Wheel lifts for tractor?

Flock In Texas

Songster
7 Years
Aug 7, 2016
202
115
166
Texas
I've seen some tractors with levers to drop the wheels on a tractor to raise it for moving. Does anybody have any good pictures or resources for this?

I want to get this straight first before I make the tractor heavy. The tractor will be 4x8 and about 6' tall. I suspect it will be pretty heavy because I plan to trick it out.
 
I recently built my tractor coop. It's heavy but I don't have to lift it. I just need a push to get it moving. I level it with a portable jack. The run is removable in panels. It's about 4'x5.5' and 5' high. The 2x4s in the back are the handle for tilting and moving.

 
Your chicken tractor sounds like it will be on the heavy side and I doubt if that illustrated mounting will hold up.
I am thinking You could also attach wheels and one straight axle to a piece of wood stock to allow the wheels to turn freely outside the width of the sides (the wood stock would have to be thick enough to allow the wheels to not make contact to the ground when at rest) hinge the wood to the front of your tractor upside down. When you want to move your tractor merely lift the front of the unit and hinge the wheels under your tractor and away you go.

A picture is worth a thousand words but unfortunately I do not have one.
I think you are right. I've seen what you are describing and think I will go that direction. I'll have to include handles to lift that end to engage the wheels, but it will be more sturdy

I recently built my tractor coop. It's heavy but I don't have to lift it. I just need a push to get it moving. I level it with a portable jack. The run is removable in panels. It's about 4'x5.5' and 5' high. The 2x4s in the back are the handle for tilting and moving.



I like your design, but I want to put a 32 s.f. grazing area under the tractor. I will start out with 4 chickens, but want to be able to expand to 10 or so once I can either free range in my fenced 1/2 acre back yard or build a detachable grazing area. That will depend on how my dogs welcome the flock. I will secure the grazing floor with hardware cloth, since the girls will have free access to and from the grazing area 24/7. I will need to lift it to get the bottom hardware cloth out of the grass for moving.

My design will have a 5 gallon water bucket and a 5 gallon feed bucket inside the coop. The buckets will be plumbed to the grazing area for feeding and watering below. Both buckets will have fill ports plumbed to the outside for easy access. The 2 buckets and 4 nesting buckets will be placed with 3 at each end. Each end will have access doors to do maintenance and get eggs. A maintenance door will be on the end of the grazing area near the water and feed dispensers and on the long side for maintenance and cleaning. The middle floor of the main house will be hardware cloth to help ventilate and I will cover it with flooring during the Winter for warmth. Heat is my biggest concern since I live in TX. Roosting will be above the buckets and across top of the coop. I should be able to get about 20 linear feet of roost inside the coop.

You can see that that will be a lot of weight. It will include eye bolts with detachable guy wires at the 4 upper corners to protect from high winds. I will take lots of pictures during construction. My dad offered to help me build it. He framed high end custom homes for 50 years, so I think it will look nice as well. He will make sure I build it to last and not rot. My budget is $400ish.

I'd be dishonest if I didn't mention my inspiration for the design of my coop. Here is a picture of my inspiration by Okie Critters. I'm just rearranging it a little and adding some features.

29eb0807b405ce9e0db742037967f08c.jpg
 
I have about 48 SQ FT for the attached run on my coop. The coop itself has a wood floor and is about 8" above the ground. The wheels are 20" diameter with a solid tire. The photo shows underneath the coop where the wheel is attached. I used a 3/4" machine bolt for an axel
 

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