Chicken Coop Ventilation - Go Out There And Cut More Holes In Your Coop!

Why is ventilation such a big deal? Because chickens are amazing producers of moisture, ammonia and heat, that's why.
By patandchickens · Jan 11, 2012 · Updated Dec 7, 2014 · ·
  1. patandchickens
    Go out there and cut more holes in your coop!
    Now! Really truly!


    Why is ventilation such a big deal?

    Because chickens are amazing producers of moisture, ammonia and heat, that's why. Small but mighty! (Mighty messy anyhow).
    1) Ventilation removes dampness and humidity from the coop. Chickens generate scary amounts of water vapor, partly through breathing out (same as we do, that's why a mirror fogs when you breathe on it), and largely through pooing (chickens do not urinate as such - all the water they would be peeing out if they were any other sort of animal is contained in their poo). They process a lot more water than you might think. All of this water tends to make the coop air humid. High relative humidity (especially in cooler temperatures) makes chickens more susceptible to respiratory disease and increases the chance of frostbite. Chickens can stand considerable cold without frostbite if the air is dry; not so much if the air is clammy.

    2) Ventilation removes ammonia fumes from the coop. Unless you sit there all the time, ready to whisk each plop of poo away to the compost pile the moment it comes out of the chicken, there will be some ammonia being released into your coop's atmosphere. It does not take all that much ammonia to cause subclinical damage to the tissues of the chicken's respiratory tract, which makes the chicken more vulnerable to any respiratory 'bugs' that may be floatin' around the environment. Basically if your nose can smell ammonia, there is enough of it to be harmful to lung tissues.

    3) Ventilation usually helps keep the coop from getting too hot in summer. Chickens' bodies perform best below about 75 degrees F; over 90 F they start to have real problems, suffer heat stress, and if it gets too hot they can die, especially larger-bodied and heavier-feathered breeds. Proper ventilation will at least keep your coop from getting any hotter than the outside air.

    When do I need ventilation?
    Always. Yes, even in cold weather. Yes, even in northern cold weather. Realio trulio. There may be a night now and then when it's so vastly cold you close things down, or if you're having a hurricane you may close the vent flaps and windows so that the weather stays outdoors, but those sorts of things will be rare exceptions, not the rule.

    Types of ventilation
    Passive (natural) ventilation means that you have openings that air flows through with no help from you or the power grid -- just the natural action of wind and the tendency of warm air to rise. Passive ventilation includes an open window, a ventilation slot, a louvered gable-end vent, that sort of thing.
    Passive ventilation is the easiest, cheapest, safest, and most foolproof method for the vast majority of backyard coops, in my opinion. Build lots of it.
    Wind turbine ventilation means those spinning turbine things, about the size of a basketball, that you mount on a building's roof. When the wind blows, it spins the blades and they suck air actively out of the coop. This can move a goodly amount of air, but only if the wind is blowing. When the wind stops, it becomes a smallish hole in the roof, period.
    Active (mechanical) ventilation means using an electric fan, generally plug-in although small solar powered units do exist. This allows you to get greater air movement with smaller holes in your coop walls, but with several important drawbacks. You really ought to get a fan designed for dusty and outdoorsy environments (designed for barn or workshop use), which costs more - a house fan will very quickly clog with dust and stop working or die altogether. Even appropriate fans need to be cleaned regularly or their performance becomes poor and they can become a fire hazard. Also, if your power supply fails, so does your coop air quality (solar units usually run only when the sun is actually shining on them, so are no use at night).
    Opening the door a couple times a day to walk in and out of the coop does not count as 'ventilation', sorry.

