Tylan 200 injection schedule

[Mark_Kaiser]

WOW --- thank you all for sharing your advice; really really appreciate it!

Our sick Wyandotte is still struggling; she's still eating and drinking but almost gasping for air, sometimes quite loudly like she can't breathe; I feel horrible and am considering culling her in the evening, but every morning, she seems so much better and is out with the gang doing her thing.

Tonight we will give her Tylan orally by Hawg's method; and change the dosage from .5ml to .15ml per froggieshiens' recommendation. Sorry to keep asking questions, but with no improvement do you think we should make the switch to AGRIMYCIN?

Is having a chicken vet take a blood sample and testing it the only way to determine the disease; whether its bacterial or viral? CRD or ?????

Again thank you -- you've been a real blessing!

- there, my first smily face

My wife was reading over my shoulder having fun looking at everyone's fun chicken names --- she asked what our fun name was and I sheepishly replied, um... Mark.

 

[1livelychick]

Quote:
Hahahaha. cute regarding your chicken name Mark, how much does she weigh? Poultry vet stated .85 that a little over 3/4 cc for a chicken weighing in at 6.6 lbs that's the tylan 50...tylan 200 .23 cc ml that's a little under 1/4 cc.....200 is way stronger.. admin.nine days once a day orally. just sharing what I learned when I went to the poultry vet.....

 

[Mark_Kaiser]

Wow --- now I'm not sure at all. Was following my book DISEASES OF FREE RANGE POULTRY by Victoria Roberts which prescribed an injection of Tylan 200 .5ml for an adult into the breast muscle; repeat in 48 hours. We did just that, no success.

This is a full grown Wyandotte (unsure of actual weight). We are experiencing the heat wave of the century here and she's hanging on. When watching her, every few minutes she'll take a huge, long 'gasp' of air while raising her neck as high as she can? The kind of sound you'd make after breaking the surface of the water after holding your breath for a minute. Does that offer any clues what she has?

- Thank you thank you --

 

[Mark_Kaiser]

I did some more looking on the forum and saw some YouTube videos that suggest our Wyandotte might have gapeworm??

The recommendation was to give SafeGuard; a cattle wormer. Can anyone corroborate and offer a recommended dosage?

I do think, based on my additional findings, this might be the 'answer' --- THANK YOU for any advice on this line!

 

[dawg53]

Quote:
The easiest and least expensive way to treat her if you suspect gapeworm is with Safeguard (fenbendazole)liquid goat wormer in the 125ml bottle, it costs about $16 and can be purchased from Jefferslivestock.com or call them. It is given orally, use a syringe without a needle to administer. Dosage is 1cc for giants, 3/4cc for large fowl, 1/2cc for standard size, 1/4cc for smaller chickens. Redose again 10 days after the initial treatment.

 

[Echobabe]

I, too, suggest gapeworm may be your culprit. You should give a smaller initial dose to your hen (my vet recommended 25% 1st week, 50% next week, then full dose 3rd week). This is because the dying worms could clog up/overwhelm your bird, especially if she is weakend already. Look for Safeguard/Panacur goat wormer at TSC, which is fenbendazole. The mixing is 3ml to a gallon of water (or 1 ml to 42 oz).

For 25% solution--The take 1 cup of the mixed solution and add 3 cups water. Use as only source of drinking water for 1 day.
For 50% solution--take 2 cups of mixed solution and add 2 cups water. Use as only source of drinking water for 1 day.
Third week--no cutting, full dose.

I keep an old plastic pop jug just for mixing and keeping worming medicine. Even if you consistently use DE with your flock, you should worm them twice yearly. I try to time one worming with their molt. You should always give 2 doses a week apart, to kill any new eggs that may have hatched since the first dose.

They get lung worms from eating earthworms, which contain a parasite. The parasite eggs hatch in the intestinal tract, then migrate through the intestines to finally lodge in the lungs. All this damage can cause your bird to become very sick systemically and eventually die from compromised lungs. I've been told most wild birds that eat bugs die from this eventually.

You may want to augment her diet with high quality foods. Do a search for Ricket's Diet--it's helped a lot of weak hens pull though.

Oh, and the egg withdrawal period for panacur is 7-10 days. I make it a solid 2 weeks just to be safe.

Good luck with her!

 

[Echobabe]

The antibiotic is also a good idea, just make sure it does not conflict with the wormer.

 

[dawg53]

I do NOT recommend mixing the Safeguard liquid goat wormer in water in this particular instance.
1. Your hen is sick, she may not drink the treated water.
2. She may not drink enough of it to be effective.
This is why you must dose her orally yourself, that way you know she properly got treated. Repeat again in 10 days.
I agree with Echobabe that the antibiotic shouldnt be given at the same time you're worming.

 

[Mark_Kaiser]

Hi guys -- welllll.... I posted and asked for your advice and then checked back on the Wyandotte and she was beginning to really struggle to breathe .... so in a little bit of a panic I searched and found several different threads on here for different gapeworm solutions including Ivomec injectable (but given orally), Ivomec Eprinex (given topically), Safeguard cattle wormer, among several others. The most comprehensive posting strongly recommending Ivomec Eprinex for gapeworm; so I did purchase some last night and we dropped the recommended 0.5 cc on the back of her neck on the skin last night. So far no change; but I am hoping a topical wormer might take a little bit to do its thing.

You guys posted so fast, wish I would have checked back. Thank you so much for that; still getting my feet wet on this my first forum.

So Dawg and Echobabe, did I mess up? By giving her a full topical dose I imagine I have put her in danger of all the worms dying at once?

After all this I am going to begin a twice a year worming like you said; we have a small enough flock (typically 15-25 birds) so administering orally isn't really a big deal. For a scheduled worming (say spring and fall) would the Safeguard (fenbendazole) liquid goat wormer in the dosage is 1cc for giants, 3/4cc for large fowl, 1/2cc for standard size, 1/4cc for smaller chickens (redose again 10 days afterwords) be appropriate? Or are there other 'benefits' to the water mixing method?

 

[Mark_Kaiser]

And again, can't say thank you enough.