Utility Genetics

WiderHorizons

In the Brooder
Apr 27, 2019
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Hello everyone! :D

I'm planning/dreaming of my own flock of chickens. I have no chickens, I have no experience with chickens, but I've been lurking for a while and have read quite a lot.

My goal is a self-sustaining and truly dual purpose flock. Somewhat older hens that are good and successful mothers. Pullets/young hens that lay a good sized egg - at least as big as a 'large' egg from the grocery store - and fairly often. Cockerels that reach at least 5 pounds (more meat, not bone) in 6 months on a diet that's mostly/entirely forage. Roosters that are fertile, gentle, and protective of their flocks. In general, chickens that are good foragers, know how to hide from hawks, and rarely, if ever, get sick.

I don't think that's too much to ask. :oops:

Based on breed description, Buff Orpingtons sound like they'd be perfect. Jersey Giants might be a good fit, too, but they might be less likely to brood and too slow growing (though if they produced a fabulous carcass at the end it might be worth it). I liked the sound of Brahmas really well but the feathered feet are a problem, especially here (snow and ice and clay mud), and that's apparently a dominant gene. I would love to get something with a pea or rose comb, but none of those breeds are big (except the Brahma), and I would be afraid of losing the broodiness via crossbreeding.

In all of my researching I have come across several problems.

1. Hatchery stock is often bred more to egg production than meat, even in the 'dual-purpose' breeds. These breeds are therefore often underweight.
2. Hatchery stock is not very likely to sit well, if at all, because this is considered detrimental to egg production.
3. Often dual-purpose breeds are not only physically too small, they also don't produce enough eggs or very large eggs.
4. The genetics tied to broodiness are complicated: you can't just cross two pretty broody breeds and get more broody hens.
5. Breeders are often no better than hatcheries. Sometimes, yes. Most of the time, no. Because birds.
6. Lots of other people have wanted to know the same things, but generally the details in the reviews are very scant.

:barnie

So WHERE anyone got birds that fit the above criteria is very important, because everyone has their own strain of each breed.

Therefore, my question is:

Of those two breeds, can anyone who has had them tell me/the world as much as they can about how they performed, along with where they came from?

If the Buffs/Giants from one hatchery tend to be too small, that would be important. If those from another won't sit at all, or are terrible mothers, that's important. And if there's another breed that would suit better, that would be good to know. I'd love to know anything any breeders could tell me about how to get/preserve these genetics in a flock over time - like what external characteristics would point to a good meaty chicken underneath.

I have no desire to show anything and no particular allegiance to any breed.

Thank you in advance for reading and for any help! :D
 
Jersey Giants might be a good fit, too, but they might be less likely to brood and too slow growing (though if they produced a fabulous carcass at the end it might be worth it)

The BJG would be an impressive meal - but you might want to learn to caponize, so that you can get a very large and tender bird. There are threads on how to caponize.

We have two BJG, they appears to be a very good breed representation (male was nearly 11lbs at 11 months old)..and they grow till around 18 months. So, it is a long time to wait for that meat. The male seems to be a good rooster, but I am not very experienced with roosters. He (the BJG) is more amenable than our BA male, who was getting human aggressive.

Our female BJG has never been broody and is only a moderate layer of good sized eggs. She lays 4-5 eggs a week at the height of laying. Despite lights in the coop for 15 hours of light per day, she took a break from laying around 11 months and finally re-started - maybe she was molting (a few of our other breeds molted at 11 and 12 months).
 
I have read such wonderful descriptions of how the BJG tastes as a capon that I had a very hard time considering the BO. But there are so few people raising BJG, and so many of them say they're not as big as they should be. And, as you say, they don't have as good a reputation as layers, and it does take them a long time to reach that size.

I am now also reconsidering Wyandottes (broody, but 'medium' egg, possibly not a big enough bird), Buckeyes (might not brood, might not be big enough), and Chanteclers (probably won't brood, also maybe not big enough).

It would be wonderful if I could know that I could get the broodiness stabilized genetically after a cross within so many generations (before my initial broody hens died), because I'd vastly prefer to have a smaller comb - especially a rose comb, because I think it would better balance heat and cold.
 
I have read such wonderful descriptions of how the BJG tastes as a capon that I had a very hard time considering the BO. But there are so few people raising BJG, and so many of them say they're not as big as they should be. And, as you say, they don't have as good a reputation as layers, and it does take them a long time to reach that size.

I am now also reconsidering Wyandottes (broody, but 'medium' egg, possibly not a big enough bird), Buckeyes (might not brood, might not be big enough), and Chanteclers (probably won't brood, also maybe not big enough).

It would be wonderful if I could know that I could get the broodiness stabilized genetically after a cross within so many generations (before my initial broody hens died), because I'd vastly prefer to have a smaller comb - especially a rose comb, because I think it would better balance heat and cold.


BJG: Certainly harder to find standard BJG. Ours seem to be good representations of the breed - as noted the male was nearly 11 lbs at under 1yo. When showing at the fair last year (4-H) another family had BJG, too. Interestingly, their BJG (from a "breeder") was very unlike standard - wrong tail shape, wrong tail angle, wrong back shape, and white streaks in the earlobes...but they were pretty large.

You need to learn to caponize. It is quick to do. There is a very good thread on here about the process, so do a search.
 
:D Thank you again! I think I've seen that thread ... I'll make sure to bookmark it, maybe print some of it out for easy reference.
 
@nicalandia Thank you for your response! Could you elaborate on why you think so, and perhaps which hatchery would have the birds you suggest (being as they all breed a little differently - I know every single one sells those breeds)?
 
Buckeyes are pea combed fowl who are good producers of brown eggs throughout the year.
Developed in Ohio, they are one of the best breeds for cool climates. They are also the first and only breed developed by a woman. Buckeyes had difficulty competing with RIR, and are a bit less common.
However, Buckeyes are any excellent breed nonetheless. Though the Reds lay more eggs, Buckeyes are more often utilized for meat than the Reds, though they are quite slow to feather.
Some are not a fan of the drumsticks because the legs are long and the meat is extremely dark.
In fact, most breeders I am acquainted with process their culls.
They have a very docile personality, in fact, of all the roosters I have owned, none have ever attacked me. They are natural leaders of flocks due to their incredible size and drive, however, they are dignified and treat the rest of the flock respectfully.
The hen who I am using as a breeder decided to go broody and I decided to let her hatch some chicks. This is her second clutch she ever hatched, and she did a good job.
The only problem that I can see is that Buckeyes of good quality are hard to find, and I don't know if hatchery birds would have the same size and temperament.
 

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