Winterize Ark Style Coop and Run with No Bottom

RedStarLady1207

In the Brooder
7 Years
Jun 4, 2012
69
0
29
Maryland, USA
With this rain today it has been a pain to cover the entire coop with a sheet of plastic (I'm running fans) but there is also much water that puddles, but yesterday I moved the coop to a higher area. My problem this winter may be snow and rain and cold weather all of which is somewhat unpredictable in my area. Sometimes we have very mild winters and a few years back over 40" of snow for weeks.

I was thinking I could maybe buy several bales of straw and lay them on top of a large tarp, flat, end to end, and then wrap the tarp over top the bales and tuck them all in to keep the straw dry and then lay large sheets of plywood on top to make a flat bottom. Then, cover the plywood with a rolled heavy rubber (non-slip type), and then lay the run and coop on top of it all. The rubber flooring would be cut to just fit inside the run/coop bottom but not have either sitting on top of it. My plan was to, on nice days, take down the coop part (it's portable - 66 lbs with handles) and pull out the rubber from the run and the coop, and throw out all the bedding on it, and replace with fresh. While doing this the chickens can run about in the chicken yard.

I also plan to put clear plastic, very heavy duty and UV protected type, and cut to size and staple gun it to the sides of the ark run/coop to keep out the wind. Also, the end of the run, partially cover but to allow some air to enter. My ark coop has a bottom ladder so there is not much I can do about updrafts during the day, but at night I pull the ladder up. I am not worried my hens will get cold as they will keep each other warm in the roost area. I may put something on top of the A-frame coop top to keep out water as it leaks sometimes. Hindsight being 20/20 I wish I had not bought an ark style. I may, instead of clear plastic on the sides of the coop have wooden squares cut to size to fit snugly into the open wire sides and put handles on them. Ideally, I'd like to have both wood and Plexiglas inserts like that as sometimes I wonder if the sun is too much it could get hot in there during the day (like a green house, yet I like the light. Maybe one side wood and one side Plexiglas's?

There really is limited access when the run and coop are pushed together. I have a top lid but I have to pull the coop back at least 8 inches for the lid not to hit the handles of the coop (the guy that built the run cut the lid in but he didn't have the coop there when he built it so he did his best. P.S. I'm not allowed to have chickens so they are hidden away in the back part of the yard with woods, my fence and house blocking the view (also a berm). I just want my chickens, who will be spending much time inside, and if we get endless rain or a big snow, I have to have that coop off the ground. I cannot build any type of platform and thought straw bales would work nicely, and also insulate from the bottom.

Has anyone every lifted their coop up on straw bales for the winter? Any pitfalls anyone can think of I might have missed? You can see my coop and run on my photo page. If you have photos of something you did that is similar and feel like posting I would appreciate it. Thanks. -RSL
 
Thanks! That's a good idea and cheaper too. I can also fit more in my car in just one trip, unlike huge straw bales. With the plywood on top that should be quite stable. I think I'll lay them them flat which should raise it about six inches. I'm not sure about on end. I guess I could double stack them.

I don't plan to move the tractor around anyway in the winter and to tell you the truth - with the extremely hot summer here this year I've had it in one place under shade trees almost all summer. In the spring I was moving it each day to fresh grass and it was cooler outside so the sun was not an issue.

So much for movable coops! lol

How many do you think I would need if the space is 10 feet long and 4 feet wide, which is the combined footprint of the coop/run together? For instance - how far apart would you place the blocks if you were doing this?
 
My husband says they are 8 inches so if you wanted to stack them 2 high that would be 16 and should be plenty even with expected nor'easters this winter. As for how many? Each corner and then one I the middle on the longer sides.

Good luck!
 
It was not clear from your text, but sand for the floor of the run is hard to beat. Drains well, dries fast. Lining the run with an impermeable barrier will hold water.

Chris
 
It was not clear from your text, but sand for the floor of the run is hard to beat. Drains well, dries fast. Lining the run with an impermeable barrier will hold water.

Chris


Chris - thank you for that comment....have been wanting to use sand for part of my floor....how deep should it be?
 
I found 6 nice pallets and I'm going to connect them and then cover with 1/2" hardware cloth. On top of that three 4 x 8 foot plywood. I also made sides for the coop part that I plan to attach with 3 hinges on each side so I can raise them up in summer for shade and air, but close for winter and rain. The run sides I bought some 1 x2 boards and will attach heavy duty plastic so I can roll in up or down as needed. I am actually glad to get the coop/run tractor off the ground for the winter.

I'm thinking I should put the pallets on top of pea gravel maybe for extra drainage. I am not painting the pallets but I sealed/stained all the other wood I bought. I plan to have these inter-locking, waterproof pads and cover that with rubber, so I can pile up the litter. With this liner I can pull it out, dump the litter, put the liner back and top with fresh litter.

I was wondering - has anybody bought those heated hoses before and how realiable are they? I really use my garden hose every day and in winter that is going to be a problem. I guess I could get one of those coil type hoses and just take it in and out when I need to. I did get a heater for my waterer.
 

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