sure are!  And those furry things in the bottom pic are kinda...well...they are certainly interesting, bless their little hearts!  :D

 
Thanks guys! And Bee - Polish - or at least this one - was awful in the winter. Can you just hear her whining about it? :lol:

She's long gone now, but if I see any not taking the winter well, they will be culled. The winter is cold here, and I can't have chickens who can't handle that, because I am never going to heat that barn. Fact.
 
Thank you so much! This really helped. The video and your advice. I definitely think we need to work more on getting her to learn basic commands, and were rewarding her with attention, and not treats. Attention worked very well when training my corgi, and he is the perfect dog in every way. If I could take him, and clone him into a huge dog to guard them, I would do it in a second. Than again, he had troubles as a puppy with chewing and running, but not anymore.
Definitely need to work on things, and we both watched that video and are setting up a schedule for serious training. And you're right, everyone says not to train them. So glad I have you to explain it in better detail. Also was told not to interact with her much, and did try that - but it was awful, and we were all miserable.

I know people say that about GPs but they fail to realize that people are utilizing these dogs in a different capacity now than previously. When they are used out on pasture, the need for them to bond to the herd is important. Now, though, people are using these dogs to guard smaller livestock right close to the where the people are living...this means these dogs not only need to bond to the chickens but also to the other creatures and humans within their boundary.

One cannot have a 110 lb dog jumping up on visitors or crashing into small children...the need to socialize these dogs while still giving them the tools they need to bond to the animals they guard as well is important. This means they need to be outside all night, away from the human family so that they can guard the territory and boundaries in which their flocks reside. That dual life can be accomplished by this sweet breed with some ease if done properly..if they have the proper guidance.

I'll be excited to hear how it all plays out with your beautiful dog!
 
I know people say that about GPs but they fail to realize that people are utilizing these dogs in a different capacity now than previously.  When they are used out on pasture, the need for them to bond to the herd is important.  Now, though, people are using these dogs to guard smaller livestock right close to the where the people are living...this means these dogs not only need to bond to the chickens but also to the other creatures and humans within their boundary. 

One cannot have a 110 lb dog jumping up on visitors or crashing into small children...the need to socialize these dogs while still giving them the tools they need to bond to the animals they guard as well is important.  This means they need to be outside all night, away from the human family so that they can guard the territory and boundaries in which their flocks reside.  That dual life can be accomplished by this sweet breed with some ease if done properly..if they have the proper guidance. 

I'll be excited to hear how it all plays out with your beautiful dog! 
Thank you so much :D

Yes, watching Clem going full speed towards my fiance's 90 year old grandmother is a very scary thing...

She is really good with new people if she sees us with them, and if we introduce them to her. She barks a mean bark when we aren't there to introduce them.

I need to work on my energy for sure. I get very anxious when I am alone with her and the birds. I am bad at reacting quickly, so my fiance does most of the handling. I hurt my shoulder lifting feed, and it doesn't help when she pulls so darn hard when I try to walk the boundary line with her. She was so good tonight though. We are moving her into the barn for the winter with the birds at night. She's getting run of the biggest part of the barn. I want her to be able to see everyone at all times. During the days, it's electric fence (once she is properly trained to it of course). We have been reading up how to train them to it, and batteries are ordered.
 
That depends on how invasive you want to get. If you want to do something quickly and want to get deeply into this treatment, you can core that sore out, treat it with an antibiotic and apply an occlusive dressing to keep out the dirt.

Or..you can soak it in epsom salts and warm water, apply NuStock and bag balm and let 'er go and watch her progress.

What treatment option do you feel is best? Can you post some pics of her foot? You know I'll want a before and after...
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Yes mam. I have been applying NS. Her feet look like big pimples. I don't wanna operate yet but I'm concerned about little baby she is a sweet heart. I'm concerned. I'll try epson salt next. I hate her being in pain. We can't communicateLOL but again I just want to help her.
 
Just added a little advertising to my signature...It really is a great website, and I'll be on there anytime I need to check on things we've already discussed here.
 
Yes mam. I have been applying NS. Her feet look like big pimples. I don't wanna operate yet but I'm concerned about little baby she is a sweet heart. I'm concerned. I'll try epson salt next. I hate her being in pain. We can't communicateLOL but again I just want to help her.

You know what that means, then....time to get out the box cutter for some surgery. Try the epsom and see if it helps but if they are so inflamed that they look like pimples, the core will have to come out or the bird's own immune system will have to defeat that infection. The macrophages can actually eat that core of infection with time, so it isn't imperative that it MUST come out but if it's that tender and you want to make it happen faster, that core will have to be carved out.

If you want to core those out, find the darkest part of the "pimple" under which you will find the core or cone of white material at the center of this infection. I'd wash the feet with betadine, if you have it, a 10% bleach solution if you don't. A fresh box cutter blade is just the right size and shape for the job if you do not have a scalpel blade.

Wrap the bird in a towel, covering her head but not occluding her air flow. If you have any muscle rub that isn't greasy in nature, it will go a long way to desensitizing the area so that the pain is not felt quite so acutely. Something like Biofreeze or the generic thereof will work...Dollar General sells a cheap version that is around $2~blue, gel-like in consistency.

Core the middle out of that infection much like you would cut a worm hole out of an apple. Once you get that white cone-like center out of the wound, cleanse it well and apply a simple antibiotic ointment. At this point you may want to wrap those feet to keep out any debris or manure for a couple of days until the wound bed seals itself a little. There is a type of wrap that is stretchy and clings to itself that is sold at most any drug store...this is handy for these types of dressings.

Looks like this but can be gotten much cheaper at dollar stores or drug stores:

http://www.amazon.com/Coach-Self-ad...2862275&sr=1-1&keywords=self+adhesive+bandage
 
I'm asking because my son has a recurring "boil" on the back of his neck, just below the hairline. It gets smaller during winter months, but really flames up during the summer. He went to the doc last year, hoping to get it lanced but they wouldn't. It looks like a big, nasty pimple!! Before he moved out, I would occassionally put a wet bathcloth with some epsom salts on it. He never liked that, and I don't think he does that now. Just wondering if the emu oil would help!! Couldn't hurt to try!!
have you tried tea tree oil? I don't know how sensitive his skin is, but if that were on one of us, I would be using straight pure tea tree oil. None of us are sensitive to it, and it works like a charm for everything lavender oil doesn't cure.
If you choose this route, test for skin sensitivity in an unaffected area a day or 2 before trying it on the boil.
Just throwing that out there.

The only real medicines in my cupboard are tea tree oil, lavernder oil, neosporin and peroxide. Everything else is in a jar, still an herb. I tincture, infuse, capsule, and decoct all of our medicines and grow most of the herb stock. The exotic stuff comes from my local herb store.
 
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