Whole buncha questions

[U_Stormcrow]

As a practical matter, while Code doesn't require nail (or screw) penetration, if you use the appropriate materials, you will have penetration. Its because the point of the nail or the screw has no holding power, so they want to ensure that the nail or screw is long enough to develop the full holding power thru the material (meaning thickest part of the shaft, all the way thru). Now, typically, depending on engineering, 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" of penetration is considered "adequate" - less with polycarbonates, because polycarbonates can't take the same loads - there about 3/4" is considered fine). Asphault shingls are usually affixed to decking - which is thinner, so they use a lot more nails. So if the material is thicker, you can avoid penetration. 1" thick decking, for instance, instead of 1/2" or 2x4 purlins instead of 1x4s.

Those things increase weight, add nothing to (fastener holding) strength, and drive up costs.

My birds don't hit the screws penetrating from my roofing in my raised coop, and the roof is quite low at the edges. You might be overthinking it.

I've personally done a lot of wiring for someone who is NOT an electrician. Enough to pass several building inspections, and I'm doing my own wiring for my house I'm building. Never failed an inspection. SO much can go wrong, there are so many things to account for in the existing wiring that I would never offer how-to advice on the internet. Except to say that a long-term plan involving an extension cord needs to be reconsidered.

Sorry. I'm sure that's not what you wanted to hear.

 

[Hamstermann]

As a practical matter, while Code doesn't require nail (or screw) penetration, if you use the appropriate materials, you will have penetration. Its because the point of the nail or the screw has no holding power, so they want to ensure that the nail or screw is long enough to develop the full holding power thru the material (meaning thickest part of the shaft, all the way thru). Now, typically, depending on engineering, 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" of penetration is considered "adequate" - less with polycarbonates, because polycarbonates can't take the same loads - there about 3/4" is considered fine). Asphault shingls are usually affixed to decking - which is thinner, so they use a lot more nails. So if the material is thicker, you can avoid penetration. 1" thick decking, for instance, instead of 1/2" or 2x4 purlins instead of 1x4s.

Those things increase weight, add nothing to (fastener holding) strength, and drive up costs.

My birds don't hit the screws penetrating from my roofing in my raised coop, and the roof is quite low at the edges. You might be overthinking it.

I've personally done a lot of wiring for someone who is NOT an electrician. Enough to pass several building inspections, and I'm doing my own wiring for my house I'm building. Never failed an inspection. SO much can go wrong, there are so many things to account for in the existing wiring that I would never offer how-to advice on the internet. Except to say that a long-term plan involving an extension cord needs to be reconsidered.

Sorry. I'm sure that's not what you wanted to hear.

Actually, the advice about thickness of materials and penetration was very helpful. Thank you! I probably am overthinking it - I do have that tendency,vrspescially when trying to protect someone/something.

The multi-pronged extension cord solution is simple and would work, I'd just like to mount the outlets somehow so that cords don't get kicked, knocking plugs out, so that snow can't get inside the plugs, and so that curious chickens don't peck into the plugs and hurt themselves. Again, probably overthinking it but still want to hear all the wisdom our community has to share so I appreciate what you and killerbees have said.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

**IF** I was to do it, I would hardwire the coop. and I would hardwire it right back to the main electric distribution panel. But if my local code enforcement was a PitA, or my main distribution panel was a long long ways away, or I had no power on site whatsoever, I would STILL hardwire the coop.

But I would use a "Power Inlet" box, weather protected, externally mounted, where I could then affix my extension cord, attach my genny, or the like. Cheapest options look like this. Note there is no weather protection designed into the plug itself. More professional options look like this, but often require a specialized (locking) plug, and can be left plugged in in bad weather - that's a NEMA-rated outdoor enclosure.

 

[Hamstermann]

This is obviously still under construction. I'm still working on purlins and rakes, my wife is still painting, and we have the nesting box door built but not hinged or attached. We'll probably take the wheels off it too - it's heavy enough that we'd need something motorized to move it, and we don't have a tractor or 4-wheeler and I'm not excited about driving across my newly installed and leveled lawn with my truck. If we do take the wheels off of it, we'll probably put down hardware cloth to prevent anything from digging in.

It looks like the perch is lower than the top of the nexting boxes, but really they're about level. If anything, the perch is an inch or two higher.

 

[Hamstermann]

Have any of you in cold, windy climates used a gear driven automatic door like this one? Does it let enough wind into the henhouse to be a concern in the winter?