Unhatched distressed chick with large air bubble. Suggestions or advice please?

Thank you for getting back to me.
I think when I started this adventure with incubation eggs, I thought that the eggs would either hatch or not hatch. I didn't realize that there was a possibility that they might partially hatch and then slowly die. So that was distressing to watch and not really be sure what to do.
I had two hatch out of this batch of several. I had taken three out early in the incubation process because of the death ring. My incubator is a homemade one made of styrofoam with a 40 watt bulb inserted in the side, a humidity/temp gauge, a bowl of water and sponge and a grate to keep the eggs up off the floor for better heat distribution. No fan. Since it was my first time, I used my eggs from the coop so they were a mix of wyandotte and rhode island red (hatched first) wyandotte and california white (hatched second) and the last one was wyandotte and auracauna (died during hatch). I kept the temp at 99 with humidity at 55 during the first 18 days then raised the humidity with another bowl of water the last three days to the 70's. I manually turned the eggs three times a day for 18 days and then went into lockdown.
Where I probably may the fatal error was during the hatching of the first two. The first one pipped and unzipped perfectly. The second one pipped but didn't really unzip and was assisted by me. I may have just needed to wait but it was strong and healthy and it worked out fine. During all of the this the incubator was opened and closed several times. I was able to keep the humidity up for the most part but I think that is were the last one got messed up. She was a day behind and when she pipped it was on the under side. Then she just did nothing. After 48 hours I opened the pip up and exposed her beak to the air. she was pretty chatty and seemed fine but didn't progress. Later I opened the air cell (I had candled at day 18) on the egg and found that she looked "shrink wrapped". I kept the membrane moist with a damp paper towel and back in the incubator she went. I could see her beak from my window on top. She seemed fine until late in day 24 when she began panting and the foamy stuff came out. That was when i noticed the air bubble on the back of her neck area.
I think she ruptured a lung. I don't know if taking her out at that point would have helped or not.
In the end she was good size, well formed, in the correct position and looked normal except for the air bubble on her neck.
I will definitely take a look at hatching 101. I was not fun going from so happy to hatch out two chicks to watching the last one die. With as much researching I did before they incubator was made, I need more education on this before I start again. I also think I will buy a real incubator.
 
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Thank you for getting back to me.
I think when I started this adventure with incubation eggs, I thought that the eggs would either hatch or not hatch. I didn't realize that there was a possibility that they might partially hatch and then slowly die. So that was distressing to watch and not really be sure what to do.
I had two hatch out of this batch of several. I had taken three out early in the incubation process because of the death ring. My incubator is a homemade one made of styrofoam with a 40 watt bulb inserted in the side, a humidity/temp gauge, a bowl of water and sponge and a grate to keep the eggs up off the floor for better heat distribution. No fan. Since it was my first time, I used my eggs from the coop so they were a mix of australorp and rhode island red (hatched first) australorp and california white (hatched second) and the last one was australorp and auracana (died during hatch). I kept the temp at 99 with humidity at 55 during the first 18 days then raised the humidity with another bowl of water the last three days to the 70's. I manually turned the eggs three times a day for 18 days and then went into lockdown.
Where I probably may the fatal error was during the hatching of the first two. The first one pipped and unzipped perfectly. The second one pipped but didn't really unzip and was assisted by me. I may have just needed to wait but it was strong and healthy and it worked out fine. During all of the this the incubator was opened and closed several times. I was able to keep the humidity up for the most part but I think that is were the last one got messed up. She was a day behind and when she pipped it was on the under side. Then she just did nothing. After 48 hours I opened the pip up and exposed her beak to the air. she was pretty chatty and seemed fine but didn't progress. Later I opened the air cell (I had candled at day 18) on the egg and found that she looked "shrink wrapped". I kept the membrane moist with a damp paper towel and back in the incubator she went. I could see her beak from my window on top. She seemed fine until late in day 24 when she began panting and the foamy stuff came out. That was when i noticed the air bubble on the back of her neck area.
I think she ruptured a lung. I don't know if taking her out at that point would have helped or not.
In the end she was good size, well formed, in the correct position and looked normal except for the air bubble on her neck.
I will definitely take a look at hatching 101. I was not fun going from so happy to hatch out two chicks to watching the last one die. With as much researching I did before they incubator was made, I need more education on this before I start again. I also think I will buy a real incubator.
The problem was the temperature, you will need to hold a 102 degree temp at the top of the eggs when you don't have a fan model.... also you need to use humidity as a tool not a number, either weigh eggs or watch and mark aircells, see the article for all this info....
https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/hatching-eggs-101

this explains temp from that article.... this is a BIG reason you had so much trouble....
TEMPERATURE
Never trust the thermometer that comes with the incubator, always check it.
The thermometer that came with my incubator was off by 5 degrees.

That could mean life or death for your babies.
With a Forced Air Incubator (fan model) you can get the best hatch rate by keeping the temperature at 99.5º F. throughout the entire incubation period. HOWEVER, when using a Still Air incubator (no fan) at 102º F. The reason for different temperatures is that with a fan model the circulating air warms all around the egg while still air temperatures are warmer at the top of the egg than at the bottom. The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the egg). A high temperature tends to produce early hatches. A consistently cooler temperature tends to increase incubation times and produce weakened chicks. In both cases the total chicks hatched will be reduced. Prepare your incubator and run it for several days before adding eggs, to be positive you are maintaining correct incubation temperature. NOTE: It is common that when adding eggs the temperature will drop but should come back up to correct temperature within an hour or two. Don’t rest the thermometer's bulb touching the eggs or the incubator. Incorrect readings will result. Did you know that 10/13 day old embryos begin to produce excess heat in the incubator? Most large commercial incubators will spend more time cooling than heating!


CALIBRATION! YES! It’s IMPORTANT!
Calibrate the thermometer/s you are using for your Incubator. I use 3 thermometers! You need to make sure your thermometer is reading correctly, Even one degree may cause serious problems with your hatch! A simple method without specialized instruments and knowledge is to compare your thermometer/hygrometer with other devices.

CALIBRATION of thermometers:
Freezing point method.
Fill a glass with crushed ice. Add a LITTLE clean water until the glass is full and stir. Wait 3 minutes then insert the thermometer tip into the ice-filled glass so it’s in the water ice mixture. Wait a minute and if the thermometer reads 32 F then it’s accurate, and if it does not, it requires calibration.
 
Thank you for the information. I didn't realize that the incubator needed to be at 102. I am really feeling like I need to buy an incubator for the next time I do this. There may be less user error with a store bought incubator. Any suggestions on models?
 
Thank you for the information. I didn't realize that the incubator needed to be at 102. I am really feeling like I need to buy an incubator for the next time I do this. There may be less user error with a store bought incubator. Any suggestions on models?
I hate my styro bators! we have made TWO coolerbators! easy and instructions are in my signature!

and yes, two degrees can make a HUGE impact on growth rates and length of incubation. the longer the time the worse off the chicks are : (. CALIBRATION is extremely important and I suggest a fan and a thermostat are WELL WELL worth their money with a homemade bator! you may want to just get a computer fan and thermostat instead of the whole deal! check out the link below in my signature stuff!

again, you can find quite a few of us on the diary thread head on over sometime!
 

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