They die at day 18 everytime!

[rizq]

Quote:
Me too, interesting question!

 

[walkswithdog]

I dry hatch. My humidity is never over 70, though it will go up if a bunch start pipping and zipping together. With my ventilation rate it tends to go back into that range after awhile of chicks drying.

I think too high humidity and poor ventilation in my first bator is what was harming my first hatches.

 

[AHappychick]

Quote:
well you would have to add the water without opening the bator not sure how that would work out

 

[rizq]

In my styro bator I always used a straw and syringe to add water through the vent holes anyway, regardless of stage of incubation. I rarely opened my bator.

 

[Wynette]

I have a Brinsea, and that's what I do, too. Just add water through a straw stuck through the vent hole. So, adding water upon the first pip would be easy.

I may try that next time; wait to see the first pip, then add water.

 

[rizq]

I might try it as well. Going to have to do some more research on that one

I have a Brinsea coming today. I was hoping it would have adequate holes for adding water. I am glad you mentioned it

 

[Dirt Road]

Quote:
Wynette:
This is something else that is covered in the book I mentioned. Theory is, it is easier for the chick to internally pip at LOWER humidity, the dryer membrane will rupture rather than just stretch, then if humidity is raised to soften the shell it will ease the rest of the hatching process. Bear in mind that with parrots, some individual chicks can represent hundreds or even thousands of dollars, so getting each one out alive becomes a very big issue. With chicken eggs, usually being set in greater numbers at a time, following your suggestion of raising the humidity only after the first one pips will approximate the method used with individual eggs. I hope I am making sense with my explanation. I probably ought to pull the book out and re-read it since it has been quite a while. Hope that answers your question.

Jim

 

[walkswithdog]

Well, since the first chick or chicks pipping and hatching do boost humidity levels under a hen, or in a bator - in a way that is what happens in a dry hatch if you do nothing about adding water later. Which is probably why it's been working for me - if I look at it from that perspective.

 

[Wynette]

Jim, that makes so much sense. I actually have even wondered about the actual zip process, when folks talk of the membrane drying out and making it more difficult for them to zip. In my mind (which....well, we won't even go there), it seems that if the membrane is dry, it would "rip" rather than "stretch" as you mention, and that would make it easier (if it ripped rather than stretched) for them to zip and hatch.

Let me know what the book says if you find other pertinent info. THanks!

 

[rizq]

Quote:
Unless the membrane dries to the chick and they get stuck. I seem to have problems with clinging membranes even at 65-70% humidity. My chicks do not dry nice and fluffy like I think they should. I often have to clean bits of stuck goo and membrane off of them. I know I need to try something different. Though, as I mentioned, I am getting a new bator and have also ordered a new (non digital and adjustable) hygrometer because I am not sure I trust the Walmart ones, so maybe that alone will solve my problem