Worming question

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Go to the feed store and buy Safeguard paste, it's an equine wormer that comes in a green/yellow toothpaste looking box and doesnt cost much. Dosage is a "pea" size amount for each chicken. Put a pea size amount on a small piece of bread and give a piece of bread to each chicken. Discard eggs for 2 weeks. It's up to you how often you want to worm your chickens. Alot depends where you live and the type of weather you have. If your soil is warm and moist, rains often...you might consider a semi annual worming program and adjust as necessary or not at all. If you live in a dry or cold environment, annual worming might be good enough. Check your chickens poop for signs of worms...acting lethargic, slacked off eating, drinking and laying and so on. Hope this helps.
 
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YES you can do this!

RE-TREAT is to break the cycle of hatching eggs. The wormers kill live grown worms - - not eggs. HATCHING eggs are killed during a re-treat.

There are MANY answers to "HOW will I know when to treat again . . . "

1.) The most accurate answer is to treat when they have worms - - FOR SURE. This means take a few stool samples and have them examined by a vet. This is extra work and expense that many people just do not do. My vet has me treat my pot belly pigs 2 times a year for worms, so I treat my chickens twice a year for worms. They are in adjacent pens .

2.) Treat when you see worms. This means you ALREADY have an infestation. This means you are behind the eight ball already and have to work hardier to get the worms taken care of.

3.) JUST treat on a regular basis - - - not too frequently ( monthly is too frequently) and not too infrequently (once a year is probably not enough). Two - Four times a year is appropriate. It depends on all the previous things I mentioned - - weather, living conditions etc. I would start with twice a year. If you discover worms in between that period, than you need to worm more frequently !
 
I use roasted garlic and brown rice , for 3 days to worm and never have to toss eggs. Some say DE is good some say it isnt a wormer.
I dont know either way. All I know is that I go natural with my flock and dont have problems. My flock loves the garlic mix and I use it once a month. . Drawback...is garlic breath from my flock.
 
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Thank you all so very much! I'm blonde so please bear with me....I'm still a little fuzzy on the question as to whether the horse wormer is a one time, one shot deal. I understand it only kills worms not eggs but since I already wormed them with the other stuff, am I to wait another period of time and break the cycle of this other type of worm? It didn't sound like it but sort of did... I'm so sorry for all of these questions I just want to get it right and since they are not laying eggs right now I have don't have that as a worry. Also, I did not worm them because I saw any worms or that they had any symptoms, I just thought I was supposed to since they hadn't been wormed ever? I simply want to do right by my girls!
 
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NO PROBLEM - - - I worm without seeing anything too. By the time you see the worms, the problem is LARGE!

Wazine only kills 1 type of worm. The horse wormers kill many, many, many types of worms.
I only used Wazine for the FIRST EVER worming because it is GENTLER than the ones that kill everything under the sun. AFTER the one and only time with WAZINE, I put my birds on a twice a year worming schedule with the stronger wormers . . ..

THIS is what I did and what many others do - - -

1st time ever wormed OR NEW BIRDS (not chicks) purchased from someone else
I normally treat my birds for the first time around 4 - 5 months of age. Shortly before they are due to start laying.
That way I don't have to toss any eggs.

Wazine wait 7 - 10 days.
Do re-treat with horse wormer. . .

6 months later - - -
Treat with horse wormer. . . wait 7 - 10 days
Re-treat with horse wormer


6 months later - - -
Treat with horse wormer . . . wait 7 - 10 days
Re-treat with horse wormer

THERE is a new product out there that worms and you don't have to toss eggs. Most of the time, you will have to order it.
I will be trying it next time. I have been using SAFEGUARD liquid wormer for goats because I didn't think my birds would eat the paste since my pigs hated it so much
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. Oh, if only I had known.

I am sure Dawg53 is out there somewhere. He knows the name of the wormer that does not have an egg withdrawal period.
 
PERFECT!!!!! Thank you SO MUCH! YOU ROCK!!!
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I will print these instructions out and save them. I'm glad I used the wazine, that goes right in line with what you said. So at least I know I am on the right track.
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Now I know exacty what to do. I'm a little, um, how shall I say it....._____ retentive? I like to do things exactly right, by the book, no diversions, stay within the lines....blah blah blah. These instructions make me soooo happy
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Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!!
 
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ok Worming question here,

How do you tell if your hens do have worms? Never ventured in this aspect of chicken care before. Is there any such thing as a natural wormer? How do you keep your chickens organic if you use chemical wormers? What kind of worms are chickens pron too? Hmmm thanks for the info in advance.

Christal
 
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You can take a stool sample to the vet and have it tested .. . . That is how you wil KNOW if the birds have worms.

NATURAL WORMERS- - - i.e De, and previously discussed items are PREVENATIVE. . They do not cure an infestation.
There are many who have used and sworn by DE as a wormer only to find out later - - -
that their birds got worms anyways. DE is one of those products that starts HUGE arguments at the mere
mention that it does or does not work as a wormer
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I do not keep my chickens "ORGANIC". I do not have to worry about the "organic" label. So, I can not help you on this. I am happy that my chickens are not caged and fed steriods. Other than that, I do what I need to do to keep them healthy. You will most likely need to start a whole new threa to draw the attentions of the "organic" chicken experts . . ..

Chickens are prone to many many types of worms - - roundworms, tapeworms, cecal worms, gapeworms, etc. The missippi state university does a nice poulty disease and insect section on their web site. Try this link out:

http://www.poultry.msstate.edu/extension/pdf/diseases_poultry_common.pdf
 

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