Wintering the coop

[patandchickens]

Quote:
It does, though

I mean, a 100w bulb is almost half the heat output of a 250w "official heat lamp" bulb.

Besides, with the southern windows, you'll likely need the supplemental heat over the night time hours, in which you wouldn't really want a light on anyways.

Except if you are wanting to extend daylength, in which case putting the light on for however many extra hours before dawn very neatly kills two birds bang-square-on-the-head with one stone

It varies of course, but many peoples' chickens are fine in INDOOR coop temperatures down to 0 F or even -20 F or lower, so while people should keep an eye on their own flocks, obviously, it is probably not a good idea for a new chickenkeeper to *assume* their chickens will need heat at those sorts of temperatures.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat​

 

[bigoakhunter]

Pat,

I agree with you! Should help with winter egg production and provide some heat.

I just bought a outdoor type timer to use to add morning light for the Northern Michigan winters.

Used a couple of tips from your ventilations page when building my coop.

Dave

 

[vermontgal]

Quote:
CityChook, I'm shocked at how cold it got in your coop with the 250 watt bulb. I tried a 250 watt bulb one night last winter, and it was 45°F in the coop (when it was -15°F outside). I thought that was spoiling the girls way too much. I backed off to the 100 watt heat emitter. When it was -30°F outside, it was 8°F in the coop. That's close to a record low for Montpelier (record is -34°F).

 

[CityChook]

Quote:
CityChook, I'm shocked at how cold it got in your coop with the 250 watt bulb. I tried a 250 watt bulb one night last winter, and it was 45°F in the coop (when it was -15°F outside). I thought that was spoiling the girls way too much. I backed off to the 100 watt heat emitter. When it was -30°F outside, it was 8°F in the coop. That's close to a record low for Montpelier (record is -34°F).

I originally purchased the 100 watt and it didn't make a blip on the radar. So I ended up upgrading to the 250 watt. Luckily, I didn't notice much of a change in the electricity bill and it kept the girls comfortable overnight when the temps are usually the worst.

Yeah, it only gets into those nasty temperatures for a couple of weeks, usually in January, but it's pretty miserable when it occurs. I have found that when I supplement with a red heat bulb, it heats the coop up pretty quickly. I only use that bulb when it gets to -15F or so as I found that the red light keeps the girls up at night and makes them pick at each other (crabby maybe??).

 

[TipsyDog]

Quote:
This will be my first winter. I have the red bulb heat lamp. I thought the red light will allow them to sleep and white light keeps them awake? Do I have it backwards? I used the red lamp in the brooder and it was quite successful.

 

[CityChook]

Quote:
This will be my first winter. I have the red bulb heat lamp. I thought the red light will allow them to sleep and white light keeps them awake? Do I have it backwards? I used the red lamp in the brooder and it was quite successful.

The red bulb heat lamp is probably the most universal heat lamp. I also used it in the brooder with no problems. However, I found that with the grown chickens, it tended to keep them up at night and pick on each other. Maybe they just needed time to get used to it? I don't know. I do still use it when the temperatures are super cold and I really need to work hard to heat up the coop. If I had to choose between red and white light, I'd still choose red.

I use a 250 watt ceramic heat emitter bulb. You can find them in larger pet stores in the reptile section. I bought mine on ebay. Instead of heating the overall air in the coop, it heats surfaces under the bulb. I placed the fixture over the roost and it keeps the girls warm at night when it's coldest outside. It will heat up the air to some degree, but not a lot. I like this bulb because it does not give off any light - only warmth.

 

[TipsyDog]

CityChook: Ok, I understand. Unfortunately my girls roost is just under the roof, so I can't put a ceramic lamp over them. Too bad, that sounded like a great idea.

I think unless it is very cold, I will just close up the coop from all drafts, etc., and just leave the upper vents open and see how it goes this year. I selected cold hardy breeds and have installed a remote thermometer so I can check coop temps from my kitchen. I am also

praying for a mild winter after our useless wet summer!

 

[big greg barker]

Ok, I live in Maine also, and this is how I do my chickens. All 45.
Make sure they are in a draft free coop with enough room for them. Provide a roost that is wide enough for them to sit on comfortably. Mine have a 2 x 3 the total width of the coop.
Make sure they have enough food available all the time.
At night, give them cracked corn, it helps them produce heat through digestion. Sometimes, we give them warm oatmeal and yogurt.
For water, I made a water heater from a cookie tin and 15 watt light bulb. I found the plans for it right here on BYC. A one gallon waterer fits on them perfectly, and keeps the water thawed even on the coldest nights.
I have power in my coop because I work from dark till dark, and wanted to see what I am doing. I have my lights set on timers and they come on just before dark. and stay on until 8:30 or so. They come on at 4:30 am and shut off after sunrise. The biggest reason I have lights on at that time is to encourage eggproduction by simulating 16 hours of daylight, and this works great. 2 60 watt bulbs.
There is no insulation in my coop. It's just dry, draft free, and roomy enough for them to hang out in if the weather is nasty. There are a couple windows for natural light.
My chickens are fat and sassy, and yours will be, too.
they are pretty adaptable

 

[BigPeep]

Additional question. I don't know if I am going to have time to get a run up in addition to building a coop before the snow hits and the ground gets too hard for posts. I am wondering if they can get by without. I would be putting 20 birds in an 8X8 coop 7 ft high on the South end and 5 ft high on the North. Most of them will be just hitting six months in Jan. I have Orpingtons and Australorps.

Will I need to prop the windows open for ventilation even at night? I was planning on putting in salvaged windows and hinging them at the top with something on the bottom to hold them open at various degrees depending on temps. a

Also, a duck question. Will my five Cayugas be OK with a converted wooden packing crate 6ft X 4 ft and 3 ft high? It will also be sheltered on North and West sides by barn buildings. So far they have no interest in even going in it.

 

[CityChook]

Quote:
There are plenty of people here at the BYC who don't have a run. Just remember that beasties don't go away in the wintertime. Everybody has to eat. If you free range your birds, expect to lose a few. I'm not sure I'd want to be responsible for herding 20 heavy breed chickens into the coop, but to each his own.

Quote:
I don't know where you live. Here in MN, it's too cold to prop open the windows. My closable vents are located up high in the gables to keep cold air from blowing on the girls. And when it gets REALLY cold, I even close those. But only temporarily.

Can't help with your duck question. Hope this helps.