Ventilation for small coop

Sammster

Crowing
Jul 31, 2021
1,950
8,871
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SE Michigan
We have a small, pre-fab coop. There is only one louvered vent, but it is right at roost level, so will be useless in the winter. I have drilled... oh, probably 100, 10mm holes, in a couple of rows along the top of the tallest wall, and the top of the door headers (on either side of the coop) to help with air flow. I marked the areas with yellow lines in the photo.

This is the coop, with 10x10 attached run (now covered). The vent is on the north side, where the yellow arrow is. This side recieves wind block from a very large shed. The west side of the run will have a clear tarp in the winter. We are in SE Michigan.

The bedding is pine shavings, sprinkled with DPZ. I can't do the deep method, due to space limitations. I employ poop boards, coated with DPZ, that I scrape off, daily.

What do you think of this roof vent (link below)? It's only 12V, and I'm thinking that, since my drilled holes are at the top of the walls, it should
received_1252727735148926.jpeg
n't produce a draft for the chickens. I have a wireless, Thermometer/Hygrometer in the coop with the display unit in my house, so I can monitor the coop at an easy glance.
https://www.amazon.com/Exhaust-Cool...ed11a&pd_rd_wg=Gfxfr&pd_rd_i=B0899KTK16&psc=1
 
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The vent you linked will work, but I have a different suggestion. install 2 or 3 of the static vents on top of coop roof. Preferably at the high front end. This way you vent with no power needed. The vents when installed properly will keep rain out.
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and you can enlarge the openings where you drilled the holes, and install these type of louvers over them . will keep rain out.
The drilled holes are equal to a couple farts in a hurricane worth. Ventilation needs to be easy air flow.
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Nice secure type run BTW :thumbsup I do like it:old

WISHING YOU BEST,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and :welcome
 
Looks like you have a good location for the coop. I see shelter from north winds, and some from the west too. (I'm in Michigan; I have north and west prevailing winds/weather too.)

It looks like you live in a suburban area...? You could still have to deal with raccoons. Your fence is nice and sturdy and will keep them out, but they can still reach through. I suggest you get some 1/2" hardware cloth and have at least 2' of HC around the bottom of the fence.

I also suggest a "predator apron." This is 18-24" of sturdy fence material -- a lot of people use hardware cloth -- lying on the ground around the perimeter of the run. This keeps digging predators, like raccoons, out. They try to dig, can't get through the HC, and give up. If you use something solid, like pavers, they just back up to the outside edge of the hard surface and start digging there.

Another option is to go vertical with the apron, ie, dig down 18-24" and the perimeter of your fence, and install the HC vertically. Way more work, so most people do the horizontal option. Grass will grow up through the HC, and it will "disappear" into the lawn.

Your set up looks really nice. Good job!
 
Can you open up a vent across the entire top of the tallest wall -- where you have the yellow lines in the photo? Also, triangles at the top of each side. You need to be thinking square feet, not square inches. :)

You'll need to put awning over the vents to keep rain and snow out, but that's your best bet to get good airflow in that design.

I used metal siding to make awnings for my outdoor brooder:

0519211937_hdr-jpg.2684668


This person made nicer awnings than I did:

28474c45-23d3-4eb9-80e0-e991cfc4f621-jpeg.2686767


I agree in re: wrapping the run with hardware cloth. Those large gaps will not only let raccoons reach through to grab chicken parts and pull them through the wire but they'll let in rats, snakes, and weasels. :(

Should be good and sturdy against dogs though. :)
 
I also suggest a "predator apron." This is 18-24" of sturdy fence material -- a lot of people use hardware cloth -- lying on the ground around the perimeter of the run. This keeps digging predators, like raccoons, out. They try to dig, can't get through the HC, and give up. If you use something solid, like pavers, they just back up to the outside edge of the hard surface and start digging there.
Thank you, Sally! I did, actually do the apron - after this photo was taken.
 
Can you open up a vent across the entire top of the tallest wall -- where you have the yellow lines in the photo? Also, triangles at the top of each side. You need to be thinking square feet, not square inches. :)

I used metal siding to make awnings for my outdoor brooder:

0519211937_hdr-jpg.2684668
Thank you! ♡ Yes, I believe that's what I'll do - open the area up and use the louvered vents that Rich suggested, in all the places you suggest. I also dded awnings, similar to yours, over my doors (after the above photo was added). Mine were rubber/nylon, though. Had to do a lot of weather-proofing on this coop.
 
Thank you! ♡ Yes, I believe that's what I'll do - open the area up and use the louvered vents that Rich suggested, in all the places you suggest. I also dded awnings, similar to yours, over my doors (after the above photo was added). Mine were rubber/nylon, though. Had to do a lot of weather-proofing on this coop.

The louvered vent covers don't allow as much airflow as plain hardware cloth would -- almost half the area is obstructed by the louvers but they are easier to use. How does the space available compare to the 1 square foot per adult, standard-size hen minimum?
 
The louvered vent covers don't allow as much airflow as plain hardware cloth would -- almost half the area is obstructed by the louvers but they are easier to use. How does the space available compare to the 1 square foot per adult, standard-size hen minimum?
The coop is 44"x53"
 

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