    So how much ventilation do I need?
    More than you probably think. More, proportionately speaking, than you're used to seeing on a house, or doghouse, or garden shed, or things like that. It is really impressive how much water vapor (as well as ammonia and heat) even just a chicken or two will emit, round the clock, day in day out.
    So the best answer is probably "as much as (or slightly more than) you can reasonably build". Honestly, that is the simplest, easiest, most foolproof way to go. It is ever so much better to have more than you need than to need more than you have! Especially if "needing more than you have" comes down to a trip out back with the reciprocating saw to hack big ugly holes in your nice pretty trimmed-and-finished coop in the depths of January. Plan ahead.
    If you really want me to suggest numbers: if summer heat is not a big problem where you live, then you will most likely be fine if you build at least 1 sq ft of vent opening per chicken, or (if you want a lower but therefore less-conservative number) 1 sq ft of vent opening per 10 sq ft of floor area. In a hot area, you will need more for summertime, possibly just having one or more walls being totally hardwarecloth. If you have unusually few chickens for your size of coop, or live in a very dry area, you may be fine with less ventilation; if your chickens are very crowded, your climate wet, your coop full of poo, or the bedding is wet for any reason, then you may need more than the above numbers.
    All vents should have doors/flaps/covers/what-have-you so that parts can be closed down when not desired. Unless you're in a climate that stays fairly warmish year-round, covers should be draft-proof. Either they should fit very snugly, or be weatherstripped in places the chickens can't peck, or (sometimes simplest) the ones you're not going to ever use in cool weather can just be "decommissioned" at the end of the summer, panels bolted over them, and any gaps sealed til Spring in some manner the chickens won't peck at. In areas where cool weather is not all that cool and only lasts a few months, you can reverse the concept -- just build one or more walls entirely of wire (on studs) and simply cover 'em with plywood or plastic for your so-called winter.
    If you live in a hot climate, you need large areas of ventilation that can be opened up on all 4 walls, and really it is best if one or more walls can be pretty much removed entirely so they're just screen (like hardwarecloth). In a climate where it never gets really all that hot, you can probably skip the whole-wall-coming-off part... unless you are in a desert-y area with giant temperature swings from day to night, in which case you may still want something of that sort. But even up North it is far-and-away best to have the ability to fling open the hatches and get lots and lots of fresh air. If nothing else, this will be of great assistance to you in drying the coop out if you should ever find yourself needing to hose down or disinfect the inside!
    Securely screen your vents, whatever the size, with something like hardwarecloth that predators can't rip off, climb between, or grab handsfulls of chickens through.
    "What if I just use a hole-saw to put a buncha 2" holes in the walls and screen them, that'll be good, right?" Unfortunately, a 2" diameter hole is about 3 square inches of total area. To put this in perspective, a square foot is 144 square inches. You would need almost 50 holes to equal one square foot of ventilation, and a typical coop is going to need MUCH more than just one square foot of ventilation! So, no little round holes. You want actual decent-sized openings, like 6" x 4' or 1'x3' or like that, on most if not all of the walls.


    Ventilation yes: drafts NO
    While ventilation aka air exchange is necessary and good, having cold air aimed right at your chickens is BAD. (I'm talking about in cool weather, here, not your 'pleasant cooling breeze on stifling August day' which would of course be good.) Small "air leak" type gaps can also cause condensation and frost, which nullifies much of the value of what ventilation you have. So you need to design your ventilation intelligently.
    Ventilation that you'll be using in cool/cold weather (i.e. all year-round) should be high up above chicken level, at the tops of the walls, ideally protected from rain and wind to some degree by roof overhangs. You can put vent slots, long and relatively narrow, atop all four walls. (By narrow I mean like 4"-8" wide or something like that, not an inch or two width of 'arrow slot', unless it is a small coop for just a couple few chickens.) Vents near the roost are good in hot weather but bad in cold weather. Ask yourself "will a chicken experience a noticeable breeze on the roost in the winter?" If yes, arrange things so you can shut down those vents when temperatures drop.
    You'll want additional ventilation for warmer weather, that can (should!) be lower down where the chickens can catch some breeze. Windows work; giant removable wall panels work; that sort of thing.
    Do the coop 'people door' and pophole count? Sort of. I mean, yes, they do provide ventilation when they are open, but remember that they will not always be open and you need to be able to provide sufficient airflow even when they aren't. I would not suggest counting on them towards your basic ventilation needs.
    Manage your ventilation intelligently -- you will want to change the amount that's open according to the weather, although as mentioned you don't want to shut it all down except in very rare instances. Sometimes you'll want to close upwind vents if it's getting too windy in the coop on a windy day.
    In a really windy site, you may want to build some sort of baffle or hood for some of the usually-upwind vents (the high year-round ones) to blunt the force of the wind.

