She’s a very pretty girl.
Like BigBlueHen has commented, nothing can be done if she doesn’t want to brood in the first place.
If enough people respond to this post, you will find many different approaches to broody hens and broody hens raising, some of which are contradictory.
Aside from the fact that each of us is shaped by our experiences, each hen and pullet does brooding a little differently as well.
For that reason, some of your questions can’t be answered, because we don’t know how your pullet will act, or if she will ever go broody in the first place.
The amount of chicks she can take care of, for example, are another unknown. Most LFs are capable of handling 6 eggs; usually the number of chicks they can care for is slightly higher.
After following the advice of some BYC members, I don’t give newbie hens more than 7 eggs. That’s about what I’d imagine is an ok number for chicks, certainly not more than 10. That’s just my input though, the hen usually has other ideas.
As BigBlueHen has also stated (perfectly, might I add), interfering is one of the worst things a tender can do for their broody.
You post does read a bit like you’re imagining your hen as a tool to raising the chicks, just like a heat plate and an incubator. In reality, it’s a very different thing.
She’s the one who will sit on eggs for around 21 days, expertly turning them, and keeping them at the same temperature by rearranging them around the nest, and sitting heavier or lighter depending on the ambient temperature. She’s the one that once they hatch, they will imprint on, and look for guidance. She’s the one that lives her life as a chicken, and knows better what is right for her chicks.
Between human intervention, and letting the hen take charge, letting the hen do it is almost always the right choice.
The same applies for flock introduction. I’ve had none to very minor issues with letting the hens brood in the same coop, and have their chicks be with the adults from day one. Space helps of course, so does cover.
Seeing as you want to introduce chicks to your broody, that adds an extra margin of “error”. Some hens simply don’t accept chick donations.
Standard procedure says that you should wait at least two weeks, but really closer or three, before you introduce the chicks. The chicks should be as young as possible, but people have had success with introducing even 5 or 6 day old chicks.
For a newbie, it’s best you follow the natural process as closely as possible. We don’t know how this particular pullet will act. She might just abandon them, or try to kill them. A plan B and C for the chicks is always a good idea.
This doesn’t seem to be a popular opinion, but I don’t think a broody’s negative reaction to donated chicks is a good way to tell if she’s a good mother or not.
Lots of things can go wrong when brooding, and just as many usually go right. I put a lot of trust in my broodies, and they tend to do just what they do best, especially if I’m completely hands off. I also believe and second (and sometimes, third) chances.
Good luck!
Like BigBlueHen has commented, nothing can be done if she doesn’t want to brood in the first place.
If enough people respond to this post, you will find many different approaches to broody hens and broody hens raising, some of which are contradictory.
Aside from the fact that each of us is shaped by our experiences, each hen and pullet does brooding a little differently as well.
For that reason, some of your questions can’t be answered, because we don’t know how your pullet will act, or if she will ever go broody in the first place.
The amount of chicks she can take care of, for example, are another unknown. Most LFs are capable of handling 6 eggs; usually the number of chicks they can care for is slightly higher.
After following the advice of some BYC members, I don’t give newbie hens more than 7 eggs. That’s about what I’d imagine is an ok number for chicks, certainly not more than 10. That’s just my input though, the hen usually has other ideas.
As BigBlueHen has also stated (perfectly, might I add), interfering is one of the worst things a tender can do for their broody.
You post does read a bit like you’re imagining your hen as a tool to raising the chicks, just like a heat plate and an incubator. In reality, it’s a very different thing.
She’s the one who will sit on eggs for around 21 days, expertly turning them, and keeping them at the same temperature by rearranging them around the nest, and sitting heavier or lighter depending on the ambient temperature. She’s the one that once they hatch, they will imprint on, and look for guidance. She’s the one that lives her life as a chicken, and knows better what is right for her chicks.
Between human intervention, and letting the hen take charge, letting the hen do it is almost always the right choice.
The same applies for flock introduction. I’ve had none to very minor issues with letting the hens brood in the same coop, and have their chicks be with the adults from day one. Space helps of course, so does cover.
Seeing as you want to introduce chicks to your broody, that adds an extra margin of “error”. Some hens simply don’t accept chick donations.
Standard procedure says that you should wait at least two weeks, but really closer or three, before you introduce the chicks. The chicks should be as young as possible, but people have had success with introducing even 5 or 6 day old chicks.
For a newbie, it’s best you follow the natural process as closely as possible. We don’t know how this particular pullet will act. She might just abandon them, or try to kill them. A plan B and C for the chicks is always a good idea.
This doesn’t seem to be a popular opinion, but I don’t think a broody’s negative reaction to donated chicks is a good way to tell if she’s a good mother or not.
Lots of things can go wrong when brooding, and just as many usually go right. I put a lot of trust in my broodies, and they tend to do just what they do best, especially if I’m completely hands off. I also believe and second (and sometimes, third) chances.
Good luck!
