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wormer

I suggest you do it in Dec so you don't lose any eggs.And then again in August when they are done laying.Remember it's a 2 step process,you need to worm them again 30 days after the first time to kill the cycle.
In N.H.,Tony.
 
I'll jump in here with my 2 cents...

I've used Safe-guard (fenbenzole) 10% suspension goat wormer. I mix it in the drinking water at a rate of 3 cc per gallon of water for 2 or 3 days. I like this wormer because it is gentle and very hard to over dose the birds on it. Of course, it will separate from the water, so you need to shake the waterer around when ever you go out to check on the birds, so that it gets mixed up again. PLUS, you need to make a new batch each day.

Remember when worming your birds is that they must be re-treated in 7 - 10 days to make the worming effective. The second worming is to kill any larve that hatched after the first treatment.

I use an egg withdrawal period is 14 days after the last dosing of wormer...

FENBENZOLE can effect feather growth if administered during molting. So, try not to use this wormer if your birds are molting.
 
Just curious, when one of you says "unless your bird looks really wormy", I was wondering how you can tell if your bird has worms. I still am planning to deworm them anyways, but didnt know the symptoms or how you tell. As far as I know, I haven't had any issues with it, but this is my first year raising birds on the ground too.
 
Just curious, when one of you says "unless your bird looks really wormy", I was wondering how you can tell if your bird has worms. I still am planning to deworm them anyways, but didnt know the symptoms or how you tell. As far as I know, I haven't had any issues with it, but this is my first year raising birds on the ground too. 
I would love to know this answer also. I have never wormed my girls, I live in a 2 season climate ( winter and summer) and never have seen a worm in there poop. I would love to know when to worm and if I have to when no worms are present. Thanks


Forgot to say some are 17 months old, some are 8 months old
 
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If you are SEEING worms, then there is an infestation of them.... They can have worms without you seeing them in the poop.
If you ABSOLUTELY want to know if they are clear of worms, take specimens to the vet just like you would with a dog or cat. Keep in mind that it is possible AND likely that one bird would have worms and another in the cage would not. So, I you need to take in specimens from various birds.


NEXT, what are the signs...
Let me see if I can find some links because there are a lot of Possible indicators...
 
Here is an article put out by the University of Mississippi. It covers Worms and Parasites... Notice that they recommend fenbendazole several times... That is safegaurd.

http://msucares.com/poultry/diseases/disparas.htm#asc

OBTW, it does confirm that chickens seem to have a resistenance to worms until the age of 3 or 4 months.

Roundworms .... "Heavily infected birds may show droopiness, emaciation and diarrhea. The primary damage is reduced efficiency of feed utilization, but death has been observed in severe infections."


From the University of Florida, I found the following...

"However, large numbers can have a devastating effect on growth, egg production, and over-all health. The concentration of parasite eggs in the chickens environment is one factor which plays a major role in determining the severity of the infection. The chickens pick up the parasite eggs directly by ingesting contaminated feed, water, or litter or by eating snails, earthworms, or other insects (intermediate hosts) which can carry the eggs."


The link to that quote is...

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vm015


I hope this has been helpful to you.
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I'll jump in here with my 2 cents...

I've used Safe-guard (fenbenzole) 10% suspension goat wormer. I mix it in the drinking water at a rate of 3 cc per gallon of water for 2 or 3 days. I like this wormer because it is gentle and very hard to over dose the birds on it. Of course, it will separate from the water, so you need to shake the waterer around when ever you go out to check on the birds, so that it gets mixed up again. PLUS, you need to make a new batch each day.

Remember when worming your birds is that they must be re-treated in 7 - 10 days to make the worming effective. The second worming is to kill any larve that hatched after the first treatment.

I use an egg withdrawal period is 14 days after the last dosing of wormer...

FENBENZOLE can effect feather growth if administered during molting. So, try not to use this wormer if your birds are molting.
does this kill tape worms ? I just spent fiftenn minutes with the store manager at murdocks who claims this is no good for anything but stomach worms. I said I was told it was good for all worms, he disagreed. I can get this, at 20.00 a bottle, but will it kill everything ? so you worm for 3 days ( 3 days of it in water ) then wait ten days an d do another 3 days?
 
does this kill tape worms ? I just spent fiftenn minutes with the store manager at murdocks who claims this is no good for anything but stomach worms. I said I was told it was good for all worms, he disagreed. I can get this, at 20.00 a bottle, but will it kill everything ? so you worm for 3 days ( 3 days of it in water ) then wait ten days an d do another 3 days?
According to the mississippi web site ....

"Tapeworm infections can be controlled by regular treatment of the bird with fenbendazole or leviamisole."

HOWEVER, I have been told by some other knowledgable folks that it does not do Tapeworms. In fact, the Mississippi web site states a couple sentences before the ABOVE quote...

"Although several drugs are used to remove tapeworms from poultry, most are of doubtful efficacy"

So, personally, this makes me wonder how, just how effective the Fenbendazole is on tape worms. I THINK I remember reading on the label that the dosing strength had to be increased to kill tapeworms. So... what's a girl to do when their chickens have tapeworms. The answer is very simple... USE Valbazen (albendazole). This is what I used and there KNOW that it works on tapeworms. The dosage is 1/2 cc per large hen (4 to 6 lbs) and 3/4 cc per large rooster ( 7 to 9 lbs). This wormer is not usually found at the feedstore. You can order a LARGE 16.9 oz bottle from Jeffers livestock supply OR a smaller bottle from First State vet. This wormer is administer directly down the throat. I alternate between the two wormers...

If this is your first time worming and you haven't seen any tiny rice like moving worms in the chickens FRESH poop, then I would use safegaurd. It is good for most worms.
It is available locally. It is cheap, realatively. It is easy to administer. It is purchased in a small bottle that you will be able to use a lot of before it expires LOL....


YES... I worm for 3 consecutive days. Take the water up the night before you start. That way when the birds wake up, they are THIRSTY and when you place the medicated water down in front of them, they are all gauranteed to get their butts over to the fountain and get a drink. I wait only 7 days from the 3rd day of worming and then start the re-worming. I put the wormer out for 3 more days and am done! From beginning to end 13 days. IF you are thinking this is PITA, then you should try catching the birds ONE at a time, loading the syringe with the right amount of wormer, convincing the bird to open its mouth, AND then keeping it separate from the ones that still need to be wormed. That is a PITA... There is a greater chance that some drama hen is going to poop on you too OR spit the wormer out on you! If you don't see the rice pieces indicating tapeworms, I would ABSOLUTELY go the safegaurd way!
 
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