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Coolest Rabbit Breed Out Of These?

  • Holland Lop

    Votes: 108 21.3%
  • English Spot

    Votes: 14 2.8%
  • American Fuzzy Lop

    Votes: 11 2.2%
  • Mini Rex/Rex

    Votes: 107 21.1%
  • New Zealand

    Votes: 94 18.6%
  • Polish

    Votes: 13 2.6%
  • English Lop

    Votes: 33 6.5%
  • Mini Satins/Satins

    Votes: 14 2.8%
  • Lionhead

    Votes: 112 22.1%

  • Total voters
    506
The answer is fairly simple, though the explanation gets a little complicated, so bear with me. 

There are a bunch of different genes that influence a rabbit's color; it is the interaction of all of them that determines what color the rabbit is. Some genes only have two possible forms (black vs. chocolate, dilute vs. non-dilute), while others have several possibilities; we call them gene "series."

The A series has 3 possibilities: Agouti(A), Tan(a[SUP]t[/SUP]), and Self(a). Self is the most recessive gene in the A series. for a rabbit to be a self, it must have 2 copies of the self gene. Tan (including Marten and Otter) is the next step up in the series; tans have the white "trim" like the agoutis, but the body color of a self. A tan may have two copies of the tan gene, or one tan and one self. Agouti is the most dominant form in the A series. As long as a rabbit has 1 copy of the agouti gene, it will be agouti patterned, and you can't tell just by looking whether the rabbit has 2 agouti genes, an agouti and a tan, or an agouti and a self. When you have one known, more dominant member of a gene pair, and one unknown member, the pair is written like this: A_. That means you know this animal is an agouti  (because it is expressing the agouti pattern), but you don't know what other gene it is carrying but not expressing.

Tort may not look it, but it is a self-based color. Torts have two copies of the self pattern gene (aa). The other gene series that is critical to producing a tort is the E series. In that series, there are several possibilities, but the one that produces self is the non-extension gene (e). Non-extension is the most recessive in the series, so for it to be expressed, the rabbit has to have 2 copies of it (ee). Because it is the most recessive, it can hide behind the other genes in the series, ,most notably the full-color gene (E). 

To keep this post as short as possible, I won't explain what all of the other genes do; but you may have seen colors laid out by the genes that are required to produce them, like this:

A_ B_C_D_E_enen vv(Chestnut Agouti)

Here are the crosses you have mentioned, with the critical genes highlighted:

A_B_c[SUP]chd[/SUP]_D_ eevv (Frosty)  x  aaB_C_ddeeVv (VM Blue Tort)  ----> aaB_C_D_eevv (tort)  because the Frosty and the Blue Tort only have non-extension genes in the E series, all of their babies will get a non-extension gene from both of them. The Blue Tort only has self in the A series; obviously, this Frosty has a self gene there too, since this cross resulted in a Tort.

aaB_cchl_D_eeenenvv (Sable Point)  x  aaB_C_ddE_Enenvv (Broken Blue) ---> aaB_C_D_eeenenvv (tort) Both of these parents have only self genes (a) so that's all they can give to their offspring. Clearly, though the Broken Blue has one full-color gene in the E series, he must have a non-extension gene that he isn't expressing, since he gave it to his offspring.


                                                         aaB_c[SUP]chl[/SUP]cddeeenenvv (Pearl Point)
a[SUP]t[/SUP]_B_C_D_eeenenvv (Torted Otter)  x                                                         ----> aaB_C_D_eeenenvv (Tort) 
                                                        a[SUP]t[/SUP]_B_c[SUP]chl[/SUP]cD_E_enenvv (Sable Marten)

If you get self-patterned babies from Otters or Martens, clearly, those tan-patterned rabbits are carrying but not expressing a self gene. Not hard, but kind of funny when that's all you get!


Well when you put it that way, you gotta wonder what the importance of a pedigree is! Lol other than to see who's lines are in your rabbit's background and what wins they have. Well, not so much the purpose of the pedigree but why some people make a such a big deal over them.
 
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Thank you SA Farm! I like having bunnies so far.

Grace is a nzw x silver fox and is quite dark, her dad is also nzw x sf and is blue. Her mom looks like her, and her mom & dad throw out white, brown eyes white, blue and idk what Grace is considered color wise.

I'm excited to have baby bunnies soon, in about 8 weeks or so we should have baby bunnies by Grace and I can either breed her with a 16 lb nzw or her blue nzw x sf blue daddy.
 
