What kind of roofing?

[CluckyInKY]

The only problem I see with metal is it sweats and drips water. Plus it does rust. (I live at the coast, everything rusts)

I wonder about using a sheet of exterior grade sheeting like T111. And paint it. hang slightly higher on 1 side for drainage.

I do love to up cycle stuff, but my time is more valuable gold! So if you find something you like, go for it. Just remember not bring in any existing "issues", like mites ...

Your current structure looks like you have a pretty good handle on things. Nice structure. I can not believe how fast the cost adds up, ask me I know! 

Good luck!

Thanks for complimenting my structure! I have never built anything in my life- and my husband has never built anything that needed to be somewhat "pretty" lol
I have done much of this by myself- my husband is a corn & soybean farmer and he just doesn't have time to help much. I even drew up the plans myself! I have my husband the list of needed materials and I had exactly the right amount of lumber to get to this point (which is all I had calculated, since the roof has always been my biggest questionable factor). I am pretty impressed with myself. Haha
One day the neighbor stopped by because he was concerned when he saw me using a power saw (I don't even know if that's the correct name for it). The few neighbors we have see me as a "city slicker" because my job requires business professional attire haha
The T111 is a good idea. I'm going to look into that!

 

[Dmontgomery]

Great job for a first time builder! I'm going to add my opinion for what little it is worth. Probably the cheapest set up would be 2x4's at the top of each side wall (left and right looking at your photo) and one in the middle. Nail them up on edge. Buy 1-10' long and 1-8' long. Cut them so that they will overhang front and back about 10". Get 3-1x4's and screw them flat over the 2x4's along the front wall, back wall, and in the middle. Either find some used metal at a local farm or buy 5-10' pieces of "galvalume" sheet metal at Lowe's. Check Google or YouTube to see how to attach it properly. Total cost for all brand new material should be less than $100. Half that if you can find repurposed materials.
Yes the sheet metal will sweat but not too much that you will notice. Make sure you slant your roof so that the back side is at least 4" shorter than the front wall. This is a 1 on 12 roof pitch for rain runoff. If you overlap the metal enough it will never leak. "Galvalume" won't rust for a long, long time in your area.
The clear plastic roofing panels are better but cost twice as much and can become brittle and break if a limb falls on them. Better in that they let in the light and are prettier.

 

[CluckyInKY]

Great job for a first time builder! I'm going to add my opinion for what little it is worth. Probably the cheapest set up would be 2x4's at the top of each side wall (left and right looking at your photo) and one in the middle. Nail them up on edge. Buy 1-10' long and 1-8' long. Cut them so that they will overhang front and back about 10". Get 3-1x4's and screw them flat over the 2x4's along the front wall, back wall, and in the middle. Either find some used metal at a local farm or buy 5-10' pieces of "galvalume" sheet metal at Lowe's. Check Google or YouTube to see how to attach it properly. Total cost for all brand new material should be less than $100. Half that if you can find repurposed materials.
Yes the sheet metal will sweat but not too much that you will notice. Make sure you slant your roof so that the back side is at least 4" shorter than the front wall. This is a 1 on 12 roof pitch for rain runoff. If you overlap the metal enough it will never leak. "Galvalume" won't rust for a long, long time in your area.
The clear plastic roofing panels are better but cost twice as much and can become brittle and break if a limb falls on them. Better in that they let in the light and are prettier.

Thanks for your input & special thanks for adding pictures- I'm a visual person, so I think I could tackle this now!
The front wall is framed at 6' and the back wall is at 5' so I should have a good incline. We haven't cut the osb to go along with the slanted roof yet, but didn't want to regret it if I decided to do something different since I wasn't 100% sure what I'm doing.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

 

[Dmontgomery]

You didn't ask this question but it may come up later...
If the roof line needs to be predator proof, here is one option:

Nail a 1x4 fascia board along the front and back 2x4's

Staple wires along the fascia board, extending to the side of the coop

This option gives maximum ventilation in hot climates like down here. If ventilation won't be a concern, you can just cut boards to slide in between the 2x4's to fill in the gaps. If you don't have any predator problems, just leave it open.

