Rooster not eating or acting right......comb is starting ti change color on the tips.

[lagriega]

I will check him now but thought I should try to post the video of the noise he was making....perhaps this will help. I have never heard this sound before....he has not done it since then! He was fine on Oct. 31 and I noticed he was not right on Nov 3. I found him Sept.13th and got the hens from a friend Oct. 15th....they were not well cared for and are all different ages. I should also mention they are all bantams. Does the size make a difference for the dosing of the meds. I can not download from my computer to the forum.....If you want I can emial to you if you think this will help. Just checked him....I see nothing unusual on the legs joints etc.....Look normal to me. Should I raise the dose on the Duramycin - 10 tonight or wait till the morning and should I change to one of the other antiobotics tomorrow if I can find them or continue with what I have. Do I need to treat the hens.....I think I seperated then yesterday? I was going to waait till morning to give him the water again by dropper but perhaps I need to do this tonight and more often being he does not drink on his own.
What do you suggest? How much water with meds should I give him at a time and how often.

 

[Eggcessive]

The medicines mixed in the water are dosed for any size chicken, since they will only drink enough for their weight. But if he isn't drinking, you will need to carefully give it to him. I would just add medicine to the Duramycin water if he hasn't taken much, especially since you may decide to switch medicines tomorrow. Or you could mix new tonight. Michael may have a suggestion about changing the medicines, but Denagard is almost always only available online, which would take days to a week to get. Tylan injectable is usually at most feed store in the cattle medicines. I prefer to offer the water up to the beak to get them to drink in a small cup, or dip the beak into it while letting them swallow and take a breath. Crop feeding can be done to get liquids and food into him, and it sounds like he needs it. Here is a link on crop feeding: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/805728/go-team-tube-feeding

 

[lagriega]

It seems that the blue color on the tips of his comb have turned back to red! I do offer him the water in a tiny cup like you mentioned or from his waterer and if he drinks fine if not that is when I put the dropper on the side of his beak and he does drink on his own....I do not have to force it....he just drinks. About the Tylan injectabel if I have to go that route I have no idea how to inject or dose.....A bit scared to inject but if it will help him I know I can do it. I will check out the link for the crop feeding.....I did get enough food / water in him so that I could feel it in his crop/crawl! not sure if it is enough but I could feel a nice size pouch. Do you think I will need to treat the hens or just wait and se if they get sick? Perhaps I should get some of Denagard to keep on hand if I ever need it in the future so I will have it and not have to wait for it to come. Thank You so much for your advice....it makes me fell better to have someone to talk to that has the knowledge that I do not have.

 

[lagriega]

.....I started him on the Duramycin -10 Tetracycline Hydrochloride Soluble Powder on Wed night (upped the dose as Eggessive said)....yesterday he seemed so much better....eating good for me with coaxing him and he was getting fluid in him. Today he is acting much better....but sounds more congested than yesterday and is on day 3 of antibiotic ! I am also giving hime the VetRx under the wings and back of head 1x a day.
My questions are:
Should I continue with the Duramycin -10 Tetracycline Hydrochloride Soluble Powder or switch to something else.

Michael mentioned that Denagard is good and gave me the dosing at 16ml per gallon of water for 3-5 days......others also mentioned that there was a Tyland Soluble Powder. I am not sure what to do . I do not feel comfortable giving the Tyland injection with out having someone show me so would rather wait on that. I am new to Chickens and this board!

Also I do not know if with these antiobiotics if given to hen can we eat the eggs? so far the hens are eating and seem healthy but I have heard a few sneezes!

What is Tetroxy HCA-280 Soluble Powder (oxytetracycline HCI) Antibotic used for....If this is something I should keep on hand I will but if not I can return it.

