What kind of budget would I need to make a coop (details in description)

[marvun22]

Here's the situation. My current coop is just some plywood with chicken wire stapled on an going upwards another 15 feet in my barn. It's worked since I had chickens (2012), but it's not cutting it anymore. Counting my 5 chicks I got this spring, I would've had 36 chickens. Slowly, the whole population has been getting picked off. I have 16 left. I kept on fixing what I thought were possible holes but nothing has deterred this predator (still not sure what it is).

Either way, enough is enough. I'm done trying to fix this coop because it's painfully obvious that it's not going to work out.

But now I have to build a new one. But this new one I want to be much better. It's probably going to be a building itself, not a pen built inside my barn. If I have 16 chickens, and I want them to have ample space (so probably a building that would fit 30 chickens to the average owner), how much money would I need? Building wise, I'm just looking at making a basic shed, although probably a big one. I'll probably insulate it. How much am I looking at, roughly?

 

[Ol Grey Mare]

There's really no way to answer how much as there are a lot of variables that can go into building different sheds of the same size - if you want one that most would find acceptable for 30 birds, plan to have 120 square feet of coop floor (add space for feed/water stations if you plan to have feed/water inside) - so 10x12 -- this is *if* there will be an attached run or the birds will be free ranging outside of the coop - if you are considering them being confined at all times to the living space we are planning in this post the area would need to be larger.

That being said - it may well be entirely possible to make much easier and cheaper modifications to what you have now and secure your birds. The first thing I noticed is you have chicken wire listed as a materiel - were any of the changes, upgrades or modifications you have done replacing that with hardware cloth? What about the ground perimeter of the chicken area of the barn - how are things secured at floor level to prevent digging predators? Maybe if you post a photo of what you have now we can help you make it what you want (a safe, secure area for your birds) at a considerable savings to building an entirely new structure. I don't think the issue is the structure you are using now, but rather the modifications you used in making it an area for chickens.

 

[Bryant Redhawk]

Construction wise, the type of building has a lot to do with cost to build, along with trim roofing type and windows, it is possible to get the price way up there.

You are stating a coop sized for 36 birds so figure on a size of 180 sq. ft. just to be on the safe side of sizing.
With a shed roof, your materials cost can be kept lower than if you do a gable roof, metal roofing usually is about the same cost as low end shingles but will last around 20-30 years or more.
Windows can be found used for far less cost than new ones. to help keep cost down.
For predator protection you will need to decide on which type to use and the cost for each can vary a great deal.

I would think that if you planned on a per sq. ft. cost of 8.00 X 180 = $1440.00 then that gives you a decent starting figure, this would go down as you get into used windows, on hand wood (if you have any), look for deals on lumber that isn't perfect and you can save money there, just don't skimp by getting unsound wood.

A block pier foundation is less money than a poured slab or even poured piers.
the only place you need treated lumber is the floor joist and bottom plate, since this is close to the ground. Everything else can be untreated wood, which is cheaper.

The best way to project total cost is to have a construction plan, this way you can come up with a materials list which you can then shop from to find the best deals.

If you look at costs for prebuilt sheds, you will get a good idea of how much the size you want will cost you to build.
Those pre-built sheds include the materials, labor and some markup for profit. Labor is usually charged at around 10-12 per hour on those buildings. markup is normally around 25%

Good luck, and if you need some help, just let me know.

(I built our 8' X 8' shed roofed coop for a total cost of 550.89, this included the roofing tin which we got a real deal on at .98cents per running foot. We used 7/8" OSB for the floor, walls and roof underlay, this was 7.89 per 4 x 8 sheet. the 2 x 4's (8') costs 2.95 each and I used a 24" Spacing of the studs with a single top plate instead of a double. This was because I used 4 x4 post at all corners. The 2 x 6 joists were free from my cousin who had them sawn from downed pine trees on his place. but you can figure on 6 to 8 dollars each for those in 10' length. I also blocked the floor joist for extra rigidity and to strengthen the raised floor. This used up end cuts from the joists.

 

[marvun22]

Construction wise, the type of building has a lot to do with cost to build, along with trim roofing type and windows, it is possible to get the price way up there.

You are stating a coop sized for 36 birds so figure on a size of 180 sq. ft. just to be on the safe side of sizing.
With a shed roof, your materials cost can be kept lower than if you do a gable roof, metal roofing usually is about the same cost as low end shingles but will last around 20-30 years or more.
Windows can be found used for far less cost than new ones. to help keep cost down.
For predator protection you will need to decide on which type to use and the cost for each can vary a great deal.

I would think that if you planned on a per sq. ft. cost of 8.00 X 180 = $1440.00 then that gives you a decent starting figure, this would go down as you get into used windows, on hand wood (if you have any), look for deals on lumber that isn't perfect and you can save money there, just don't skimp by getting unsound wood.

A block pier foundation is less money than a poured slab or even poured piers.
the only place you need treated lumber is the floor joist and bottom plate, since this is close to the ground. Everything else can be untreated wood, which is cheaper.

The best way to project total cost is to have a construction plan, this way you can come up with a materials list which you can then shop from to find the best deals.

If you look at costs for prebuilt sheds, you will get a good idea of how much the size you want will cost you to build.
Those pre-built sheds include the materials, labor and some markup for profit. Labor is usually charged at around 10-12 per hour on those buildings. markup is normally around 25%

Good luck, and if you need some help, just let me know.

(I built our 8' X 8' shed roofed coop for a total cost of 550.89, this included the roofing tin which we got a real deal on at .98cents per running foot. We used 7/8" OSB for the floor, walls and roof underlay, this was 7.89 per 4 x 8 sheet. the 2 x 4's (8') costs 2.95 each and I used a 24" Spacing of the studs with a single top plate instead of a double. This was because I used 4 x4 post at all corners. The 2 x 6 joists were free from my cousin who had them sawn from downed pine trees on his place. but you can figure on 6 to 8 dollars each for those in 10' length. I also blocked the floor joist for extra rigidity and to strengthen the raised floor. This used up end cuts from the joists.

Thanks for the base number. Right now I'm gathering info to see if I have enough money where I can start this very soon or if I'll have to hold off for a little bit.

 

[Bryant Redhawk]

One of the easiest ways to get lumber counts is to go to a place that sells the premade sheds. Take some paper and a pen/pencil then note the dimensions of each type of lumber they used and how many; such as 2x6 rafters = 10. By doing this you will have a very good idea of just how much lumber of each size you will need; 2x4's 2x6's perhaps even 2x8's will be used in the construction. Then don't forget the "Hurricane" clips, Joist Hangers, Rafter hangers and Corner Braces which while not mandatory in every state, do give good strength to any project such as shed or coop or barn, etc. They also make putting up a building a lot easier.

If you live where there are high winds (like we do) then always use the Hurricane clips so the roof is mechanically fastened to the walls at every roof joist, one per joist per side will do it but if you like overkill, two per joist per side will make sure the whole building has to lift instead of the roof just ripping off.

OSB or Plywood on top of the roof joist does two things, 1. it strengthens the joists and whole building. 2. it allows you to use a lighter gauge metal roof (should you go that way). If you are going to use shingles, then you are going to have to use this material as well as roofing felt paper (I prefer 30# since it is far more durable than the 15# and the costs isn't really much more than the 15#).

If you want solid construction then Screws are the way to go instead of nails, nails are fast and cheap but screws hold better and won't loosen over time the way nails will. Also, screws used on the flooring are spaced every 8" while nails are spaced every 6" unless they are the expensive twist subfloor nails.