Would you assist hatch and how soon?

[C Siena]

Thanks for the advice. I did read prior to our first hatch to wait. I read the article on assisting, which I've read before, but now I may need it, so I needed a refresher. This morning (7am) there was another pip next to the first And another egg pipped! I told our neighbor (5 miles away but in the country, that's neighbor) that when candling, I saw 1 for sure, 1 fairly sure and 1 more possible.

I'll wait and await their attempts to hatch. Keeping a close eye on the humidity.

 

[C Siena]

Update, hatching, zipping

 

[BoundlessLove]

That’s great news!
Please keep us posted.

 

[C Siena]

That’s great news!
Please keep us posted.

She's Alive, just hatched!

 

[Poultrybonkers]

If it cant hatch theres a reason I wouldnt help it at all just will be either a deformed bird or a weak one

 

[C Siena]

If it cant hatch theres a reason I wouldnt help it at all just will be either a deformed bird or a weak one

I am very far from the knowledge I need/want in raising keets/chicks but I disagree. I agree with the article on the guide to assisted hatching. First Wait. In malposition, pipping away from the air sac etc. a possible assist. When I read about the feet being over the head, I thought of a breech birth. I digress.
If they are malformed, too weak (could be from trying to hatch), I think that will show soon enough after hatch. I think it's worth a try, as I haven't lost anything in trying. My time yes, but I have extra time and don't mind spending it on an assist. I understand you don't and that is fine for you as we all make our own choices, but I was ready to try to assist late this afternoon. Now, it's not needed! PTL!

 

[Project Blue]

This is a personal choice, but I'd assist, but I'm also good at helping a weak chick survive. I'd also guess your chick has already suffocated in the egg, especially if you're not seeing movement at the pip site. A big chick with no air sac will need more oxygen at the point of hatching than before. In the picture it doesn't look like the bill cleared through the membranes. If you open a small hole you can see if it's still absorbing membranes or not as they will be pink and pulsing. If it has not progressed normally and there is a pink membrane put tape of the hole you made, but make sure its getting air from the pip hole. Opening and closing the incubator seems to stop/slow development, so next time don't worry about an unhappy chick too soon. If you do wind up with a weak chick, work hard for the first few days keeping it going. I hatch eggs all the time and every now and then, especially with shipped eggs there will be slow weak chick, but with TLC for a few days to a week that chick will be a normal adult. I just had a saxony duckling that was an assisted late hatcher, that was so weak he couldn't stand and barely alive. Now he is indistinguishable from the rest of the flock. With most slow hatchers it's not a congenital defect but incubation difficulties, so the chick will be normal with extra care. Anyway, it's a guessing game. Usually the best strategy is not to open the incubator during the hatching period which is 24 hours. When the first chick hatches wait until the next day same time, then check slow pips and move chicks out. If there is a really late hatcher, I think to up survival chances it's best to do a really quick incubator clean up, leaving the egg somewhere warm. All the mess from the other chicks creates bacteria soup with all the heat and humidity.

 

[BoundlessLove]

This is a personal choice, but I'd assist, but I'm also good at helping a weak chick survive. I'd also guess your chick has already suffocated in the egg, especially if you're not seeing movement at the pip site. A big chick with no air sac will need more oxygen at the point of hatching than before. In the picture it doesn't look like the bill cleared through the membranes. If you open a small hole you can see if it's still absorbing membranes or not as they will be pink and pulsing. If it has not progressed normally and there is a pink membrane put tape of the hole you made, but make sure its getting air from the pip hole. Opening and closing the incubator seems to stop/slow development, so next time don't worry about an unhappy chick too soon. If you do wind up with a weak chick, work hard for the first few days keeping it going. I hatch eggs all the time and every now and then, especially with shipped eggs there will be slow weak chick, but with TLC for a few days to a week that chick will be a normal adult. I just had a saxony duckling that was an assisted late hatcher, that was so weak he couldn't stand and barely alive. Now he is indistinguishable from the rest of the flock. With most slow hatchers it's not a congenital defect but incubation difficulties, so the chick will be normal with extra care. Anyway, it's a guessing game. Usually the best strategy is not to open the incubator during the hatching period which is 24 hours. When the first chick hatches wait until the next day same time, then check slow pips and move chicks out. If there is a really late hatcher, I think to up survival chances it's best to do a really quick incubator clean up, leaving the egg somewhere warm. All the mess from the other chicks creates bacteria soup with all the heat and humidity.

Chick hatched with no assistance needed.

 

[BoundlessLove]

@C Siena
You made a good choice to wait.

Yes, it is a personal choice to assist. I assist because sometimes there is a chance the chick will need no extra care and thrive and live to be a healthy chicken.
If it does not, at least you tried.

 

[C Siena]

This is a personal choice, but I'd assist, but I'm also good at helping a weak chick survive. I'd also guess your chick has already suffocated in the egg, especially if you're not seeing movement at the pip site. A big chick with no air sac will need more oxygen at the point of hatching than before. In the picture it doesn't look like the bill cleared through the membranes. If you open a small hole you can see if it's still absorbing membranes or not as they will be pink and pulsing. If it has not progressed normally and there is a pink membrane put tape of the hole you made, but make sure its getting air from the pip hole. Opening and closing the incubator seems to stop/slow development, so next time don't worry about an unhappy chick too soon. If you do wind up with a weak chick, work hard for the first few days keeping it going. I hatch eggs all the time and every now and then, especially with shipped eggs there will be slow weak chick, but with TLC for a few days to a week that chick will be a normal adult. I just had a saxony duckling that was an assisted late hatcher, that was so weak he couldn't stand and barely alive. Now he is indistinguishable from the rest of the flock. With most slow hatchers it's not a congenital defect but incubation difficulties, so the chick will be normal with extra care. Anyway, it's a guessing game. Usually the best strategy is not to open the incubator during the hatching period which is 24 hours. When the first chick hatches wait until the next day same time, then check slow pips and move chicks out. If there is a really late hatcher, I think to up survival chances it's best to do a really quick incubator clean up, leaving the egg somewhere warm. All the mess from the other chicks creates bacteria soup with all the heat and humidity.

I'm not sure if this was in response to me. The bantam chick hatched an hour ago about 20ish hours after pip. There is a pic of another bantam egg that pipped early this morning.

I would not open the incubator to get the hatched chick out as she will be fine until tomorrow and do not want to lower the RH due to the pipped one. I do not expect any more to pip as the others were not viable, I think...but I left them in case I was in error.