DIY CABINET COOLER INCUBATOR How we did it and TEST RUN Ready Set GO!

[Sally Sunshine]

Lockdown in two coolers! serama are separate

one+ tray is empty in the cabinet cooler, ready for the next set of eggs!


Air cells finally look good on day 18! pray for these babies and the other cooler!

 

[ii4him]

Well done, thanks for posting.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Well done, thanks for posting.

Thank you and welcome to BYC!

 

[DJC62]

I have built and hatch tons of chicks from my incubator. Used a 3 door drink cooler like you'd find at a convenience store. All digitally controlled, automatic turning with PID timer, countdown timer and more. Will hold 1728 chicken eggs with my current trays, probably 6-10 thousand double stacked quail eggs. I used 2 of the ceramic cone coils as was posted a few back. I think mine are 550 watts BUT they only get hot enough to glow when I initially turn the unit on. Once it's up to temp it's feathered by the electronic controller. I have 3 fans, 2 up top moving 200 cfm, 28 watts each, one squirrel cage type down at the bottom, 40 watts. I recently put the bottom one in, didn't need it as it was doing well so I might take it out. Running this, after it gets up to temp, about 15 minutes, it's basically like running an ordinary light bulb. Haven't noticed any difference on my electric bill either. Cabinet has door lights, fluorescent tubes. Considering this is an insulated cabinet, hold the temp pretty well. I also have a lab probe inside connected to one of my laptops, super sensitive, allows me to chart the temp the entire incubation time. Temp stays within 1/10th over or under 99.5. For the turner motor, I used a 1.8 rpm stove auger motor, about 20-25 bucks. Built my racks out of 1 1/4" aluminum angle. Everything is standard 115v except the countdown timer. It is 12 volt DC so I had to use an adapter. I'll post some photos if anyone is interested. But my main point in this post is the ceramic wire coil elements work quite well. They might cause you problems though depending on how you are setup as the ceramic hold/radiates heat so on a manual wafer thermostat it would probably blow right past your tem setting until the element cooled. That was my reason for going digital. The programmable (PID) temp controller is a smart controller. It cuts in and out as the temp starts rising so it comes up in a controlled manner and once it gets close to my set value, 99.5, it basically cuts off and lets the temp keep rising as it knows where the temp will end up based on it's having learned the performance of the element and if it stops or goes down it kicks in a little to get it up to temp. This process keeps your element, if it still has heat radiation after the power to it is off, from continuing to increase the temp beyond your desired temp. Hope that made sense.
You can use the ceramic cones but if you are using a wafer thermostat I would probably use something different. Back in the 90's I did make an incubator, out of a fridge, using a wafer thermostat and the ceramic cone. At that time I wasn't using the temp probe connected to a computer to tell me exactly what was going on inside. I hatched tons of chicks, I'm talking thousands. So it will work but your results may vary and if you're setup to accurately monitor your temps you'll probably find it overheats a fair bit and your temp swings are probably going to be fairly large. Going digital you can keep it within .1 above or below your desired temp, if your cabinet is insulated in some manner. The more insulation, the tighter the control will be.

Didn't mean to hijack, just passing along some of my 'learned the hard way' and over long periods of time knowledge.

Dave

 

[ozexpat]

