Thinking of trying an experiment.

I'm very surprised to hear people saying the Buff Rock were large. I've never had any but from reports of a few years ago on a Plymouth Rock thread they were under sized- let alone the long list of non standard attributes needing work. Not that your breeding for standard but this is the first I've read positive things on the Buff Plymouth Rock. Will be interesting to see it grow.

Naked Necks are said to have a good carcass. They are not a large bird so criteria by weight wont apply to them. When your evaluating for meat purpose the carcass proportions are what matters. A long lanky full of large tendons and bone 5 lbs carcass is still a carcass filled with large tendons and bones. Compare that to a 3 lbs much better proportioned Naked Neck or Dorking and you'll quickly see which looks and eats better from the table. Weights of birds are important for selecting breeders but it's not the end weight that you want to be looking for. I say this based on an interest in sustainable dual purpose birds. We continue flocks and get a lot of cockerels. There is value in having cockerels that make for good table birds albeit small.

Here is a good article highlighting the areas to hands on evaluate your birds for meat qualities:

http://www.livestockconservancy.org/images/uploads/docs/ALBCchicken_assessment-1.pdf

Using this method I think you'll soon find that Jersey Giants are your least desired bird for breeding forward.

As you know, cooking methods change by birds age. Tenderness of bird changes. The feed cost of getting birds to roaster age is extreme. I highly recommend culling most of them at grilling age. Selection for meat qualities and early wight gain would be to advantage for future breeders. Your going for a mixed flock so o breed consideration is applicable. All selection is purely based on the meat quality of the bird and then of course temperment at roasting age. Unfortunately this means your eating the smallest and least desirable carcass birds first. Once your grilling these 12-14 weeks old birds covered in marinade or sauce you'll soon get over that fact. The plus is your not feeding unwanted cockerels a ton of feed at the time they are eating the most. Dual purpose birds start to really pack the feed away around 10 weeks. Meat mass is packing on with fair conversion there to 14 ish weeks. After that the birds just getting tougher and still eating 1/4 pound of feed per day with little gain.

Weighing birds of same breed or in your future with crosses of same line at intervals from say 10 to 14 weeks will clearly show which are the faster to mature. Fast maturity is what you'd want to move forward in the line. Checking weights at this age will also help in determining a optimal time to cull. Once a line is established your cull date will be predetermined. Say I've one breed or have worked a mixed flock for few generations then I'd know that particular line is wasting feed after 13 weeks. There will be a point of diminished returns. The predetermined weekend you'd simply weight all the cockerels and cull the number of smallest birds you don't want to feed any longer. Being the slowest to mature or any other fault warrants eating before they eat you out of income.

Just some thoughts from a fella with 15? cockerels running around as we speak. All one breed, two lines and 12, 10 & 8 weeks old. I've been flying through the feed for bit over a week now.
 
There are many ways to manage and am not saying you should do this, your two flock system may work well for you. How I manage my flock is with one large layer coop and a small coop in separate pen. Last year e kept three cockerels to grow to cocks with the layers over winter. Will only keep two this year as spring hormones made for bare backs before I could cull out a few. Over breeding came on quick. But the system is to pull out a cock bird and selected hens to put in the small coop and pen for breeding. Rotate out the cock for another round of breeding while incubating and brooding the first batch. When the first batch is out of brooder the small coop becomes a grow out area. At 10-ish weeks the pullets are put in with the layers to make room. At 12 to 14 weeks cull cockerels for grilling. Come roasting age further selections are made pre chciken dinners. Volia! Your down to however many future breeding cocks you want that can be put in with the layers to condense to one coop pre winter.

Tagging is the best way to keep records on the birds you are growing out and have potential to be breeders. I don't tag every bird. Tag the potential breeding pullets as you move them to the layer coop too. By quick visual you know which females made best early weight at the time your evaluating the group for breeding pen next spring.

Hope that gives you some ideas to make your life easier.
 
I find that strain is usually much more important than breed, plus I get a lot of variation even from the same strain, especially with hatchery birds. With breeders it really depends on the breeder, how good they are, their goals, and how long they have been working on their line. Some of my hatchery Buff Rocks were good sized and well-proportioned when I butchered them at 18 to 23 weeks of age. Some were not.

