what to seal my coop with?

[geoff40]

Kari
I wouldn't bother with the tyvek paper wrap or insulation. Just get it painted, it'll be easier if you first paint with some primer. Use exterior paint. A lot of paint counters that mix will have seconds, returned or refused paint because the color wasn't right. Usually you can get it for about half price, but again you want exterior. Take what you can find for color.
The caulking will say right on it, all weather, latex, etc. and those blocks you are thinking of are called pavers. I also agree that you want it off the ground, at least by a few inches. I would almost suggest turning that thing on its side instead of upright. You could pretty cheaply get some cinder blocks to build on. A frame of 2 by 4s under it would support it well.
You want more paint on the floor, a lot more, use a brush, versus spray paint. Craigslist is a good place to find used materials. If in your travels you see houses, garages, etc., getting renovations or built outright, etc, stop by and ask if they have any demo'd wood you might take. You'll get told no more often than not, but it probably won't take long before you get told yes and find a good haul.

 

[cravenchx]

Geoff40 said,
"I would almost suggest turning that thing on its side instead of upright"


I thought about that too!!

 

[Ole rooster]

That's it. Then work your way to the top. The only other thing to do first is to take care of the corners. Whatever you plan to use for trim, put in on first on the corners. If you're using the same boards it will be pretty straight forward. What I would do is measure the depth of the two boards laying on the ground where they lap. Whatever that measurement is extend the lapped boards beyond the corner that much. On the corresponding wall let those lapped boards but against the the extended ones. Get those as tight as possible. The gap that you have left just use some gray caulk to fill it in. That not the way houses are done but for your purpose I think it will be fine.

On a house beveled siding is used. That just means a 3/4 thick board is cut on the diagonal at the saw mill so you end up with a board that is 1/4 inch on the top and 1/2 on the bottom looking at from the profile. That is the end. With that when it's installed the lapped part in 1/2 over a 1/4 so the max thickness for a corner molding of 3/4 inch. But you coop doesn't need to be that presise. Doing it this way the corners are sealed against the 3/4 molding but still could stand caulking.

If you for me to help more I think if you pm me and we'll discuss it that way. I know folks probably are getting tired of reading my post thinking I'm just a know it all. So to save them time and anguish if you like we'll discuss it that way.