Want to raise meat rabbits

[mpape067]

Never raised rabbits, anyone out there who give me some information. I live in coastal Ga., don't even know where to begin to find meat rabbits.

 

[nayeli]

You begin with research. New Zealand and Californian rabbits are supposed to be the best for meat. I have a NZ buck, a chinchilla doe, a mix doe, and an unidentified doe. You can use almost ANY rabbit for meat. If its for your own personal consumption I wouldn't worry to much about it. You can also get registered rabbits... again if its for you and your not selling I wouldn't worry about it.

Believe it or not but some feed stores will be carrying rabbits right now. Otherwise there are facebook groups in most areas for poultry, rabbits, goats, etc. That or try your local craigslist.

As far as cages you have a few options. Rabbits can be colony style, or each can have a seperate cage, or boys in a colony girls in the other except during mating. Many people say colony style is bad, but it depends on your rabbits. Mine get along great and I frequently put them together.

As for cages you can build them yourself or buy them. You also have the choice between a cage or a hutch and indoor or outdoor. I chose to buy mine as my husband wasn't up for building them. Make sure they have trays!!! Rabbits poop and pee ALOT!

Rabbits shouldn't breed before 6 months of age. Introduce your buck and doe before then so they are friendly and it increases the odds the doe will accept the buck. Rabbits are pregnant about a month and you should provide a nest box for them to kindle or give birth.

 

[nayeli]

Oh, you generally eat them between 8-12 weeks...

 

[Silver Bantam]

Since you will be breeding large rabbits for meat ( or so im asumeing ), and depending on what breed you get, they will be ready to breed later then 6 months. You only ever breed small breeds ( such as Netherland Dwarfs) at six months. Bucks will be mature enough for breeding at around 8-10 moths, and does at about 7-10 months. Again, it depends what breed you go with.

To breed the two rabbits, you ALWAYS bring the doe to the bucks cage. If you do the oposite, then they will most likely fight ( the buck will be in the does territory, does are more teritorial), the buck will be too interested in checking out the new cage to bother with the doe etc etc. Never leave the doe and buck together. Some does get very cranky with bucks and will even try to castrate the buck if they get sick of him chaseing her around. So I always where gloves JUST in case they start to fight ( yes we only have tiny dwarfs, but rabbits can do more damadge with their teeth that you'd think ). I genraly let the buck mount and fall off the doe about 3 times, wich just ensures that she is pregnant.

The doe will be pregnant for around 31 days. You will need a nest box for the doe to have her babies in. This will be put in her cage on day 28 of her pregnancy. Large breeds tend to have 5-12 popples ( or new born rabbits) per litter, so there will be peanty of meat if they all survive!

I generaly wean kits at about six weeks old, and then because all of our rabbits are sold ( unless we decide to keep one back for breeding perposes etc), let them go to their new homes when they are eight weeks old.
I would definately recomend joining Rabbit talk ( rabbittalk.com),a forum I have joined that is based on rabbits. There are loads of experienced breeders and people who breed for meat on their, and everyone is very helpful

I hope that helps!

 

[mpape067]

Thanks for the information. Went to a farm swap meet and traded honey for 2 doe's and a buck. Got the buck from a different breeder. Of course wasn't ready so got them in large dog crates as we build the housing for them. The weather turned bad so can't put them out until, I get over head cover for them.

 

[nayeli]

The rule of bringing the doe to the buck isn't absolute or even close. It depends upon your rabbits. For mine I can bring the doe to the buck or him to her, they actually were sharing a cage when they were younger and prefer to be together (although they can't be housed together in case of a second pregnancy). I use the litter method to get all my rabbits used to each others scent and more friendly to each other, that is where you will switch the rabbits cages every few days so they can smell the other rabbits. It was suggested to me by a lady who either lets them play together or does colony style housing.

 

[Silver Bantam]

Yes, and while that is most likely true for many colany style breeders, the majority of people will say bring the doe to the bucks cage. Im not an expert, I am just shareing the ways things have worked best for me- and many many other experienced breeders for that matter. I could also do what you have been able to with your rabbits before, only it was when the doe had not quit reached the angry doe, hormonal, stage. It was also with a completely non aggresive buck, who I think if a rabbit started trying to eat him, he would let them do it barely putting up a fight. If I tried that with the same doe now, my buck would most likely become, at the very least, mamed or worse. It is all about getting to know your rabbits, but I would rather play it safe to start with then end up with a dead and a injured rabbit. Again, these are just my opinions, and ways that I have found work best over my nearly 12 years owning rabbits, and 2-3 years breeding. Every one has different ideas, styles, and ways of doing things, so please lets not argue about such a tiny matter

 

[mpape067]

I know wheat, oats, and the other grass sprouts are good for rabbits. Are lentil sprouts good for them, I already sprout them along with sun flower seeds them for my chickens. What other sprouts are good for them? I like to feed the best food for them. The way I look at it garbage in is garbage out. I've been reading up on them, anything anyone can pass on it helpful. Thank you all.