I hope you will answer so I will know how what to do.
Thank You ,
Diane

 

[lagriega]

Bantam Rooster is on day 7 of the Duramycin 10 ....He is doing good but still a bit congested sounding at times.....finally eating and drinking on own with out coaxing him to do so. I still have him seperated from the others. Feel that I should keep him seperated and on antiobotics longer till the congestion is completly gone. What do you think?
I did worm the Bantam hens and the last day that they had meds for this was Nov 6th. I used Strike III type B medicated feed poultry dewormer (active drug Hygromycin B) and spread it out over a 4 day period. I did make sure each one got there amount of pelletts....I hand feed them. I did not give it all in one day...it was not specified on the package how long....just said 1 scoop to 1 lb of food, and make sure it was mixed with food. I did see round worms in the poop before treatment and so that is what I was treating for.....I am still seeing worms in the poop today(hoping they are dead worms from wormer) and wondering how long after the meds will worms still be killed? One or two of them must be more infected with worms because I am seeing some poop that is a peach/orange color and this is the poop that still has the worms in it....must be a bad case! I am wondering if I should treat again with the Strike III and when or should I switch to someting else and when and how should I treat. Has any one used this strik III before? Roosters poop was negative for round worms so I do not want to put him with hens till I know they are clear of the worms.
Any info will be of help to me....Thank You!

 

[Michael Apple]

Bantam Rooster is on day 7 of the Duramycin 10 ....He is doing good but still a bit congested sounding at times.....finally eating and drinking on own with out coaxing him to do so. I still have him seperated from the others. Feel that I should keep him seperated and on antiobotics longer till the congestion is completly gone. What do you think?

I wouldn't take him out of quarantine until there are no symptoms. The duration of Duramycin treatment is 7-14 days and no more. Are there any molds or excessive amounts of dust the bird may have been exposed to? Capillary worms can cause respiratory trouble by migrating into the esophagus or crop. Just a few things to consider since you are treating for worms/respiratory infection. An antiobiotic is supposed to suppress secondary infection to a virus, and it is not until the virus runs its course that symptoms are overcome.

The risk of prolonged antibiotic use depletes intestinal flora and lack of vitamins/minerals the bird may otherwise need through supplementation. 7 days of treatment is not too long if the bird is showing improvement. Tylosin, doxycycline , and amoxicillin are all more effective than tetracyclines for respiratory infections. You may want to change medication if you do not see improvement beyond what you saw before treatment began with tetracycline. Ask me for recommendations and I can tell you where to acquire them.

I did worm the Bantam hens and the last day that they had meds for this was Nov 6th. I used Strike III type B medicated feed poultry dewormer (active drug Hygromycin B) and spread it out over a 4 day period. I did make sure each one got there amount of pelletts....I hand feed them. I did not give it all in one day...it was not specified on the package how long....just said 1 scoop to 1 lb of food, and make sure it was mixed with food. I did see round worms in the poop before treatment and so that is what I was treating for.....I am still seeing worms in the poop today(hoping they are dead worms from wormer) and wondering how long after the meds will worms still be killed? One or two of them must be more infected with worms because I am seeing some poop that is a peach/orange color and this is the poop that still has the worms in it....must be a bad case! I am wondering if I should treat again with the Strike III and when or should I switch to someting else and when and how should I treat. Has any one used this strik III before? Roosters poop was negative for round worms so I do not want to put him with hens till I know they are clear of the worms.
Any info will be of help to me....Thank You!

I have used pelleted/crumbled dewormers consisting of Hygromycin-B. I was not assured they were eating enough of it to see improvement no matter whether I moistened feed or fed it dry. Direct dosage dewormers are the most assured way to remove intestinal worms, be it tablets or liquid suspensions. Worms will always exist, and if they are a recurring problem, 4 times a year may be necessary instead of 2 times a year. Much depends on environment. The drier the environment, and fewer vectors such as beetles, slugs, snails, wild bird contact, and access to numerous earthworms the less likely intestinal worms will be a problem in the flock.

Like antibiotics, dewormers must be rotated when used. Using the same medication continually can build resistance for the target. Piperazine and Ivermectin are perfect examples of medications intestinal worms have become resistant to.