Some people, I’d say most people on this forum, can’t get away from the thought that breed, breed, breed is all that is important. That hasn’t been my experience. If a good breeder is actually breeding for all breed characteristics (personality, production, and show qualities) I’ll agree that breed is important. But how many are actually breeding for all that? In my opinion, very very few.
 
Ridgrunner your right on in that regard. If it's a colorful variety that is the only thing they breed forward- best pattern. What gets me is many high quality breeders only evaluate based on the standard weight of a bird. This bothers me to no end. Take New Hampshire for example. The main quality of this bird is early maturity. If a breeder waits until breeding age to finally take weights and judge based on standard cock/hen weight then they ignore the main attribute of the breed. A slower growing bird of the same strain can surpass a faster maturing bird by the year end breeding age. In this regard I think the standard is flawed. Who cares if a bird is 1/2 pound under standard weight for a cock if it was 1/2 pound larger than his brood mate at a point of eating? The largest bird at the year mark will many times be the lankiest of the lot at both major times of cull- grilling and roasting age. It boggles the mind that would be top choice to breed forward. It fundamentally foils the fowl.
 
Those are people breeding for show, not all breed attributes. We all have our individual goals. If someone has a goal of breeding a championship show chicken, great. There is a lot more to a show chicken than just colors and patterns, confirmation is key. That’s not easy. I have a lot of respect for people that successfully do that. But those goals are not mine.

Can you tell that this is a pet peeve of mine, people thinking a show chicken is the true heritage form of the breed if personality and production traits are ignored. Or someone getting a hatchery bird and thinking that this is a true representative, including behavioral, of the entire breed.
 
I have read that the original Jersey Giant breeders selected the cockrels for eating early on the basis of large size AND well filled out muscling, in other words, the rounder eating chicken. The cockrels kept for breeding were large and lanky, expected to fill out as huge cocks much later in life. A big well muscled cockrel now might be a good choice in your flock, because you are interested in relatively rapid growth. At least, sounds good to me. Mary
 
Wow - go on a road trip for a few hours, and look what happens! Egghead and RR, thank you so much for the good information. The birds are at about the 14 week stage right now, so I guess now would be the time to go out and lift each one to gauge weight on them? I'm not sure I can judge body size or bulk with the feathers still on? I suppose I can palpate and see what kind of meat I can find... There is a SLW cockerel out there, too. I don't know about him, though. He doesn't look to sizeable. The generic red one is definitely smaller than the rest. The next smallest is the other Buff Rock (unless they slipped in a BO and called it a Rock, I don't know. Not keeping it either way.) If I let them get bigger and tougher, it's no matter to me as I like to have canned chicken on hand so the more meat I can get on a bird, the happier I am. They free range, so I don't go through too much feed this time of year. It's available, but they don't eat as much.

Here are a couple of pictures of that ugly NN. His color is kind of fun, but that's about all he's got going for him.





While I'm at it, here is my mystery chicken. She came with the Heavy Breed assortment, doesn't look like any of the pictures of the breeds in their catalog that I've found. In the bottom picture, she's got a Barred Rock pullet to the left of her. I didn't edit that out, just to show the difference in the feather pattern. She'll be kept for sure, just because I think she's pretty...


 
While I'm at it, here is my mystery chicken. She came with the Heavy Breed assortment, doesn't look like any of the pictures of the breeds in their catalog that I've found. In the bottom picture, she's got a Barred Rock pullet to the left of her. I didn't edit that out, just to show the difference in the feather pattern. She'll be kept for sure, just because I think she's pretty...

I'd guess she's a Dark Brahma....oops, but no feathered feet......silver penciled something or other, Plymouth Rock maybe........ love that plumage.
 
Good call, Aart! I googled Silver Penciled something or others, and got images of SP Rock and SP Wyandotte. I'm guessing Rock, judging by her general shape compared to the images I found. I'm happy to change that guess if someone who actually knows what they're talking about would like to correct me.
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