IVRN
Songster
Sorry for the typos. I can’t figure out how to fix them in this forum.Hi! Great questions.
1. I would definitely NOT bring them home a couple at a time.
Reasons:
-the flock bonds and they start to establish pecking order very young. Continuously adding new chicks is very stressful to the flock even at a young age.
-they keep each other warm as they are brooding . 1-2 together isn’t enough and you risk one or both drying.
(Also for future reference NEVER introduce one single pullet or hen at a time. If you add to your flock later always add in twos so they have each other. “safety in numbers” is true for chickens. One single hen will get rejected and possibly killed by the others.)
-chicks grow fast. Bringing home a baby chick and putting it in the same brooder as a three week old risks the life of the baby due to size difference. The older chicks have established a pecking order already and they may reject or pick on the younger one-and they are big enough at that age to hurt or kill a new chick.
-the younger ones can’t fight for food against a larger chick. The older chick will always win and sometimes run the younger ones off and the chick could fail to thrive or die. Yes, chickens become territorial at a very young age and will compete for food and water amongst themselves. They don’t always play nice.
2. If you want a huge variety of types probably using a local feed store or Murray McMurrey is a good idea for the reason you stated. I started my flock with a feed store in the spring and they had a dozen varieties from which to choose.
Another idea is to look on Facebook under local chicken groups and join and find out if you have local breeders. You may be able to obtain a variety from around town if you are willing to drive to various places. But they need to be within a week of being hatched all at the same time.
3. If you want some specialty eggs, like dark marans eggs or blue eggs and the feed stores don’t have them, I have in the past found a local breeder who carries the breed I want and planned to go to the feed store when the breeder has their new chicks available. Then I just pick them up the within a day or so of each other.
4. Be sure to read about each breed and think about what you are trying to accomplish:
-If you want pretty eggs, get those types of chicks (like a Welsummer, Marans, Blue egg layers) now as it’s easier than adding pullets later.
-read ahead about what types do well in the cold as I see you are in the northeast. Not all breeds are suited for how cold it gets there. Small combed birds do better in terms of avoiding comb frostbite. A quick google search will inform you.
-some lay in winter and some breeds don’t- just a thing to think about. do you care if you don’t have eggs all winter? Certain breeds are famous for laying in the winter. Do you want daily eggs? Some only lay a couple a week and some are bred for production.
5. Think about predators if it’s going to be an issue. Some birds are definitely considered more predator savvy. If you don’t have a rooster you may but want a bunch of chickens who aren’t as good at predator alertness.
Lastly, there are typically more dominant breeds and more docile breeds. It’s nice to think of having just one n of each kind but docile breeds can be picked on mercilessly by the more assertive types. My neighbor had a Barred Rock completely scalped between breakfast and lunch by the more aggressive Rhode Island Reds in her flock. Examples of docile breeds are Easter eggers, Barred Rock and Orpingtons. Whereas Rhode Island Reds are very assertive. I got around that by making sure I had at least two of the docile breeds. They hang out together and always have each other. It’s true to some extent with chickens “birds of a feather flock together”. When you read about each breed they will often say if it is a docile breed that tends to get picked on. The hatchery may not say so but do a chick google search and you can find it.