Woods Coop for Cold Weather

[MiaS]

Hi all!
Been doing a bunch of research on coop design and now have come across the Woods style which I'm liking more and more. I've bought the book but so far have only skimmed it. I have a few questions, particularly for those who are fans of these coops and/or for those who have one in a cold weather area ( @JackE @Howard E )
1. Though I see that these coops have been designed for and used in Northern US areas I do live in Alberta, Canada so our temps can get very, very cold (though in Calgary not usually for long periods at a time - we get chinooks like Denver does). Should I be considering insulating a Woods, or will that in some way negate the ventilation? I don't think it should but...?
2. Is there a reason that many seem to elevate these coops or can I use a dirt floor. Pro's vs Cons?
3. I'm assuming that the sq footage per bird accounts for the entire coop size since the birds have the entire floor to roam about on, is this correct? So for a 6 x 10' coop you could house 6 birds and an 8 x 12' houses roughly 9?
4. Are your birds mostly happy indoors? I like the idea of a screened run, partly so I can enjoy the birds - but I can also see that keeping them mostly in the coop would be safer. I live in a country residential area with coyotes, some fox, skunks and raptors but honestly it is neighbourhood dogs that seem most worrisome since no yards are fenced and we often have wanderers. My next door neighbour has two bird dogs on shock collars but those are not fail proof by any means. I would let them range when I was in the garden but let's face it that is only for less maybe half of the year. I also wonder if I would miss being able to see them in a screened in run...

 

[Ted Brown]

I live near Ottawa on the Quebec side; very cold with lots of snow. I am in process of building the Woods KD 10' by 16'. I too think it is a great design.

Insulation

A waste of time and money, just make certain the coop is tight so that air does not flow through cracks in the walls. thus is very important to ensure that the "air cushion" is maintained and no drafts affect your birds. Also insulation means inner walls; mice and rats love such spaces and you do not know they are there until problems arise.

Elevated?

• Either Jack or Howard have their coop directly on the ground. While he loves the design he had noted that the ongoing cleans out have caused a depression and now has water running into the coop. I believe he plans to re-locate to address this.
• If you plan to try deep litter method inside the coop it works better directly on the ground.
• Less material = less expense.
• You need to deal with predator digging; most recommend an apron of hardware cloth on the ground all round.
• Wood on ground rots sooner.

Mine will have a floor, will be elevated at least 24" off the ground, will incorporate the area underneath as part of the run space. I do not plan to free range so more run area is good,

Sq. Ft.

MINIMUM is 4 sq feet per bird in the coop PLUS 10 sq ft per bird for the run. If your birds will not have access to the run in the winter (ie a covered run) you will need significantly more sq footage in the coop.

Indoors:

Others will chime in but happy equals enough space or behavioral problems will result.

I am doing the 10' by 16' coop and a covered (tin roof) 12' by 12' run with access to the area under the coop so another 10' by 16' area. I plan for 8-12 birds.

I will do DLM in the run proper NOT under the coop. I will use poop boards under the roosts and deep bedding in the coop changed only when necessary.

 

[MiaS]

So will you be running your covered run off of the door side or the front side? I did look at this option as well but to my mind it only works well if it goes off of the door side, or if the coop is raised so the front run can be tall enough to get under.

I guess another option could be to build the actual coop within the run.

What are your plans for under the coop if not DLM?

 

[Ted Brown]

Current thinking is the run will be off the side opposite the door as I want to be able to access the coop without going through the run. The run will have a separate access door but will get used infrequently; it will be under a roof (I am building an open pole shed that is 12' by 36' with 1/3 of it used for the run). The coop will be immediately adjacent to the pole shed, it and therefore the door will be exposed to the elements.

I will use hardware cloth on frames to enclose the under space; open on the side adjacent to the run. I want to be able to remove the one on the door side for clean out or general access as needed. If I DLM underneath I will not be able to access it nor will it be tall enough for the birds. It is mainly to provide additional run space.

 

[MiaS]

Current thinking is the run will be off the side opposite the door as I want to be able to access the coop without going through the run. The run will have a separate access door but will get used infrequently; it will be under a roof (I am building an open pole shed that is 12' by 36' with 1/3 of it used for the run). The coop will be immediately adjacent to the pole shed, it and therefore the door will be exposed to the elements.

I will use hardware cloth on frames to enclose the under space; open on the side adjacent to the run. I want to be able to remove the one on the door side for clean out or general access as needed. If I DLM underneath I will not be able to access it nor will it be tall enough for the birds. It is mainly to provide additional run space.

I think I've figured out a way to lay this out so as to do the same, run the run off of the non-door side.

 

[Ted Brown]

Sounds like the juices are flowing, best of luck!

 

[Ted Brown]

By the way. I am building the KD (knock down) coop EXACTLY as shown in Pierce Woods' book - not using conventional 16" stud walls: will save some money. Only modification will be to beef up the supports for the monitor (upper) windows.

I am also building it as a kit; walls will be held together using screw in eyes (circles) top and bottom with rebar dropped in to hold things together; floors will be done in 4 sections and will be put in place after the walls are up. The whole structure will sit on six (maybe 8) tree trunk uprights with split tree trunk spans sitting on the uprights (I have access to used hydro poles for free).

I am doing this for two reasons: I may want to move it and I can avoid a building permit if it is a kit.

 

[Ted Brown]

 

[Ted Brown]

 

[Ted Brown]