 

[lagriega]

Hi Michael....Thank you for the reply. There are no molds or excessive dust where the Rooster is or was that I can think or or see......right now he is inside our house in a dog crate......and I clean any poop out of the cage the min I see it. I did have his poop checked at the vets and they said there were no worms. Would the Capillary worms show in the poop if they migrated to the crop or esophagus? I was giving him many earth worms for about a week or two when he was gardening with me....I thought I was doing a good thing till I read that they can cause Capillary worms !!!!! Is this true? Are the dry meal worms that you can give as a treat also a cause for worms? I like to give them to all as a treat once in a while but have not done so since all this has happened.
Should I worm him at this time......and is it safe to wrom and give other meds at the smae time?

He has so totally responded to the Duramycin 10....he was just about dead when this all started. It is just this nasel stuffieness sound that I hear especially when I am feeding him the wet crumbles (that have the medicated water in it) and sometimes after he crows ther is a funny reverb sound. It sounds like congestion is in the nose when he is eating.....His chest sounds good....does not seem to sound congested there.

You said to ask for recommendations and I would like your help......I do feel that the Duramycin10 has worked but I am wondering if I shoul continue with it because of the nasel sound or switch now to another antiobotic only because of the nasel sound....and if so which one. Perhaps the nasel sound I an hearing is what you mentioned.... "it is not until the virus runs its course that symptoms are overcome". He started being sick 10 days ago.

You had mentioned in the past for me to get the Denagard and others mentioned to get Tylan are these in the family of the Tylosin, doxycycline , and amoxicillin ? I am not ready to give any injections at this point....just do not feel confident in myself to do this! Please advise me what is best to do at this point for him and what I should get to have on hand if this happens again. I am not sure how he got this perhaps from the hens.....If I need to give any supplements to him please let me know what I need to give and the dose.

As for the worms.....I am asuming the worms I am seeing in the hens now are a result of the wormer that was last given on Nov 6th..... I know that each hen got the medicated pelletts in the correct amount....I put it in their mouths....over a course of 4 days. If continue to see the worms after a week should I worm the hens again? What would you suggest me to use and the dose. I was given the hens recently and they were not well taken care of from where I got them.....I do not think they were ever wormed other than the wormer I gave them. They are all different ages and size.
I welcome the information and help from you.....Let me know the course I should take at this time.
Thank You

 

[lagriega]

Ok....took him oputside for a bit today not that long because rain was on the way....He was so happy....picked a bit at the clover.....Hope that was ok......walked and flew a bit. He sure does have his energy back. Will start wormer (strike III) tomorrow.

The worms I am seeing are big...like broken pieces of thin cooked spagetti.....I am sure they are round worms and the vet confirmed it with the poop sample. I do not see the tape worms....looking like pieces of rice...familar with both having dogs and cats in the past. Also with some of their poop it looks like a peach color like a flesh color now ....before treatment I did see blood too but now just the peach color. I do think that the worms look parilized not moving when I see them.

Now to make sure I am doing some other things correct......
I am feeding now to all Purina Start and grow medicated.......I did read something you posted about the medicated after I had started them on it. I started with this because of the age differences and most being small and not properly nurished when I got them. Did not want to start with the layer till they were more mature because of the calcium. What should I be feeding them next? We have here in NJ in our town Tractor Supply & Grappo's to purchase from. I did get some cracked corn to add for the winter for a bit of an added treat before roosting when cold and thought I would go from the start & grow to Dumor layer pelletts or crumble or the Purina layeria pelletts or crumble....not sure which is best ....Please let me know what you think.

I did put Diatomaceous Eart in the chicken house sprinkled on floor before I put the wood shavings and a bit on top.

I used Garden poultry dust with 0.25% permethrin to dust them when they had lice. It did work.....Wondering if I should sprinkle in their house on the roosts and around?

I have Sav a chick Probiotic and save a chick Electrolyte....not sure if it is only for chicks or also for grown birds. This was all they had.