Hey all rabbit people I'm wanting your opinions!!! I have a NZW doe that is about 2 years old I got a little over a month ago and I put her in my empty chicken pen for a while than put my NZW buck in there for a few days and than took him out and eventually took the doe out. I put the buck in on the 3rd of this month and the 28th day since he's been in there will be October 1st,and yesterday morning she was carrying around a mouthful of straw and earlier I gave her a handful and she was carrying it around but she hasn't pulled fur yet. The 31st day will be next Saturday,I looked under the hutch and I didn't see any nipples. I'm wondering what you guys think,if you think it might be a false pregnancy or not or what your best advice would be thanks in advance
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And I rubbed her lower stomach but I was afraid to squeeze cause I don't want to kill them

If she's due shortly, I wouldn't risk palpating. Palpating is usually done around day 12-15 to have the best chance of finding out without harming the developing kits.
Carrying straw/hay around is a good sign. I would give her two weeks and if she doesn't kindle, I would rebreed her.
Here's a youtube video that demonstrates how to palpate for future reference. (He goes a little overboard IMO, but this video is what put it all together for me when I was learning about it.)
 
Im getting a REW buck here shortly! hes got !leg on him! hes got amazing fur type, hes a small buck(exactly what i need) hes well built, nice and round amazing stops! and i could keep going but, ill do that when iget him.
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If she's due shortly, I wouldn't risk palpating. Palpating is usually done around day 12-15 to have the best chance of finding out without harming the developing kits.
Carrying straw/hay around is a good sign. I would give her two weeks and if she doesn't kindle, I would rebreed her.
Here's a youtube video that demonstrates how to palpate for future reference. (He goes a little overboard IMO, but this video is what put it all together for me when I was learning about it.)
Thank you,I really hope she is and yes I think the straw carrying is a good sign
 
Hi! I'm Breanna, and I'm kind of new to rabbits! We are breeding for meat, and up until last week had a NZW/Cali buck, 2 NZW does, and a black New Zealand doe. The black doe reached breeding age a little over a month ago, and the buck was two weeks younger. I decided to attempt to breed. Checked her two weeks later, couldn't feel anything. Waited another week to observe her, had no signs, so I checked her again, and rebred. She's a very aggressive doe, so I didn't get her back out to check her again. If pregnant, however, she will be due oct 2, so I just plan to put in a nesting box tomorrow and see what happens. She will be culled if not pregnant, or after weaning, as she is way too skittish and agressive, and has chewed through heavy duty wire 3 times in 3 months! I'd like to get more than one rabbit for $20 though! Lol
We had an unfortunate event this past week. A neighbors dog came in the middle of the night, and pulled my bucks leg through the bottom wire (1/2"x1/2", and 4ft off the ground!) and bit his leg off, killing him. I had to go yesterday and purchase a new buck, full NZW. While there, they showed me a silver fox doe they had, who is 9 months, in which they were debating keeping. They have just started silver fox breeding, and she was a doe they purchased who, unlike their other silver foxes, was unpedigreed, and about a pound less than their other does (but also about 4 months younger). They are great breeders and have over 100 rabbits. We decided to purchase her as well and get into breeding silver foxes down the road.
When we went to get her out, her nipples were quite prominent and she was pretty fat. They said she has not been in the same pen as any bucks, and they've had her since April. She was beside their breeding NZ buck Now I know how the whole breeding process works... But what could be going on!?? They told me to put a nesting box in with her for the next 2 weeks just incase something strange may have happened, which they doubted, but wanted to be safe, since they just lost a litter of 6 because the previous owner did not tell them the doe they purchased was bred. They also told me if she wasn't bred, call them and I can bring her back to breed to their SF buck.
Anyway, glad to meet other rabbit breeders!
 
@bre113 Sorry about your buck. Yes, dogs can break into even well-built cages if they have a high enough prey drive. I have owned a few rabbits that lost toes to dogs that got under cages; a dog can damage a rabbit so badly that way that the owner has no choice but to put the rabbit down. It's best to make sure that even the incidental predator won't have access to the cage; they can do a lot of damage very quickly.
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Also, about your new doe - I have never seen how they do it, but rabbits can breed through cage wire. It's not really common, but I keep an eye on any doe that is caged next to a buck, and at least make sure that the buck and doe are the same breed, just in case.
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@SternRose Your soon-to-be new buck sounds great, can't wait to see him!
 
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