I have built and hatch tons of chicks from my incubator. Used a 3 door drink cooler like you'd find at a convenience store. All digitally controlled, automatic turning with PID timer, countdown timer and more. Will hold 1728 chicken eggs with my current trays, probably 6-10 thousand double stacked quail eggs. I used 2 of the ceramic cone coils as was posted a few back. I think mine are 550 watts BUT they only get hot enough to glow when I initially turn the unit on. Once it's up to temp it's feathered by the electronic controller. I have 3 fans, 2 up top moving 200 cfm, 28 watts each, one squirrel cage type down at the bottom, 40 watts. I recently put the bottom one in, didn't need it as it was doing well so I might take it out. Running this, after it gets up to temp, about 15 minutes, it's basically like running an ordinary light bulb. Haven't noticed any difference on my electric bill either. Cabinet has door lights, fluorescent tubes. Considering this is an insulated cabinet, hold the temp pretty well. I also have a lab probe inside connected to one of my laptops, super sensitive, allows me to chart the temp the entire incubation time. Temp stays within 1/10th over or under 99.5. For the turner motor, I used a 1.8 rpm stove auger motor, about 20-25 bucks. Built my racks out of 1 1/4" aluminum angle. Everything is standard 115v except the countdown timer. It is 12 volt DC so I had to use an adapter. I'll post some photos if anyone is interested. But my main point in this post is the ceramic wire coil elements work quite well. They might cause you problems though depending on how you are setup as the ceramic hold/radiates heat so on a manual wafer thermostat it would probably blow right past your tem setting until the element cooled. That was my reason for going digital. The programmable (PID) temp controller is a smart controller. It cuts in and out as the temp starts rising so it comes up in a controlled manner and once it gets close to my set value, 99.5, it basically cuts off and lets the temp keep rising as it knows where the temp will end up based on it's having learned the performance of the element and if it stops or goes down it kicks in a little to get it up to temp. This process keeps your element, if it still has heat radiation after the power to it is off, from continuing to increase the temp beyond your desired temp. Hope that made sense.
You can use the ceramic cones but if you are using a wafer thermostat I would probably use something different. Back in the 90's I did make an incubator, out of a fridge, using a wafer thermostat and the ceramic cone. At that time I wasn't using the temp probe connected to a computer to tell me exactly what was going on inside. I hatched tons of chicks, I'm talking thousands. So it will work but your results may vary and if you're setup to accurately monitor your temps you'll probably find it overheats a fair bit and your temp swings are probably going to be fairly large. Going digital you can keep it within .1 above or below your desired temp, if your cabinet is insulated in some manner. The more insulation, the tighter the control will be.

Didn't mean to hijack, just passing along some of my 'learned the hard way' and over long periods of time knowledge.

Dave

do you have a link to your PID controller?

 

[Sally Sunshine]

I have built and hatch tons of chicks from my incubator. Used a 3 door drink cooler like you'd find at a convenience store. All digitally controlled, automatic turning with PID timer, countdown timer and more. Will hold 1728 chicken eggs with my current trays, probably 6-10 thousand double stacked quail eggs. I used 2 of the ceramic cone coils as was posted a few back. I think mine are 550 watts BUT they only get hot enough to glow when I initially turn the unit on. Once it's up to temp it's feathered by the electronic controller. I have 3 fans, 2 up top moving 200 cfm, 28 watts each, one squirrel cage type down at the bottom, 40 watts. I recently put the bottom one in, didn't need it as it was doing well so I might take it out. Running this, after it gets up to temp, about 15 minutes, it's basically like running an ordinary light bulb. Haven't noticed any difference on my electric bill either. Cabinet has door lights, fluorescent tubes. Considering this is an insulated cabinet, hold the temp pretty well. I also have a lab probe inside connected to one of my laptops, super sensitive, allows me to chart the temp the entire incubation time. Temp stays within 1/10th over or under 99.5. For the turner motor, I used a 1.8 rpm stove auger motor, about 20-25 bucks. Built my racks out of 1 1/4" aluminum angle. Everything is standard 115v except the countdown timer. It is 12 volt DC so I had to use an adapter. I'll post some photos if anyone is interested. But my main point in this post is the ceramic wire coil elements work quite well. They might cause you problems though depending on how you are setup as the ceramic hold/radiates heat so on a manual wafer thermostat it would probably blow right past your tem setting until the element cooled. That was my reason for going digital. The programmable (PID) temp controller is a smart controller. It cuts in and out as the temp starts rising so it comes up in a controlled manner and once it gets close to my set value, 99.5, it basically cuts off and lets the temp keep rising as it knows where the temp will end up based on it's having learned the performance of the element and if it stops or goes down it kicks in a little to get it up to temp. This process keeps your element, if it still has heat radiation after the power to it is off, from continuing to increase the temp beyond your desired temp. Hope that made sense.
You can use the ceramic cones but if you are using a wafer thermostat I would probably use something different. Back in the 90's I did make an incubator, out of a fridge, using a wafer thermostat and the ceramic cone. At that time I wasn't using the temp probe connected to a computer to tell me exactly what was going on inside. I hatched tons of chicks, I'm talking thousands. So it will work but your results may vary and if you're setup to accurately monitor your temps you'll probably find it overheats a fair bit and your temp swings are probably going to be fairly large. Going digital you can keep it within .1 above or below your desired temp, if your cabinet is insulated in some manner. The more insulation, the tighter the control will be.

