What did you do in the garden today?

[Sueby]

My Brandywines have grown 8 feet tall, but I top them before they get that tall now. It benefits me in that I don't have to reach that high & by that time in the season it's time for the plant to focus on what it already has. I also pull any buds off them at a certain point too so they can ripen what's there.

Yea, the cost of cattle panels...it's why I'm still using the 8 foot stakes! But a girl can dream.

 

[Sally PB]

I guess so many of us out here (or neighbors) have panels laying around from past projects, we just move them from one project to the next.

I have, or used to have some things like that. What ever happened to my thus-and-so...? Oh yeah, it's being used for this and that.

 

[Acre4Me]

The heavy duty round tomato cages (4 rings) work pretty well here .. BUT they need to have 1 or 2 stakes driven well into the ground that helps to keep them upright. I use cut up trouser socks or thicker pantyhose for tying the plants where needed. I found a bag of the loops used for the square weaving that kids often utilize for weaving for potholders - they sell cotton ones and nylon ones - and the bag I found was nylon, so I'll be using those as ties this year.

Like @BReeder! I found trying to buy the fencing a bit costly, for what I wanted, so I went with the round cages.


One of the best tomato supports I've seen in use, was in windy eastern WA - high dry desert area. The woman (a retired rancher that sold her xx ranch acres and bought a 10 acre plot for her and her husband for their retirement) had a large garden plot, with these supports. She found the instructions in a magazine many years ago. Liked them so much she reproduced them again for this retirement phase. Basically envision a Y with a center post. These are the ends and middle, and these Y's get set into the ground. Now add horizontal connectors between the Y's - several up the vertical axes. So, they get wider on the Y, but can also put some on the center axes. On these horizontal connectors, can hammer in nails or use screws - in pairs - to provide a place to add another level of horizontal connectors between (and perpendicular to) the two sides of horizontal connectors. the nails/screws do not attach the two pieces together, rather, they are there to keep the boards between them, and the boards can be moved out or in, depending on where or how wide you need support. At the end of the season, it all stores flat, the "Y" ends/middle are flat, all the horizontal supports are flat, and nothing was screwed together (other than the Y's). Of course, wood is pretty pricey now, but if can source cheap or free lumber, then it could be an easy/reuseable tomato trellis system. We have not gotten around to making them, but hopefully we can make them now that we have things set out more where we want them.


Brandywines - stopped growing them, was never that impressed... might try them again at some point. I recall growing Purple Cherokee that tasted quite good, and was similar to a Brandywine, but with better production for me, but haven't grown those in a while either.

 

[chickengr]

we have a lot of canes growing everywhere. I pick them up for free and make something like this:

 

[TJAnonymous]

I planted my Brandywines in the first row that will be covered by my cattle panel hoop house. I suppose it can grow up the side of the hoop house which should reach around 7 ft in the center. I'm covering it with bug netting on the outside to keep pests at bay. Anyone see any reason why this wouldn't work?

I can't imagine 7 ft tomato plants....let alone 12 ft. Goodness.....

 

[Birdsonghill]

we have a lot of canes growing everywhere. I pick them up for free and make something like this:

View attachment 2581837View attachment 2581840

I use a lot of cane in my garden as well! More work but cheap and friendly!

 

[spartacus_63]

Oh Goodness. I didn’t think of that- will reconsider. Thanks

Having raised bees for a number of years, bees do not typically become aggressive while harvesting. Most bees will only become aggressive in the defense of the hive and the Queen.

 

[Birdsonghill]

I planted my Brandywines in the first row that will be covered by my cattle panel hoop house. I suppose it can grow up the side of the hoop house which should reach around 7 ft in the center. I'm covering it with bug netting on the outside to keep pests at bay. Anyone see any reason why this wouldn't work?

I can't imagine 7 ft tomato plants....let alone 12 ft. Goodness.....

In your area, many, indeterminate tomato vines, using the two leader method, will reach 6 to 7ft. tall, if you can grow them all season long. They can just begin to hang over the top of the support and continue to trail a bit! The insect netting is great! I often use light row covers in the spring and fall, and heavier ones in the winter for weather and Insect control. I use the lightest in summer over some low crops for insect protection(flea beatles are terrible). A bit of sun protection in the south is good too, in the summer, even for tomatoes. Some market growers here, use 30% shade cloth here (in full sun fields). A low hoop house is awesome and far cheaper than a greenhouse or full size hoop cold frame/house. I grow some lettuces, greens, green onions,carrots and more all winter long here in zone 7, under row covers and/or in my covered raised beds. Happy gardening!

 

[Birdsonghill]

Having raised bees for a number of years, bees do not typically become aggressive while harvesting. Most bees will only become aggressive in the defense of the hive and the Queen.

A great point about Honey bees not being a threat except when stressed about defending the queen, cold and/or hungry from being out in a swarm for too long without finding a suitable home. I figured the postal person was stung by wasp or other bees. But planting a vine or similar over the mailbox will encourage them all and give cover for wasp nest. While a foraging honey bee is seldom a threat, except when directly contacted by the person on accident, that does not stop the fear a person who is allergic may be subjected to. Plant your flowers elsewhere, please. I am a former commercial beekeeper(800 hives with a friend) and Kept them at home for years (up to 30 hives). I routinely received stings from time to time over many years with no problems! I was stung well over a hundred times at once by a swarm that had been on a neighbors plum tree too long. She said it just showed up that morning. Likely not so. I often gathered fresh swarms in my neighborhood without fully suiting up. These guys went mad when I approached close, unlike the norm, and I am now fairly allergic and swell badly to a sting. I gave up my hives. While honeybees in a fresh swarm are safe and too full of honey to sting, that changes with time! It was my fault, my foolish over confidence that got me. Happy Gardens, Honey Bees and Chickens!

 

[Sueby]

I planted my Brandywines in the first row that will be covered by my cattle panel hoop house. I suppose it can grow up the side of the hoop house which should reach around 7 ft in the center. I'm covering it with bug netting on the outside to keep pests at bay. Anyone see any reason why this wouldn't work?

I can't imagine 7 ft tomato plants....let alone 12 ft. Goodness.....

I think that's pretty much what @WthrLady does, grows them up a bent over cattle panel, kind of like an arbor.