They have worms

[MrPaw]

The only thing I give mine on a monthly basis is hydrogen dioxide.
Matter of fact, I keep hydrogen dioxide out all the time so they can have as much of it as they feel they need. Sorta like free choice OS, but much more important.

Color me stupid (I'm used to it) but what is "hydrogen dioxide". I tried looking it up but couldn't find a satisfactory answer for this poor old brain. Is it stale hydrogen peroxide?

 

[Trevorusn]

Color me stupid (I'm used to it) but what is "hydrogen dioxide". I tried looking it up but couldn't find a satisfactory answer for this poor old brain. Is it stale hydrogen peroxide?

Lol it's H2O. Plain ol water.

 

[Trevorusn]

Egg withdrawal times are generally 14 days after the last dosing. However Valbazen is a benzimidazole. Benzimidazoles dont stay in their system that long, most of it has been passed through their system and excreted in about 5-6 days altogether. You'll want to redose your birds in 10-14 days to kill larva hatched from eggs missed by the initial dosing.
Dose each bird orally one at a time using a syringe without a needle. Valbazen dosage is 1/2cc given orally. Then repeat again in 10-14 days.
I also use Pyrantel Pamoate aka Nemex 2 at 4.54mg/ml. I dose each bird orally using a syringe without a needle, 2.5cc orally. When using this higher amount of liquid, shoot no more than 1/2cc at a time into the mouth, more than that and they can aspirate. Repeat again in 10-14 days.
All this said, we eat eggs after worming and we're still here after all these years. However if you suspect that you or a family member might have a reaction to residue in the eggs, discard them in the garbage. Do not sell nor give eggs away after worming birds.

Here's how you dose birds using a syringe without a needle. When it comes to worming birds orally, there's no guesswork about it, unlike putting a wormer in water to drink. You dont know if a bird will drink the treated water or drink enough of it to be effective. Sick birds drink very little, if at all. Birds drink less in cooler temps.
You'll want to worm birds early in the morning just before sunrise. Dont let them out of the coop to eat. Your birds will be hungry, so will the worms.
Preload your syringe with the liquid wormer and set it aside. Then go and snatch a bird off the roost. Cradle the bird in your forearm and use your thumb and fingers on the same arm to firmly pull the wattles down. Her mouth will open when you pull the wattles down. Use your free hand to grab the syringe and shoot the liquid in her mouth. IMMEDIATELY let go of the wattles go she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of the wattles, she can aspirate and then there will be big problems. Your other option is to let another person hold her while you pull the wattles down and shoot the wormer in her mouth. Again, make sure you let go of the wattles right away. Sometimes birds will shake their heads when you pull down the wattles, just hang on and they will tire.
I recommend that you practice doing this, a 'dry run' so to speak, but dont administer the wormer until you feel comfortable doing it this way.

As far as rotation goes, I normally rotate the 3 wormers that I have every 3-6 months, just depends. I dont rotate each month.

Awesome info!! Now I live up north in NH, not quite as warm and humid as your locale. Now I was wondering about doing this regime as a preventative measure, as none of my flock have worms. Would it be good as such or only if I saw signs?? Also it seems you eat the eggs no problem, do you still wait for the withdrawl time or no?

 

[dawg53]

Awesome info!! Now I live up north in NH, not quite as warm and humid as your locale. Now I was wondering about doing this regime as a preventative measure, as none of my flock have worms. Would it be good as such or only if I saw signs?? Also it seems you eat the eggs no problem, do you still wait for the withdrawl time or no?

You have to seriously take your environment into consideration as to how often you should worm your birds, especially soil conditions.
Where you live, I suspect your soil is cool, cold or frozen most of the time. Unlike our soil, just the opposite. REMEMBER, this is for folks who live in the northern states where the soil is practically frozen tundra most of the year LOL.

I think it would be in your best interest to gather multiple fresh fecal samples and place them in a ziplock bag. Then take them to a vet for a look/see under a microscope. The vet will let you know if there are any worm eggs, then you can treat accordingly.
There's a very good chance the microscopic slide will be free of worm eggs and you will have saved money of not having to purchase a wormer.

However if you still feel that you must worm your birds, just before springtime is best or just before birds are at point of lay in the spring.
Withdrawal times are the times you toss eggs in the garbage due to residue in the eggs. It's your choice whether or not to eat eggs containing wormer residue, however slight it might be. With most wormers, there is no set in stone withdrawal periods. Some companies state that eggs can never be eaten again, Wazine was a prime example. However the company DID state there was a 14 day slaughter withdrawal.

Another example is Ivermectin. People to this day still use it in their birds. I've used it long ago but dont anymore for two reasons; it has lost its effectiveness as a wormer in poultry due to overuse as a miteacide in poultry. Large roundworms are resistant to the product and I dont care what anyone says about it. This is from my personal experience as well as other chicken keepers I know.
The second reason why I dont use it is due to the long withdrawal period, 30 days for Ivermectin pour on. This is one of the wormers that I tossed eggs in the garbage for sure. Another is Eprinex, even though there wasnt a withdrawal period.
The company that produces Ivermectin and Eprinex, Merial, simply states that Ivermectin and Eprinex are not for use in poultry.
That said, there are other certain wormers that I'd definitely toss in the garbage as well. But I havnt used them in years.
IMO The Benzimidazoles are the safest wormers on the market for poultry which includes Fenbendazole (Safeguard), Albendazole (Valbazen), Flubendazole (flubenvet), and others.
I hope this helps.

 

[Trevorusn]

You have to seriously take your environment into consideration as to how often you should worm your birds, especially soil conditions.
Where you live, I suspect your soil is cool, cold or frozen most of the time. Unlike our soil, just the opposite. REMEMBER, this is for folks who live in the northern states where the soil is practically frozen tundra most of the year LOL.

I think it would be in your best interest to gather multiple fresh fecal samples and place them in a ziplock bag. Then take them to a vet for a look/see under a microscope. The vet will let you know if there are any worm eggs, then you can treat accordingly.
There's a very good chance the microscopic slide will be free of worm eggs and you will have saved money of not having to purchase a wormer.

However if you still feel that you must worm your birds, just before springtime is best or just before birds are at point of lay in the spring.
Withdrawal times are the times you toss eggs in the garbage due to residue in the eggs. It's your choice whether or not to eat eggs containing wormer residue, however slight it might be. With most wormers, there is no set in stone withdrawal periods. Some companies state that eggs can never be eaten again, Wazine was a prime example. However the company DID state there was a 14 day slaughter withdrawal.

Another example is Ivermectin. People to this day still use it in their birds. I've used it long ago but dont anymore for two reasons; it has lost its effectiveness as a wormer in poultry due to overuse as a miteacide in poultry. Large roundworms are resistant to the product and I dont care what anyone says about it. This is from my personal experience as well as other chicken keepers I know.
The second reason why I dont use it is due to the long withdrawal period, 30 days for Ivermectin pour on. This is one of the wormers that I tossed eggs in the garbage for sure. Another is Eprinex, even though there wasnt a withdrawal period.
The company that produces Ivermectin and Eprinex, Merial, simply states that Ivermectin and Eprinex are not for use in poultry.
That said, there are other certain wormers that I'd definitely toss in the garbage as well. But I havnt used them in years.
IMO The Benzimidazoles are the safest wormers on the market for poultry which includes Fenbendazole (Safeguard), Albendazole (Valbazen), Flubendazole (flubenvet), and others.
I hope this helps.

It helped immensely, thank you!