Ticks and fleas.

[AAJ]

I have some white silkie chicks and I was wondering what can I do to prevent fleas and stuff like that from getting on them, because I see little fruit flies staying on them.
Please help!!!

 

[wekiva bird]

Put a dusting area for them with DE in it . It has help with the flies and the ants in there coop.

 

[old tom]

What's DE?

 

[old tom]

OOPS. Yeah. Dia=whatever earth. Will plain old ashes from the brush burn pile work as well?
I'm new at this and need to know these things. Thanks.

 

[Bullitt]

DE -- Diatomaceous Earth

http://www.tractorsupply.com/safer-...-ant-and-crawling-insect-killer-4-lb--1023455

It states that it kills fleas. It does not mention ticks.

 

[SteveBaz]

I have not really heard fleas and ticks much on chickens but mites and lice and red lice is a concern. DE (diatomaceous earth) is a fantastic product:

DE (Diatomaceous Earth) Food Grade - Food grade diatomaceous earth is EPA approved to be mixed with grains to control mealworms and pests. Food grade diatomaceous earth makes a very effective natural insecticide. The insecticidal quality of diatomaceous earth is due to the razor sharp edges of the diatom remains. When diatomaceous earth comes in contact with the insects, the sharp edges lacerate the bugs waxy exoskeleton and then the powdery diatomaceous earth absorbs the body fluids causing death from dehydration. Food grade diatomaceous earth has been used for at least two decades as a natural wormer for livestock. Some believe diatomaceous earth scratches and dehydrates parasites. Some scientists believe that diatomaceous earth is a de-ionizer or de-energizer of worms or parasites. Regardless, people report definite control. To be most effective, food grade diatomaceous earth must be fed long enough to catch all newly hatching eggs or cycling of the worms through the lungs and back to the stomach. A minimum of 60 days is suggested by many, 90 days is advised for lungworms. Best yet, parasites don’t build up a tolerance/immunity to its chemical reaction, so rotation of wormers is unnecessary. Internal feeding of food grade diatomaceous earth helps eliminate most internal worms, including roundworms, pin worms, tapeworms, etc. It's also excellent when fed daily to keep down fly loads, since food grade diatomaceous earth is eliminated from the body, exactly the way it went in, it helps reduce the manure odor and kills flies that come in contact with it. Mix in animal feed or grain and/or feed free choice. Our goats, fowl, and dogs eat it free choice. DE is primarily used for the control of external parasites, and as a wormer when using food grade DE. Diatomaceous (die-uh-toe-may-shus) "DE", as diatomaceous earth is abbreviated, has the neat quality of killing insects. It's perfect for natural insect control. It is 100% ecologically safe to the environment and non-poisonous to man and beast. In fact, if you've eaten anything made with flour you've eaten DE. It's used in commercial grain storage as a means of natural, poison-free, insect control. Worming add 2% D.E. to your feed to reduce, or eliminate internal parasites and worms. Delousing your birds to help control external parasites like red mites, and lice. You will also need to spread this liberally on roosts, bedding areas, and dusting spots. Take care not to inhale the dust, as it can cause lung problems. Run down system food with protein I would separate her in a kennel away from your other birds in the event it may be contagious. I would set up a little pet hospital with good lighting so your bird is not locked up and being punished but in a warmer area with lighting and a hospital environment. A large Dog Kennel would do very well. Feed this girl/roo foods that offer substance like eggs (scrambled or hard boiled or fried), flax seed, linseed, sunflower seed no shells ground up, broccoli & cauliflower crushed up, cooked chicken minced up in a food processor, corn frozen in a bag and steamed, meal-worms, cottage cheese with flax seed, linseed, sunflower seed no shells ground up in it. Foods that deliver a punch to the digestive system. As far as respiratory tract and internal part the doctor took car of that for 2 weeks so do your job and feed her great nutritional stuff. Best of luc
Deep litter methods is 1 of the preferred methods discussed here on the BYC Forums. I lay down up to 4" in spots to start the in the beginning. Some use only 2" but do what you want but as you lay it down I add and sprinkle D.E. (diatomaceous earth). The DE helps with lice, mites and odor over the top and then throw down more wood shavings and DE until its the depth you want. Then each day I pick up poop and throw it into my 5 gallon poop bucket. Then with a stick I hang inside the coop I begin to stir the shavings up until they are soft and loose and not packed down. This stirs the poop you miss lower in the shavings toward the dirt floor. Now in a month or so you will begin to feel it is beginning to have an odor or is looking dark and dirty it may be time to throw down and sprinkle some more DE on the top layer after you have stirred the coop or shavings in the brooder. Then put down new shavings on top about 1" or so not a lot but enough to make it look fresh. This will continue until spring for me. In the spring I have 8" or more of shavings (15 to 20 cuft) and I dig the entire coop and brooder out into a wheel barrel and it goes to my flower beds and garden beds and the remainder goes to my compost pile where I empty my poop bucket too. At the end of Summer as it begins Fall I do this again to keep the flower beds warm to keep the cold off the roots and add to the compost pile again. It is a constant work in progress but easy to do.
Delousing Red Mites The most common mite found in poultry. Red mites are gray until feeding on blood, turning them red. Mite infestations can cause weight loss, skin irritation, feather damage, low egg production, reduced fertility, retarded growth in young birds, and in extreme cases, death. Poultry Mites there are two major types of mites found on the body of poultry. They are the Northern Fowl Mite the Tropical Fowl Mite and the Chicken Mite or Red Roost Mite. The Northern Fowl Mite is the most common external parasite in poultry, especially in cool weather climates. It sucks blood from all different types of fowl and can live in the temperate regions of the world. As compared to the Chicken Mite, the Northern Fowl Mite primarily remains on the host for its entire life cycle. These mites can live off the host bird for 2 to 3 weeks. These mites are small and black or brown in color, have 8 legs, and are commonly spread through bird-to-bird contact. The Tropical Fowl Mite is comparable to the Northern Fowl Mite but lives in the tropical regions. The Chicken Mite is a nocturnal mite that is primarily a warm weather pest. These mites suck the blood from the birds at night and then hide in the cracks and crevices of the houses during the day. Chicken Mites are dark brown or black, much like the Northern Fowl Mite. The life cycle of mites can be as little as 10 days, which allows for a quick turnover and heavy infestations. Mites can be transferred between flocks by crates, clothing, and wild birds. Mites are capable of living in the environment and off the host bird for a period of time. Diagnoses of mite infestations are similar to that of lice; however since mites can live off the bird and some are nocturnal, inspect birds and housing facilities at night especially if you suspect that the Chicken Mite is the cause of the infestation. Observable signs may include darkening of the feathers on white feathered birds due to mite feces; scabbing of the skin near the vent mite eggs on the fluff feathers and along the feather shaft, or congregations of mites around the vent, ventral abdomen, tail, or throat. Since mites congregate around the ventral region, they can also reduce a rooster’s ability of successful mating