Have but did not use as of yet Backyard Chicken Zyfend A...was told this is good to use after treating for worms and on a regular basis!!!!!!!

Saw some articles about Oxine....wondering if this is something good to have and use for disenfecting and washing food containers ,waterers etc. and for the birds?

I only give and use the Dried meal worms as a treat and to get them to become my buddies! What are good treats?

What about giving them picked grass and clover and such from the yard....I know that it can be contaminated from the flying birds in the yard....I was doing this before but have stopped after reading about MG. Is it good to give cabbage/lettuce/carrott and such for them to peck at to lesen the bordom? Let me know what is ok to do here. They do LOVE the greens from the yard......and I know they are missing it!

I would like to hear your reccomendations on all of these products,food and care. I know that I started off bad with the hens not being in the best of health when I got them....I should have know better and not taken the birds ( I felt if I did not take them they had no chance)......but I want to do the best I can now starting them in their new house. The Rooster seemed to be in great health untill he came in contact with the hens....but he could have gotten sick from something else too....who knows I did not have him that long either and have no idea of his background.. So please let me know what you think. I do really appreciate all the time you have spent giving me information, and I hope it will be of help to others that read the posts too. Being a New Egg is a learning experience!
Thank You once again,
Diane

 

[Eggcessive]

Tylosin is the generic name for Tylan. Doxycycline is a member of the tetracycline family of antibiotics. I'm so glad that he seems to be improving. It is difficult to tell a virus from a bacterial or mycoplasmal disease, but if he has a virus, it will have to run it's course. The Duramycin 10 can be given up to 14 days according to the label. SaveAChick probiotics will work on adult chickens. Probios Dispersible Powder will go farther in the long run. Gro2Max is a newer probiotic to add to the water which contains pediacoccus, which may help in prevention of coccidiosis. Here is a link for a deal on it in bulk: http://www.amazon.com/Gro-2-max-Pou...e=UTF8&qid=1415927957&sr=8-2&keywords=gro2max

 

[Michael Apple]

Ok....took him oputside for a bit today not that long because rain was on the way....He was so happy....picked a bit at the clover.....Hope that was ok......walked and flew a bit. He sure does have his energy back. Will start wormer (strike III) tomorrow.

Good news. Glad to hear it.

The worms I am seeing are big...like broken pieces of thin cooked spagetti.....I am sure they are round worms and the vet confirmed it with the poop sample. I do not see the tape worms....looking like pieces of rice...familar with both having dogs and cats in the past. Also with some of their poop it looks like a peach color like a flesh color now ....before treatment I did see blood too but now just the peach color. I do think that the worms look parilized not moving when I see them.

Now to make sure I am doing some other things correct......
I am feeding now to all Purina Start and grow medicated.......I did read something you posted about the medicated after I had started them on it. I started with this because of the age differences and most being small and not properly nurished when I got them. Did not want to start with the layer till they were more mature because of the calcium. What should I be feeding them next? We have here in NJ in our town Tractor Supply & Grappo's to purchase from. I did get some cracked corn to add for the winter for a bit of an added treat before roosting when cold and thought I would go from the start & grow to Dumor layer pelletts or crumble or the Purina layeria pelletts or crumble....not sure which is best ....Please let me know what you think.

Do you have an estimation on ages of birds? If you think they are beyond 5 months of age, it should be safe to use a layer ration. There are better rations than Purina (who also makes Dumor), but am not sure what else may be available in your area. Purina, owned by Land O' Lakes, is regularly on the FDA recall list for nutrient deficient feed, so I'd avoid them:
http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm393549.htm
Pellets or crumbles are just differences of preference. I prefer pellets since there is less waste (birds don't like powdery feed). Many brands of lay rations produce the same formulation in pelleted form or crumble form. Birds accustomed to crumbles may take time to adjust to pellets, and hunger is the motivator.

