Timber size help :)

[laura2806]

hi!

We currently have a large run built using picket fencing with a green net over the top. It's functional but not pretty with the net!

We have a small shed that is solid and hardly used. There is space around it to create a 4m long by 2.3m wide run and convert the shed to a coop.

But we're a bit stumped on what size timber to use for the frame work. We were thinking of using a wooden gravel board for the bottom but don't really know what's best for the rest. We need to do it as cheap as possible (as always!) but don't want it to fall down after a year!

Any advice would be amazing!!

Side note - we have 5 bantams, 4 hens and a rooster, and have hatched 2 chicks which will be rehomed at about 10wks old, but will need an outside space soon and I don't want to buy another little coop & run for the same price we could make a big one and have 2!! I think that's just me justifying us doing the new one

 

[Egghead_Jr]

Since your using a gravel board you don't really need pressure treated wood. Definitely paint or stain the sill plate board all sides prior to putting on top of gravel board. Structurally speaking a run doesn't hold much, even if covered and holding snow 2.4m is not a large span. That said if your covering the top I'd use 38x89's for rafters. All other lumber can be 38x63. Problems with 63mm lumber is it warps easy. You have to be selective what you buy. Go through the stack looking for straight timber.

Had a heck of a time figuring out what dimensions were used in UK, besides obvious metric. Assumed you used nominal sizing also so what is 2x4 here would be a 5x10 cm there. Not the case it seems. Even though it's timber you sell as a finished dimension then use mm to cancel decimal/fractions. Anywho, our timber is sold by rough cut size even though it's been planed. 2x4 inch mill cut planed all 4 sides becomes 1.5x3.5 which is 38x89mm. We keep the nominal size, mill cut designation, as timber can be surfaced one side, two sides, three sides and all sides which makes for a lot of dimensions from a single rough cut board. Believe it or not the nominal size makes it easier unless you don't work with wood.

 

[laura2806]

Thank you!

We've been looking and think we've decided on 75x75mm fence posts for the corners and a central support in the longer sides. Then something like 38x87 for tips of the sides and across each panel to give a bit more support. Going to ring a local saw mill tomorrow and see what they charge

 

[Ridgerunner]

How tall are you making it? I really like to be able to stand up in the run. What material (probably wire mesh of some size) are you using to cover it, top and sides? The wire mesh may be your largest expense. Hardware like hinges and hasps can get expensive too. If you have a Habitat reuse store in Tamworth you might look there for materials.

Stretching the wire tight can help stiffen the frame tremendously but attaching diagonals across those open panels can help a lot. if you are uncomfortable with how wobbly it is you might keep diagonals in mind. I'm not going through the trouble Egghead did on figuring out sizes but those diagonals don't have to be very big.

As far as justification I find a second coop to be a tremendous asset. A second coop greatly increases your flexibility in being able to deal with any issues that pop up. If for any reason you need to isolate a chicken (say one is injured), want to integrate new chickens, want to raise chicks to a certain age, maybe isolate a broody and her chicks, maybe rig a broody buster in that second coop, just so many things, you can. A second coop can take a lot of the emergency out of a situation, greatly reducing your stress.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

If your using fence posts then why use the gravel board? Sink your posts whatever spacing you want, every 1.5 or 2m and use a top plate and center horizontal for securing points of fencing. That gravel plate is expensive and not needed, in conjunction with stick lumber it would work well but if your getting posts then sink them in ground and use fencing out from run 40 cm as a dig proof apron. Fencing laid flat just under sod or let grass grow through it will stop animals from digging under.

Your Wick's is same as our Lowe's, exact website even just different name and in metric. Your best price will be at a box store like that. Isn't it odd that your posts are not the same dimension as the stick lumber...can't figure that. Like here if we use a 4x4 post it's the same width as a 2x4. Your post is 75mm and stick lumber 89mm...how does that work? Getting so confused.

 

[aart]

Kind of off topic, sorry @laura2806, but this discussion made me think of this lawsuit regarding Nominal vs Actual size of lumber in the US...SMH.
https://www.usatoday.com/story/mone...-depot-menards-lumber-size-lawsuit/415874001/