genxjanette
Songster
One more question. For the 8x12 coop, how tall should it be? I'm limited to 7ft in my city.
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I have been reading a lot of your comments, and I went to look at your coop. I noticed that you had a run attached to the side of your coop, and I want to add a run to my coop, so my girls can go out during the day. The best way a run works for me is to put it on the front of the coop. Do you think that a covered run in the front of the coop will cause any issues with drafts in a Minnesota winter? My coop will face South.I recommend you use the height measurements contained in the Woods book in the chapter on the 10' by 16' KD coop.
Both the front and the back are 4' high, the highest point is close to 10' but that height diminishes very quickly. If you deviate from this both your head and back will suffer. As is evident in any picture the back roof slopes very quickly which means that the back section (location of the roosts) starts at 4' and increases quickly as well. Even so I spent better part of a year learning to avoid banging my head as I clean the drop boards.
Is it possible to request a variance to the 7' limit given how little of the building exceeds that? If not possible I would re-engineer the back roof to flatten at the 7' level to the top of the monitor. This approach will reduce the size of the monitor window to conform to the height limit but I do not think it will impact the "air cushion" that the design depends on to function in the winter.
Not sure what other alternatives might exist, I do know that the conventional slope starting at a 7' level will make the back section awkward to navigate.
Good luck.
The sides of the coop...or the run?That is an option. I had seen another Woods coop where it looked like the sides were enclosed. So, my preference would be to enclose the sides only and leave the south facing front open.
Would take full year of astute observation.If one could borrow one of those portable garages one could simulate before building run...