The search for good meat rabbits

[BantyHugger]

Thanks guys! I'm going to pick up a pair of Cali does in about 2 weeks. We're going down to an auction a few miles away. My friend has kindly agreed to let me use his buck. I also found 2 rabbits free. 1 is a nz the other is another cali doe. One was an easter present the other is from some one who over bred and can't handle that many rabbits. Should i get these and save gas? (not sure on the nz sex)
First To Hatch thanks a lot. I'll probably ask you for that fat adding thing after our first successful litter.

 

[MissPrissy]

Make sure you have plenty of pens. You will want to separate them out and keep them that way. Bucks will fight one another. Does, especially bred does, need their own pens and pens large enough for a nest box when they kindle.

One of my californians kindled 10 days ago. I am tickled pink with the choice I made.

As for meat. I am told the californians have a far finer bone so more meat and with the right breeding stock the meat should be more like white meat than dark red meat. We haven't harvest any rabbits yet as I am just now building my herd.

 

[FarmGirl01]

Here is a pic of my setup. I really like this system. The cages are havahart cages. They are the larger sized ones. The feeders are mounted on the outside. They are easy to fill. I use various crocks for the water bowls.
Since the cages are all wire there is not any wood. The wood would rot and hold oders. The cages are hanging from the rafters in the barn. Mounting them this way also helps in the air flow. The rabbits stay cooler in the summer. Every few months the litter from under the cages is picked up and taken to the garden. I did this today.

The breed of rabbit I use is a cross. I usually breed back to a Rex rabbit. I don't like to use the larger meat rabbits. The crosses work well for me.

 

[MissPrissy]

How are you hanging them from the rafters? Are the cages wired to the side of the barn? I am trying to get a better set up for myself. If they are just hanging from the rafters do they swing? Sorry if my questions seem dumb. I am not a builder.

Can you show up close photos of the set up of the cages?

 

[BantyHugger]

I second miss priss's questions! Right now i have about 4 hutches under construction. I bought 2 from TSC and i'm modeling from their design. They are going to circle my garden so i can just rake the poo in when i'm done. However we do have an extra shed that i may have to move them to if they can't handle the weather.

 

[MissPrissy]

I can tell you now they won't be able to handle open weather. They need a shelter. They need good air flow. Meat rabbits can't take the heat very well in summer they need good shade and lots of cold water. They can die super fast on a hot day. They don't like to be wet either. They will thrive in the colder temps of winter. Californains are said to be good without any heat source at all for 20 below.

 

[Beekissed]

We had a similar setup to the one in the above pic. We had water bottles that attached to the outside of the cages but later went with a gravity fed line waterer.

I don't know if anyone answered your cage question yet, but you need to have plenty of cages. When you separate the weaned kits from the does you will need to have cages large enough to keep your meat rabbits until butchering size. You can mix the kits from both does as they usually won't fight at that age. We had large finishing pens for our weanlings. These were designed from opening doors between regular size cages that can be closed later if you want to return them to individual units. You will need several feeders and waterers for those, as you don't want too much competition for food and water. Since ours were 4-H rabbits we put food in one end and the water in the other, so they would have to get some exercise and build muscle instead of fat. If you don't get large cages, then the regular size will do for up to 3 weanlings. A market pen consist of 3, so that is how we separated ours. They won't fight at that age if they are used to being together. Butcher weight is usually 3 to 6 lbs, if you want them to be tender. You also need extra cages for any animal that needs to be separated for some reason or for transporting them.

 

[First To Hatch]

In winter keep em safe from cold drafts in summer freeze up a cple 2 liter bottles of soda with water in em and put em in the rabbits cage when it gets to hot, the best cage is the all wire cage, i havent really built one but they say it works and every1 uses it you can prolly find out how to make it on the net i have it in a book bout building housing.

 

[FarmGirl01]

The wire is looped over the rafters than attached. There are small boards in the cages that are attached to the boards in the back. That keeps the cages from swinging, It also gives the rabbits something to chew on. I will replace them as needed.
I can put a heat lamp on top of the cages if I have a litter in the cold weather.
I will take pics in a minute.

 

[FarmGirl01]

This shows the boards that are holding the cages to the back of the barn. This keeps the cages from swinging. Just to let you know, she is a young English Spot. Very nice girl. Its a large pic to show better. You can see how the feeders are on the outside of the cage.