Didn't mean to hijack, just passing along some of my 'learned the hard way' and over long periods of time knowledge.

Dave

Very interesting Dave, and def not hijacking by any means! I love information and anyone on here can vouch for that!

Can I ask you about these old type ceramic cone heaters are close to the way the new ceramics are made?
I am thinking perhaps the same idea but the coils are inside and more safe?
just curious! And I have read that it takes longer for the new ceramic bulbs to heat up and its down temp time is longer?


http://www.processheating.com/index.php?page=Coneheater2 avail 400 - 1200 watt $29.99 lowest

vs

http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiCare-Ceramic-Infrared/dp/B0002AQCPK avail 60-125watt $16.59 lowest


I will probably just keep what I have for now and the 90's are working perfectly, If I have an issue when they take the rest of the bulbs I use off the market I will buy them in the new form they will sell as, Utility or Shop bulbs. but its always great to know and understand the next options available.

Had it not been a cooler I would have done the regular heating elements they typically use and added Temperature Control Switch Thermostat I bought that oz suggested for safety.


Oz has been telling me about the digital thermostats, I chose to stick with what we have in all the other coolers because they work perfectly and I have not had a single issue with them.
I will at some point try out the one he has suggests the Automatic Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat 12V 110V 220V Control Switch

Unless he comes up with something better until I am ready to switch out! He is always sharing info and upgraded stuff with us!

And Dave, WELCOME TO BYC! Glad to have you with us!

I have to admit the hardest part for me was adjusting the return vent area and getting the shelf size in order to keep the temps stable top to bottom. and I was afraid of what would happen when the eggs go in the three racks, but there is plenty of air flow and it runs steady I am impressed, not at myself but at the coolers ability to hold that heat so well even with all the side vents. But we made 100% sure that back air return was sealed up along all edges. I drove my DH insane with that part, "no no no I need more caulk here, and more tape here, and let me double this one"

Thanks to oz I just purchased this spot check to help me along with more accurite temps, I was reading about it and it is supposed to be extremly accurate and the price is good for us.
If I had the extra cash I would buy high tech stuff but we are not there quite yet, hence the cooler incubator, but I am so glad we did it as it may do a better job than a wood cabinet just in the fact that it retains the heat so good with being so insulated! So far so good, I have no water in it so far humidity is %22 last night and still this am. Air cells are doing great too. So I will be keeping a close eye on them and only add the sponges and pan if needed right in front of the fan

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0099Y9SUQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1




Thanks again! I cant wait to hear more of your set up, sounds amazing! And I love that you have it hooked to the computer too!

 

[DJC62]

OZ, I used this one http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=106 but I've seen others on places like EBay and such that look exactly the same. Auberins has their name on it and I don't know if the components inside are any different or not. Could be it's the same product for all I know. But mine works and if it fails one day I'll probably replace it with the same one.

I used Auberins timer, http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=115 to control my turning motor.


Sally, I haven't used the newer ceramic encased elements. Can't speak for them, good or bad but look like they should be fine. Only thing I see is the ceramic would continue to dissipate heat which might affect your temp variations depending on the thermostat type used. I use the old style cone elements but mine are mounted at the top of the cabinet, at the back, where the air is forces out by the fans. This keeps them away from me possibly touching them and air is blown over them on the out side if you will of the fan. That keeps hotter air from being drawn into my fans and causing them to run hotter.

I use this temp probe, http://www.vernier.com/products/sensors/temperature-sensors/tmp-bta/ connected to a laptop to monitor variations inside the incubator. I set it to check the temp every 1 minute and it creates a graph letting you know exactly what your temperature variations are. I inserted the probe through an access hole in the top of my incubator and set the laptop on top. I don't run the probe all the time but was when setting up, fine tuning, etc. Still spot check for a couple days now and then to make sure nothing has changed. Pretty sensitive probe, reacts to changes instantly.