I did put Diatomaceous Eart in the chicken house sprinkled on floor before I put the wood shavings and a bit on top.

That won't repel ectoparasites, but may help with reducing moisture. Don't waste your time with that. Pine shavings, so long as they aren't getting soaked from spilled water or rain, reduce moisture enough. DE, despite the trends and claims, is pretty useless. I tested it out for awhile and it is a waste of money. It will not deworm birds either.

I used Garden poultry dust with 0.25% permethrin to dust them when they had lice. It did work.....Wondering if I should sprinkle in their house on the roosts and around?
The walls, roosts, ceiling, and floor of the house can be sprayed with these solutions to kill individual insects not on the birds:
Ravap EC
Permectrin II
Rabon 50 WP (wettable powder)
Malathion
Rotating the use of sprays reduces the possibility of resistance from ectoparasites. Emulsified concentrates have a better residual. It is important to follow label recommendations and allow sprays to dry on surfaces. The mixture rate is generally reduced to half when used on birds compared to premises. When treating the coop, remove birds, and allow premises to dry before giving birds access to the coop. Remove feeders and waterers from areas where drift of sprays may happen.

I have Sav a chick Probiotic and save a chick Electrolyte....not sure if it is only for chicks or also for grown birds. This was all they had.

Both are decent and fine for your birds.

Have but did not use as of yet Backyard Chicken Zyfend A...was told this is good to use after treating for worms and on a regular basis!!!!!!!

Who told you that? There are products out there that make many claims, so be careful about claims versus facts. Probiotics, vitamins, minerals, and a good diet is all that is needed after treating for worms.

Saw some articles about Oxine....wondering if this is something good to have and use for disenfecting and washing food containers ,waterers etc. and for the birds?

Oxine is safer and more powerful than many other disinfectants. I've used it for a number of years. Here is an article about its uses:
http://www.shagbarkbantams.com/oxine.htm

I only give and use the Dried meal worms as a treat and to get them to become my buddies! What are good treats?

A good formulated feed and what they get free ranging. I supplement kale when range grass is dry during the summer and fall. I supplement certain animal proteins and other things of value to their diet. If you'd like in depth info, Feeding Poultry by G.F. Heuser is a good source of information:
http://www.nortoncreekpress.com/feeding_poultry.html

What about giving them picked grass and clover and such from the yard....I know that it can be contaminated from the flying birds in the yard....I was doing this before but have stopped after reading about MG. Is it good to give cabbage/lettuce/carrott and such for them to peck at to lesen the bordom? Let me know what is ok to do here. They do LOVE the greens from the yard......and I know they are missing it!

Well, you can't raise birds in a lab, so I wouldn't discourage ranging at all. Birds will either be resistant to disease or not. Mine come in contact with wild birds on range and it is unavoidable. So the best thing to do is supplement with a good diet to keep immune systems strong. Immunity begins in the intestinal tract. Avoid hard, fibrous feedstuffs like carrots. Much of the greenery chickens get from range grasses. Provide granite grit like one would salt and pepper food. A little baby kale a couple times a week is okay when they can't get to range grasses.

I would like to hear your reccomendations on all of these products,food and care. I know that I started off bad with the hens not being in the best of health when I got them....I should have know better and not taken the birds ( I felt if I did not take them they had no chance)...

Hey, you did an honorable thing taking in some of God's creatures, just know that looking birds over for ectoparasites, treating for cocci and worms, and keeping them separate from existing birds you may have for at least a month is necessary to prevent an outbreak of disease.

...but I want to do the best I can now starting them in their new house. The Rooster seemed to be in great health untill he came in contact with the hens....but he could have gotten sick from something else too....who knows I did not have him that long either and have no idea of his background.. So please let me know what you think. I do really appreciate all the time you have spent giving me information, and I hope it will be of help to others that read the posts too. Being a New Egg is a learning experience!
Thank You once again,
Diane

You're welcome. I hope the info helps. I've been raising birds for a long time and I'm still learning.