Too little space?

[HeartlandChickens]

Hello everyone! I am working on building my first coop. My pans is to have between 4-6 chickens to start out since I've never had chickens before. My plan is to build an 4' x 8' coop including the nesting boxes. They will only be in the coop at night or if the weather is particularly crappy (I am in the PNW so this time of year those days still happen). The coop will be raised so they will have the space underneath to run around in addition to the 4' x 10' run that will be attached to the coop. It will also be completely covered since we are in the woods and there are plenty of predators for them.

My questions are:

1. Is that enough space for 4-6 chickens?

2. Do they each need their own nesting box or do I only need 2 or 3?

3. Has anyone every tried putting a hot wire around the coop? Like I said we are up in the woods and have raccoons and the occasional coyote. I also have 2 dogs that have never been around chickens and one of them was a stray so I'm sure he has had to hunt at some point.

4. Recommendations for windows/ ventilation?

5. Thoughts on pressure treated wood?

Thank you so much for taking the time to read and if you have any advise this first time chick mom would greatly appreciate it!

 

[Ridgerunner]

1. Is that enough space for 4-6 chickens?

Short answer, yes.

2. Do they each need their own nesting box or do I only need 2 or 3?

Two nests are plenty. Make them a minimum cube of 12" x 12" x 12". A little bigger is fine. Mine are 16" x 16" x 16" cubes.

3. Has anyone every tried putting a hot wire around the coop? Like I said we are up in the woods and have raccoons and the occasional coyote. I also have 2 dogs that have never been around chickens and one of them was a stray so I'm sure he has had to hunt at some point.

Plenty of us use electricity like that. If installed properly it is very effective.

4. Recommendations for windows/ ventilation?

How tall will the coop be? What is the style? Is it elevated or on the ground? There are many different ways you could build that coop. My personal preference is to make the coop relatively tall, have a good slope on the roof, and have enough overhang so you can leave the top of the wall open (covered with hardware cloth to keep predators out) so that area gives a lot of ventilation yet the overhang keeps rain and snow out. Others go about it differently.

Some people may tell you that you have to have one of more windows on a certain side. I don't do that. My rules are that you and they need enough natural light during the day for you and the chickens both to be able to see what you are doing. Also, you need some light in there as it is getting dark so they can find their way to the roost.

Some people like a really bright coop. My personal preference is one that is a bit darker, I think darker is more soothing. But that is personal preference. Both ways work.

5. Thoughts on pressure treated wood?

Anything that touches the ground needs to not rot. That can be treated wood rated for ground contact, really expensive wood that doesn't rot like redwood or fir, cinder blocks, concrete, or something like that. If the wood is up off the ground it doesn't matter as long as it doesn't stay wet.

The chemicals they use to treat wood these days are not as nasty as what they used to use. I personally do not worry in the least about it poisoning the chickens or eggs.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Hi there, welcome to BYC!

1) Just barely due to inevitable chicken math! But depending on your birds personalities and YOUR routine. The general recommendation for home keepers is 4 sq feet per bird inside the coop and 10 sq feet per bird in the run. This is partly for the birds happiness and lower density populations won't spread illness AS fast if they do face something.. but majorly for the keepers convenience to keep cleaning minimal with enjoyment maximal, and allow for a LITTLE leeway in your schedule. If you are able, bigger is better as it offers more options if you have an injured or ill bird, broody, or whatever might happen. Consider adding droppings boards to your set up, as this allows the floor to be cleaner. Also consider getting only 3 (or 4) ladies this year and adding 2 or 3 next spring to round out your next winter egg production... your new additions should be laying next year in time for the ones you get this year to molt... which they don't usually lay eggs during. Also, having a variety of birds is nice, did you get them already? I have several feeds stores in town that get different chicks than each other every week this season, so calling to see what they have coming in helps find what I may be most interested in. Get PULLETS if you can't have or don't wan't roosters. Here are a couple comparison links for different breeds in case you're still considering your options...
https://livestockconservancy.org/images/uploads/docs/pickachicken.pdf
http://www.sagehenfarmlodi.com/chooks/chooks.html
Breeds of Chickens

2) 2 (or 3) nesting boxes is plenty... They generally pick only a couple locations where their sisters/flock mates also lay and have deemed as a safe place. They usually take turns. Make SURE your roost is higher than your nesting box(s) in order to prevent sleeping in them.

3) LOVE hot wire, VERY effective when placed appropriately! I also live in the PNW with plenty pf predators... Use 1/2 hardware cloth (HC) to keep raccoons from reaching through and pulling off heads. Usually the lower portion of the run and a skirt coming at out ground level to prevent digging in as most animals are not wise enough to back up and dig under. If mink or weasel type animals are ever to be of concern then all holes should be covered with the HC.. chicken wire is ONLY to keep chickens in.

4) Ventilate as much as possible while still preventing drafts. I like 3 sided structures with one side fully open.. the open side being higher so rain drains to the back... flat roof being more affordable than an A point type roof which drains on both sides... Either way, not draining over where I collect eggs or the chickens enter the house is preferred by far. Sorry I don't know the proper terms for framing structures. This is NOT my area of expertise and hopefully you will get lots more input on ventilation.

5) I use pressure treated lumber on anything that will be in constant contact with the ground. I cannot afford the time or energy to make repairs every couple years nor do I consider it to be eco friendly. I suggest deep litter or semi deep litter method for your run, or maybe untreated LARGE wood chips.. sand stinks in my experience.

Hope you have a wonderful adventure!