My cabinet (being a commercial 3 glass door drink cooler, has a drain hole in the bottom that I guess would have been to be able to drain spills, broken product and condensation, but I leave it open which allows it to draw a constant small air supply. Hasn't hurt my humidity (south Texas is humid anyway) and my temp stays within a tenth of a degree while providing a fresh air source. Works for me but every cabinet/situation is going to be different. I'm sure if I moved my incubator to another spot I'd have to retune it.

I have a humidor temp/humidity monitor inside and another junk one just for comparison and another source if my primary fails or for some reason I might think it's not operating correctly.
I do not at this time have a redundant temp controller but have been thinking about using a wafer system in case my electronics fail. Maybe I'll add that in this year but so far all has been working well and I get upper 80% to low 90% hatches so I'm inclined not to touch anything until I have to. Don't want to make bad juju by tinkering too much.

That's my .02 for today....

Dave

 

[Sally Sunshine]

awesomeness! Thank you Dave!

 

[ozexpat]

@DJC62 I would love to see pics of your bator and its components

 

[KYBOY]

I have built and hatch tons of chicks from my incubator. Used a 3 door drink cooler like you'd find at a convenience store. All digitally controlled, automatic turning with PID timer, countdown timer and more. Will hold 1728 chicken eggs with my current trays, probably 6-10 thousand double stacked quail eggs. I used 2 of the ceramic cone coils as was posted a few back. I think mine are 550 watts BUT they only get hot enough to glow when I initially turn the unit on. Once it's up to temp it's feathered by the electronic controller. I have 3 fans, 2 up top moving 200 cfm, 28 watts each, one squirrel cage type down at the bottom, 40 watts. I recently put the bottom one in, didn't need it as it was doing well so I might take it out. Running this, after it gets up to temp, about 15 minutes, it's basically like running an ordinary light bulb. Haven't noticed any difference on my electric bill either. Cabinet has door lights, fluorescent tubes. Considering this is an insulated cabinet, hold the temp pretty well. I also have a lab probe inside connected to one of my laptops, super sensitive, allows me to chart the temp the entire incubation time. Temp stays within 1/10th over or under 99.5. For the turner motor, I used a 1.8 rpm stove auger motor, about 20-25 bucks. Built my racks out of 1 1/4" aluminum angle. Everything is standard 115v except the countdown timer. It is 12 volt DC so I had to use an adapter. I'll post some photos if anyone is interested. But my main point in this post is the ceramic wire coil elements work quite well. They might cause you problems though depending on how you are setup as the ceramic hold/radiates heat so on a manual wafer thermostat it would probably blow right past your tem setting until the element cooled. That was my reason for going digital. The programmable (PID) temp controller is a smart controller. It cuts in and out as the temp starts rising so it comes up in a controlled manner and once it gets close to my set value, 99.5, it basically cuts off and lets the temp keep rising as it knows where the temp will end up based on it's having learned the performance of the element and if it stops or goes down it kicks in a little to get it up to temp. This process keeps your element, if it still has heat radiation after the power to it is off, from continuing to increase the temp beyond your desired temp. Hope that made sense.
You can use the ceramic cones but if you are using a wafer thermostat I would probably use something different. Back in the 90's I did make an incubator, out of a fridge, using a wafer thermostat and the ceramic cone. At that time I wasn't using the temp probe connected to a computer to tell me exactly what was going on inside. I hatched tons of chicks, I'm talking thousands. So it will work but your results may vary and if you're setup to accurately monitor your temps you'll probably find it overheats a fair bit and your temp swings are probably going to be fairly large. Going digital you can keep it within .1 above or below your desired temp, if your cabinet is insulated in some manner. The more insulation, the tighter the control will be.

Didn't mean to hijack, just passing along some of my 'learned the hard way' and over long periods of time knowledge.

Dave

Ive always wondered why folks don't use PID's more in homemade incubators..they are very affordable and guys in our line of work use them to make PID controlled forges and Kilns all the time..