Woods coop for cold weather/no sun?

RJ chickens

Chirping
7 Years
Dec 13, 2017
8
39
84
Anchorage, AK
Hello,

My wife and I are planning on getting about a dozen chicks this coming spring in Anchorage, AK. I had read about the Woods coop and was excited about building one in the spring until I realized that our backyard doesn't get any direct sunlight during the winter. I was hoping we'd get some sunlight since we have a relatively big backyard, but the backyard is on the north side of the house and the sun doesn't clear the roof... (Just got the house so this is our first winter) On top of that, we don't get that much sunlight to begin with in Anchorage, so this kind of seems like a show stopper for the Woods coop.

Any thoughts? Other coop designs that folks would recommend for cold(ish) weather? Thanks!
 
I think the best coops are homemade ones! They are tailored to what you need and how you need it! I'm pretty sure someone on here will show up ans give a little more info on commercial though...
:welcome
 
Oh yeah, it'll definitely be homemade. Just a question of determining which type of coop is better for cold weather. I do have an old shed in my backyard, but I kind of need it as a storage shed and I'm not sure it would even stand up to any modifications if I did want to use it as a coop.
 
Well since you up in Alaska, my first concern would be to make it as warm as possible for the winters, and to be large enough. Then working on the smaller things. I can do some research for you and come back when I find something.
 
I will give you a suggestion based on my experience. I have kept poultry in the Rocky Mountains of Alberta for 5 years now (-50 F average cold temps) All kinds- ducks, chickens, quail, guinea fowl. All kinds of coops- 3 sided ones, tractors, sheds.
You'll want to start of by picking a cold-hardy breed. Ducks and quail are cold hardy. Wyandottes, Chanteclers, are both hardy- any small-combed breed is cold hardy. Brahmas are hardy, but their feathered feet cause snow and ice (moisture) to accumulate on the feet (one word FROSTBITE).

Next you'll want to consider an alternate location for a coop. The no-sun is a big issue. If you don't have an alternate location, I would look into a different style of coop. Make it walk in, and suitable for deep litter method (a great way to conserve heat).
Make your roosts 2x4s, 4" side flat, so the birds can protect their feet in the cold.
You'll want the coop to have 4 square feet of space per bird, especially if they will be locked up in winter. I wouldn't do 6 or 8- in cold weather like ours, you need to sort of squish it a bit. It's still humane and my birds do fine.
Build it with double-wall insulation using fiberglass insulation on the walls, floor, and roof, as well as a vapour barrier. That will be the best heat conserver.
Wire it, or have plans for an extension cord. During those cold winter months, your adults may not need any heat (mine don't), but you will want a heated waterer or heat pads to prevent freezing eggs. If you want your birds to lay throughout winter, you'll also need supplemental lighting.
Make sure all your ventilation is closable. Trust me. Most folks on here who suggest ventilation have never been in temps like ours. I learned this the hard way. Yes, follow the one square foot of ventilation per ten square feet of coop space rule, but make your ventilation closable and openable. In cold winter days, you may have to close up the coop completely to conserve body heat- and if you do decide to heat, for whatever reason (I am right now, because I have 10 week old chicks), you'll want that closing option. Another great way in cold temps to conserve heat but provide breathable insulation is stuff hay into your vents during winter.
Don't make the vents high up. This will cause all the heat to escape. Fatal in cold temps. Make them close to the floor, away from the Northern side. Drafts don't equal ventilation. One foot above or below your roosts.
Look into space effiency because your birds will be so cooped up during winter. Nest boxes under roosts. Movable roosts. Great ways of keeping the floor space large.
Frostbite will happen for a variety of reasons. I have had frostbite happen in open-air coops so I say, shut up the coop if you need to. Try to avoid food and water inside the coop. Choose small combed breeds.
I don't use heated waterers. I prefer providing free-choice snow, and then making 1 or 2 trips per day out to the coop with warm (not hot or steaming) water in a rubber livestock pan.
 
I've read where they used Wood's coops, up into Canada, with -40 temps. But haven't seen anything about their use in Alaska. If it was me, I'd build a Woods. It's still the best coop you can have. If needed, you could always enclose the open front a little. But you probably would not even have to, it would work as it is.
 
I will give you a suggestion based on my experience. I have kept poultry in the Rocky Mountains of Alberta for 5 years now (-50 F average cold temps) All kinds- ducks, chickens, quail, guinea fowl. All kinds of coops- 3 sided ones, tractors, sheds....

Thanks for the detailed answer! Definitely some good advice there. Thankfully Anchorage is pretty mild compared to the temps you're talking about. If I was up in Fairbanks I would be in an environment closer to yours... Regardless, I appreciate your insight, and some of it is applicable - thank you!
 
Thanks for the detailed answer! Definitely some good advice there. Thankfully Anchorage is pretty mild compared to the temps you're talking about. If I was up in Fairbanks I would be in an environment closer to yours... Regardless, I appreciate your insight, and some of it is applicable - thank you!
You're welcome! Glad I could help.
 
I've read where they used Wood's coops, up into Canada, with -40 temps. But haven't seen anything about their use in Alaska. If it was me, I'd build a Woods. It's still the best coop you can have. If needed, you could always enclose the open front a little. But you probably would not even have to, it would work as it is.

I have read a lot of your posts and was hoping you'd reply - thank you! If I had a southern exposure in my backyard I would go for it, but with zero direct sunlight... It just seems like I'd be rolling the dice. I read the Woods book a while ago when I was doing my initial research and the fact that he stressed the specific orientation of coop to maximize sunlight (along with other light-maximizing factors) leads me to believe that's a necessity.
 

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