Dust bath benefits
Dust bathing, chickens remove dander, feather flakes and excess oils from their skin and feathers. This encourages preening. This is when the chickens will oil their feathers using the oil gland located on the top of the tail pad to help keep the feathers in good condition and waterproof. Parasite control, Depending on the contents of the dust box, the powder or dust they bathe in may be harmful to parasites commonly found on chickens. By adding these organic powders, mites or lice can be controlled or reduced naturally. Makes for content hens and this benefit is more subjective, but the ability to do this natural action for chickens must lead to healthier hens. If you ever watch hen dust bathing, they have certain contentment to them, especially if they are relaxing in the sunshine. The fact the hens will line up to use it when new deeper dust is added speaks volumes.

 

[ChickensAreSweet]

You can set up a dustbox (concrete mixing tub works well) with DE, sand, dirt, and woodstove ashes (cool) in it for them to bathe.

For an actual infestation of external parasites I recommend the poultry dust from the feed store, but for prevention the above is great! Keep the bath out of the rain.

 

[AAJ]

Wow. Thanks a lottttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt.

 

[SteveBaz]

 

[Maryallison]

Hey I love the dust bath idea! I just noticed today that we have the sand fleas around some of the bantams eyes

I have used DE for years!!!! I should not be having this problem! Since I am I am gonna set up a bath (normally I just sprinkle in nest boxes and around coops) Can I spray permitherine spray on the chickens? Or should I just pick off the fleas they have. Oh just pointing out I do live in Florida (in the sand!!!)