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TSC Coop/run modification/design thoughts?

I found that I had to pre-drill for screws no matter the wood because my upper body strength wasn't great enough to just drive in screws, even with impact driver. :(
 
Pre-drilling is a good practice regardless as it greatly reduces the chance of splitting the wood. Just make sure that the hole you make is a little smaller than the screw so that it can bite into the walls and compress the wood a little around it.
 
I found that I had to pre-drill for screws no matter the wood because my upper body strength wasn't great enough to just drive in screws, even with impact driver.
A little bees or candle wax on a screws can help a great deal.

Pre-drilling is a good practice regardless as it greatly reduces the chance of splitting the wood. Just make sure that the hole you make is a little smaller than the screw so that it can bite into the walls and compress the wood a little around it.
Pilot holes must be carefully sized, especially if using tapered screws(like wood screws).
 
So, while double checking everything and thinking about how a predator might try to get in, I am wondering if anyone modded the board under the nesting area? It can be pushed up from underneath. I am predator proofing the run, but the what-ifs are running through my head. If you did mod it, how? I’m thinking some small piece of wood along the border to keep it from being pushed up. Or maybe pieces going across the bottom of the nest box?

I added eye screws and carabiners like L2Fly’s coop. I also used some paint sticks to keep the sliding doors from sliding if a raccoon was tempted to open one of the doors and maybe pop the hc in.
I found on the nesting box door some of the boards were weak and popped apart. Not sure if that has been like that or happened since we put the coop up. Anyway, we had some really thin plywood (?) from the bottom of some kitchen cabinets that we removed - my husband cut it down and fit it to the inside of the door. The door is much heavier now and a lot stronger, no predator will be able to push though the boards of that door. We live in between fields of beans and corn and the coop is not protected by any backyard fence -so that’s why I’m so paranoid about predators. :sick

Once I get all of the mods done, I will post pics.

One other question what is your feed and water system?
 
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So, I’ve had my chickens for a week now. They are doing fine. I didn’t realize how big fully grown chickens are so feel a little bad for them since they came from a free ranging setup.

Anyway, we glued down the board under the nesting box for a little extra security in case anything got in while they were in the coop. I added hardware cloth all around the outside and created an apron. Plus, I weighted down the apron with some stepping stones we weren’t using. I will probabaly add some stone in the spring when I do my landscaping around the house.

My hubby built a run extension out of plastic lattice. We were going to try cattle panel for a hoop run, but haven’t had enough time to work with that material. I was worried that the lattice wasn’t secure enough, but realized that I can still lock their run/coop when they are in there in the evening. We can add to it if we get more panels. These were just ones lying around not being used.
 
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I have a question and not found any answer after searching and writing the people at TSC. I purchased this same coop (but haven't built it yet) Looking at the pictures and then the corner of the yard I want to put this in, the doors and window will be facing my fence.

Are the side panels interchangable? Could I just flip the left and right sides of the coop when I construct them so the main door/windows face other way?

If I built it as the picture shows and then just rotate the whole coop the nest area doors will be against my corner fence as well. so I am hoping I could just build it with the sides opposite of how they are pictured.
Nope. Everything is planned out for this coop. Not interchangeable on the sides or anything. I had to rethink where I put mine.
 
Nope. Everything is planned out for this coop. Not interchangeable on the sides or anything. I had to rethink where I put mine.

Actually the person who originally asked that question did change their coop to work the way they needed it to with a little modifying - they posted more about it on down the thread (page 3 or 4 I think).
 
So here's what I learned I've done wrong...I didn't paint! Why wouldn't that be something included in the instructions!? I didn't reinforce hardware cloth. And I used regular staples on the hardware cloth apron. I'm hoping I can get through the wi ter. This coop is inside a 10x10x6 chain link dog run that also is covered with wire and hardware cloth with an apron. I just want to get through winter.
 
Your questions are why I've decided to never again buy a retail coop. They lie about capacity, use flimsy materials and you can build better for less.
 

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