UPDATE 9/1/11: New pen addition

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by pawsplus, Jun 13, 2011.

  1. pawsplus

    pawsplus Chillin' With My Peeps

    Dec 18, 2008
    Middle TN
    I have plans to add a second 10X10 chainlink run to the existing one. I don't want to remove one wall of the existing run--instead, I want to leave that wall there and have a chicken-access door through the chainlink. The idea is that the chickens would have limited access to the second run, which would, hopefully, then stay somewhat grassy. I am working on mud eradication for the first run, and they would be confined to that run enough to keep them from completing destroying the grassy run. I could keep them off it to re-seed, etc. (I only have 3 chickens, BTW).

    But I cannot figure out how to make a doorway through the chainlink! If I cut a hole in chainlink, it will just be an amorphous hole with no form to it. Nothing to which I can attach a swinging door, etc. Do you see the problem? Does anyone have a solution?
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2011
  2. CelticOaksFarm

    CelticOaksFarm Family owned, family run

    Sep 7, 2009
    Florida - Space Coast
    2x2 framing cut to size and built into two door frames. Place on on each side of the hole and screw together. Mount your door and call it done.
  3. bryan99705

    bryan99705 Chillin' With My Peeps

    Cut a chicken door size hole, frame it with wood (preferably all weather) and install a lockable doggy door or a guillotine style door and a pull rope.
  4. Judy

    Judy Chicken Obsessed Staff Member Premium Member

    Feb 5, 2009
    South Georgia
    Chainlink is odd stuff to work with. I'd put up the two wood frames bolted together before i cut any chain link, myself.
  5. pawsplus

    pawsplus Chillin' With My Peeps

    Dec 18, 2008
    Middle TN
    OK -- that makes sense. Thanks!

    I was also thinking that I could just remove that wall on the current run, and attach the new pen so that the gate on the new pen was in the shared wall b/t the 2 runs. I could just open it when I wanted to give them access (or go in there myself).

    My current run is covered by wire fence, which would means I would have to take off the wire attachments all along that side, but it might really be a better option. I've got feelers out on Craigs list looking for a "new" 10x10x6 run.

    I also plan to put one of these ( http://www.tractorsupply.com/pet-ca...of-cover-kit-for-10-ft-x-10-ft-kennel-1012319 ) over my existing pen (the one they will always have access to) as part of my mud eradication program. [​IMG] That will help keep things dryer there, but the other one will be open to the rain so the grass can grow. Keeping them off it when it's wet/muddy should help protect the grass. [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2011
  6. patandchickens

    patandchickens Flock Mistress

    Apr 20, 2007
    Ontario, Canada
    Bryan, you can't cut holes in chainlink like that (and have it STAY chainlink), you would need to install stretcher bars on either side of where you make the hole (BEFORE you make the hole!!!) and then finish the cut ends of the wires by bending them back to lock them (which requires heavy duty pliers etc and a fair bit of strength, if it is useful-gauge chainlink). What you describe does work on normal welded/woven wire fencing.

    Pawsplus -- are these pre-framed kennel panels (probably)? If so, by far the easiest thing is to detach one corner, pivot one of the panels out til you have a wide enough gap for a doorway, then build a doorway and door out of wood/wire/whatever-you-please and secure it very tightly in that gap. Yeah, you end up with not-exactly-square pens, but hey [​IMG]

    Good luck, have fun,

  7. SheilaV

    SheilaV Out Of The Brooder

    Jun 5, 2011
    I have made panels to serve as gates for traps out of chain link. I suspect that the same process would work for cutting a hole as well. To build the panels, I used regular chain link stretcher bars (the flat ones) as the outer frame. I had to be careful to set them up so the frame was a bit bigger than the square of chain link I was going to use. In my case, I was making panels about 2' by 3' and 3' by 4'. The smaller one had to be cut down and the cut ends folded down to make it the size I wanted. Then I'd lay it out on a table or flat surface, and gustimate the proper lengths for the 4 stretchers so they overlapped at the ends. Then I drilled holes through these overlaps to accept some small bolts. Then it is a matter of slipping the bars into the fencing, and STRETCHING it to keep it taut. You will probably need some help. I'm here to tell you it is tough to do with only 2 hands. But it CAN be done. In your case, it would be a matter of doing the opposite, frame the hole itself. Were I to do it, I would start by fitting my frame into the uncut fence and once the corners were attached, THEN I'd cut out the center. (when you fit it, be sure to not trap the wire from the cutout under the bars so when you pull them out, you don't lose any of the tightness you have worked so hard to conserve.) For the door, you might consider sizing your hole for a pet door or make one. I do not know how pretty it needs to be, or how light/heavy it needs to be. These things would probably dictate what you use. I wish you luck and suggest you get a good pair of gloves before you begin.
    Hope this stirs your imagination a bit.
  8. audioguy

    audioguy Chillin' With My Peeps

    Dec 6, 2010
    Branchburg, NJ
    If you are looking for something lightweight and inexpensive, try 1" Schedule 40 PVC pipe. Easy to work with and very light. It just so happens to have the same outside diameter as regular fence posts so all the hardware fits the same way.

    You can see it here in this photo.
  9. speedy2020

    speedy2020 Chillin' With My Peeps

    Jul 24, 2010
    You can remove a section of chain link. There is no need to cut it off.
  10. Tala

    Tala Flock Mistress

    I have a chainlink "gate" or two. Just drive a T-post where you want the "hinge" to be, wire the chainlink tight to the T-post so the whole wall doesn't fall down when you loosen it, then dis-assemble the chainlink on the other side to make an opening (no need to cut it, just take out one of the wires). Peel/roll the chainlink to one side for entry, then "zip" it back up with spring clips (bolt snap clips, carbiners, etc.) Obviously this isn't 100% predator proof, but it works fine to separate two sections of a run when the chickens are locked up at night.
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2011

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