wafer thermostat

Well the one we have has one electronic and one waffer therm.. Both are pulled away from the wires. One blue, one black and one white.. Now we just have to figure out which wire goes to which.
 
Do you have a picture of what the wiring looks like? If so I could ask my husband to look at it when he gets home and see if maybe he would know. He wires A/V and security for a living so he is pretty good with that kind of stuff.
 
The wiring makes no diff. It just completes the circuit . I split the hot wire on the cord, hook one wire to on end and the other wire to the other end of the split ire. The thermostat e opens when the tempter gets to whatever and breaks the circuit ,it cools off,, when it cools down the thermostat makes contact and circuit is joined again and it turns on the heat
 
Be sure to insulate the connections, because one end will always be hot.. Guess you could split the ground wire and get the same results.
 
I just took a good look at one of my 1202 incubators.
Here's what I see. Looking at the back wall where the heat coil mounts.

High on the left side a black wire comes through and connects to the heating coil there.

4 wires come through the wall on the right hand side.

The top blue one attaches to and grounds the hardware cloth guard in front of the coils.

The next one down is white and goes to one side of the primary thermostat.

The other wire from the primary t-stat goes to one side of the secondary t-stat.

The third wire down, a blue one, connects to the other side of the secondary t-stat.

The fourth wire down, another blue one, connects to the right hand end of the heating coil.

This wires the t-stats in series as the 1200 series were built. There are setting instructions on the GQF site, Basically the secondary t-stat is set a couple of degrees higher to prevent a runaway if the primary should fail in the on position. The higher temp would be noted when monitoring the temp and the temperature would be adjusted down to the proper level with the secondary t-stat until the primary could be repaired or replaced.

hth db
 
The wiring is simple, don't get cnfused by not seeing colors on the diagram. The hot lead is the black or red wire in almost all wiring (these are standard colors for AC). The white wire is your neutral. The neutral (white) runs directly to one end of the heating element. Make sure you have a good connection and forget about the white wire.
The hot wire, lets say it's black, goes to a switch under the wafer. there will be two screws on the switch, connect the black wire to one, doesn't matter which, but usually the one closest to where the hot wire comes into the cabinet. Then, run another wire from the other screw on the switch to the other end of the heating element. This should now give you a completed circuit. Plug the unit in and adjust the screw on the wafer until you hear the switch click. There may be a light that can be wired in to show when the heater is "on". To hook this up, connect one end to one side of the heater and the other to the other end of the heater, it should now go on and off as you adjust the wafer screw in and out and hear the switch click
 
Need to mention that some manufacturers will use connectors, you can too if that's what you have, these slip onto little tabs on the devices (switches and heating elements) and these are avail at most hardware and auto supply stores.
 
Having two thermostat wafers in series is easy enough to wire up, just run one wire from one to the other.

hot wire---------0 0-------------0 0--------heater

[the "0" represents the screws on the switch]
 
also, wiring in the fan can be either hooked to the the wires directly as they come into the cabinet or hooked directly to the heater (if you want the fan to turn off with the heating element)


hot --------0 0------------
heater
fan
neutral--------------------


or, for the fan to be on all the time

hot--------0 0------------
fan heater
------------------------------
 

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