Trying my best to recreate this coop. Need advice please!

I'm in Hawaii. No raccoons! We have mongoose though. They aren't very strong but I will still do the 2x2 on the inside and attach the HC to that.
My vision is that the HC will be recessed in so its not entirely visible.
Thanks again!
 
@cavemanrich
Do you think 1x3 trim for the the 4 corners. And 1x2 trim for windows and main door?

And when they do corners do they cut it at 45? Or do they butt it up to eachother? And if they butt it up do they make one with less width so theres equal amount of trim on each side of corner?

Sorry if that confusing lol
 
Not confusion at all... :thumbsup
I think your trim Ideas are great. I would butt at corners rather than 45 Degree. This allows you to use wider on bottom and top and narrower on the sides. Looks good that way. You also can make it pretty by using different color (paint) for the trim and the panels. Contrast makes a pleasing view. Being in a raccoon free zone, the HC alone should be sufficient.
 
This is what I had in mind,,,, to look like this.
craftsman-window-trim-best-craftsman-window-trim-ideas-on-window-trims-window-casing-and-craftsman-trim-craftsman-window-trim-diy.jpg

instead of like this.
846b116a25fb44279f8e1112f50f039b.jpg

These are just pix of door trim, but its what I could find quickly to convey my thought.
Can be applied to windows just the same. It is just a matter of personal taste. :thumbsup
 
Thanks for the examples!

Any opinion on using just a plain 1x3 or something a little more like crown molding for windows.
 
Okay.
Hopefully will finish it within the next week.
They are about a week old I think. Got them this past Friday and i think they were a few days old.
4.jpg

Move them outside at 4 weeks old?

How warm should the area be under the light?
 
I just put my one week olds out in the coop today,
with their Pseudo Brooder Heat 'Plate'.
upload_2018-4-30_19-57-49.png



Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:
They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.

The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
-If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
-If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
-If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.

Or you could go with a heat plate, commercially made or DIY: http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate
 

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