Tractor started - is very heavy already

jennmugg

In the Brooder
10 Years
Apr 2, 2009
82
0
39
Titusville Florida
So my hubby started framing it this weekend. The run and coop together are 4 feet wide and 8 feet long. He has just added the frame of the run, floor of the coop and none of the coop framing, and it is HEAVY. We will have 8 ISA Browns, and I wanted to make sure it gave them enough space, but now I don't know how portable it will be.

I tried to take pics this morning, and my camera died
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By the time I finished my tractor it was so heavy I gave up, wired in the bottom and put legs on it. Now it is the baby bantam grow-out coop. I have seen big ones which remained portable by being broken down onto two sections. More portable but a pain in the butt because of the time it takes to break-down and re-assemble.
 
Our coop turned out to be like 400 lbs or more. It took a group of us and some wheels to move ours. Lets say, it is no longer mobile!
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Those things get WAY heavy. All for 2+ lb birds.
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It is hard to build light yet, strong, without some clever engineering. This is why most tractors are small and/or relatively flimsy affairs.

Mine is different. It has wheels on arms that lever the tractor up off the ground. Once levered this way, I can pull it myself. When its in the new spot, I lower the wheels and voila! ... all set up.
I can also stand up in it and it has room for 10 hens. Pretty big.

It really is ingenious, actually. I wish I had thought of it myself. Sadly, I dont think the plans are available any more. Maybe I can get the rights to sell them from the original creator. Check this spot often for updates
 
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It's good policy to add up the weight of materials in the proposed design before starting to build. Oops, too late <g> but before proceeding with construction I'd suggest doing some pencil games for different ways of proceeding.

Wheels help, but only "so" much.

I don't know what your design is but I'd suggest using 2x4s only for the part of the frame that actually sits on the ground -- use 2x2s for the rest, and the lightest plywood you can get away with, and a plastic or metal roof. Use clever bracing and good engineering to get your rigidity without weight.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
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I just happen to be thinking about how to do the very same thing.
Would you mind posting some pics of your setup?

Sure, I'll get to it tomorrow - gotta go to work now. Once thats done, Ill tell you how to get the plans for yourself.
The guy who invented the tractor I use may not be a genius (so he says) - but, he's pretty danged good if you ask me.
 
Here's a rinky dink tractor I threw together. I'll be the first to admit it has a few drawbacks ( the worst being hard to access). But, it's 3' x 10' and weighs at the most 150#. No wheels, or floor of any kind. No nest box, just a roost (Bob's bachelor pad). I just drag it around to where I want it. I really should stake it to the ground. I thought the wind would have picked it up and set Bob free by now. It's been site tested to 50mph gusts (lost the coffee can feed protector and a few dead trees is all). Maybe, the low profile, compined with the ridge cap design, is providing some sort of aerodynamic lift spoiling effect.
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It's built out of 2 x 2s and 2 x 3s. I have a wide crown staple gun, like the type used to assemble the framing for RVs, that holds it all together. The door has a diagonal brace, that stiffens it when closed. Total cost was about $30. Scrap roofing from other construction jobs and scrounging kept the costs low. Bob is hoping the next big wind storm will set him free.
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I'll update, with the esimated wind speed at lift off, when it occurs.
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