 

[Leigti]

Did you use clear or no? Is it a corrugated material? Thanks so much for your help!

I didn't use clear because I thought it might make it too hot in there. So mine is kind of an off gray color. If corrugated means does it have little ridges, yes it is bumpy like a wave. My roof just has off frame of one by threes and then the special little ridges you can buy for the roofing panels. No insulation or plywood or anything like that. This not being able to post pictures is driving me crazy!

 

[aart]

You didn't ask this question but it may come up later...
If the roof line needs to be predator proof, here is one option:

Nail a 1x4 fascia board along the front and back 2x4's


Staple wires along the fascia board, extending to the side of the coop



This option gives maximum ventilation in hot climates like down here. If ventilation won't be a concern, you can just cut boards to slide in between the 2x4's to fill in the gaps. If you don't have any predator problems, just leave it open.

Yes, on large overhang with open eaves......but use 1/2" hardware cloth instead of chicken wire and attach with screws and washers rather than staples.
If you make your fascia a bit longer you can screw the HC to the back of fascia.
Check out My Coop page, I did ~50 feet of open eaves..

 

[CluckyInKY]

Yes, on large overhang with open eaves......but use 1/2" hardware cloth instead of chicken wire and attach with screws and washers rather than staples.
If you make your fascia a bit longer you can screw the HC to the back of fascia.
Check out My Coop page, I did ~50 feet of open eaves..

I actually got the 1/4" HC bc the thought of a raccoon reaching in & grabbing my babies while they sleep horrifies me! Thanks for the tips!

 

[Dmontgomery]

The HC is by far the better way to go. If done right it is the best predator proof that allows venting. If I hadn't already been way over budget I would have done the whole thing in 1/4" wire. That way I wouldn't even have had to worry about snakes getting the eggs.
We have 5 dogs patrolling the "compound" that keep possums, coons, coyotes, etc away. About the only thing they don't handle are hawks swooping down and snakes. They alert me when the snake comes up but they don't kill them I have to do that. I haven't figured out how they can be in the house with me and sense a snake in the yard!?!?

 

[TerryH]

I would suggest that if you are going to have much snow load at all that you would want more rafters. 24" on center would be the max. If you have any chance of snow load the structure has to be able to withstand that weight. A few more 2x4's are pretty cheap insurance against the roof caving in. If you are concerned with the roof sweating you can sheath over the rafters with OSB or plywood, cover that with roofing felt and screw the sheets of metal down to the OSB or plywood. The felt will protect the wood from any sweating. The sweating should be eliminated or very much reduced by sheeting the roof anyway. That's what we did on our coop.





Our run construction has the metal screwed to 2x4 strapping attached perpendicular to the rafters instead of the sheeting and tar paper.

 

[CluckyInKY]

I would suggest that if you are going to have much snow load at all that you would want more rafters. 24" on center would be the max. If you have any chance of snow load the structure has to be able to withstand that weight. A few more 2x4's are pretty cheap insurance against the roof caving in. If you are concerned with the roof sweating you can sheath over the rafters with OSB or plywood, cover that with roofing felt and screw the sheets of metal down to the OSB or plywood. The felt will protect the wood from any sweating. The sweating should be eliminated or very much reduced by sheeting the roof anyway. That's what we did on our coop.





Our run construction has the metal screwed to 2x4 strapping attached perpendicular to the rafters instead of the sheeting and tar paper.

That's a really good looking roof! I buttered up to my dad today and I he is going to assist me with my last step (the roof)- he just recently helped with the construction of his HUGE pole barn- 2 car garage/bay plus workshop on one end, and porch/full kitchen/full bathroom on the other (for summer use when they have everyone over to swim in the pool). When I showed him everything that I had already done on my own, he knew that I was seriously stumped on this last part. Doesn't matter how old I get, still daddy's little girl. Ha!