    What about winter? Don't I need to close the vents to keep the chickens warm?
    NO. Well ok, yeah, you will close some of them down, relative to summer conditions; but you still need a goodly amount of air exchange going on, so you cannot shut your ventilation off.
    In some ways ventilation is actually more important in winter because cold air can't hold nearly so much water vapor before it gets saturated i.e. really damp and humid and clammy, i.e. you're trolling for frostbite and respiratory disease.
    So yes, your vents will be letting in cold air, but you know what, that's OK as long as it is not breezing down directly at your chickens. If you're concerned about the chickens getting too cold -- although most standard-sized breeds are fine down to freezing and significantly below, as long as the air is dry and relatively still and they have an appropriate-width roost and plenty of food -- then insulate your coop. And yes, insulation is quite useful even with vents open (for some reason this issue comes up often); would you think it pointless to wear a winter coat just 'cuz you had no hat on? :p What insulation does is reduce heat loss from the coop so that you can afford to admit more cold air without making the place too cold.
    In a super-cold climate, and let me say that I do not consider southern Ontario Canada where I live to fall into this category (!), you may want to think about arranging for your vents to be taking air in from a somewhat thermally-buffered source... a predatorproofed flue run along the ground a ways and covered in insulation, or a translucently-enclosed space that the sun warms, or the building's attic, or a larger barn, or like that.

    Some links with useful further information about ventilating chicken quarters:
    They're mostly aimed at big commercial barns (poultry and otherwise), but there is a lot that applies just as well to our little backyard coops, so take a look:

    Check out this great discussion with pictures: Do I have enough ventilation?

    Coop & Run - Design, Construction & Maintenance Forum Section

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    N F C, MayaB, mudgrl92 and 21 others like this.

Recent User Reviews

  1. Tara Bear
    "Thank you for the education!!"
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed Jun 1, 2019
    Fantastic information that is explained clearly!! The article covers so many questions I had about ventilation. Thank you.
  2. Trux
    "Great Read"
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed May 23, 2019
    Thanks for posting! Very informative for all levels of us chicken keepers:thumbsup It is also a subject that needs more attention apparently, as people don't realize how important ventilation can be to the health of your flock.
  3. tlatham72
    "Very Informative & Organized Presentation"
    5/5, 5 out of 5, reviewed May 14, 2019
    Thank you for this article. I'm trying to design my first coop for my first flock of chickens (to come). Ventilation is one of the topics I've been confused about still. You did a good job of explaining the difference between ventilation and a draft and the types of ventilation and ways to add ventilation to a coop. Specifically, I now know how to work some specific ventilation into the coop design to be used in the summer months. I do still have a question or two about summer -- generally, what do you do for ventilation at night? My instinct is to close up the windows and other ventilation that is down low for extra safety from predators, but it seems like I may need to leave the additional ventilation open even at night. Thoughts anyone?

    I plan to have 4-6 hens purely for pets. I'll, of course eat their eggs, but egg production isn't my primary goal. Since they will be like part of the family (hopefully) and since I live in the country, I'm crazy worried about predators and plan to go to the greatest lengths in coop design to keep them safe. So the thought of lots of open ventilation at night frightens me. I know it should all be covered with hardware cloth, no open holes, no large holes, but is this enough? Or can I close up the ventilation not near the roof at night? I, of course, want them to be cool and comfy. Maybe I should include insulation in my coop walls? Or a fan? I swear I'd even add an AC if it kept them safe from predators. LOL

    I live in northwest (upstate) South Carolina. Summers get very hot. 90s. And usually a week or few days here and there in August that may hit very high 90s or slip over 100. My coop and run are going to sit off the edge of my back yard into the edge of my woods in a small clearing that is very shaded. My coop and the attached run will be about 9-10 ft tall. The run will be wood frame and hardware cloth with a shingled or metal slanted shed roof.

    Again, fantastic article. Before reading, I had pretty much no understanding of ventilation other than I needed it.


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  1. NoodlesMama
    Loved that they specified that they don't consider southern Ontario super cold it lets me know how this will apply where I live. I'm building a larger coop and run for my lovely ladies and people who don't keep chickens keep telling me they will freeze with so many windows and vent holes but reading this I feel right on track with it. If they keep bugging me about it I will show them this.
  2. hunthaven
    I had plans to go out an install 6" vents today . . . now I think I'm going to cut a huge hole in the door as well! Mine need more air! Great article!
      MysticUniKitty likes this.
  3. leslielbk
    No one's been here in awhile, so I'm late to the ventilation-party but I want to add that any screening/louvres/shutters need to be vacuumed out or they clog with dust. I have 1/4" hardware cloth vents that run along the roofline, but because I was overdoing it also added metal window screen. They clog up fast, and I keep an eye on the situation and clean them with a shop vac. Because chickens are so dusty, I'll change this a bit when I build the addition. I'm in central florida where hurricane season has been brutal. Ventilation has been a lot less of an issue than keeping the coop dry. So many aspects to consider but doing it right at the outset is a lot better than going "oh, *#*!! I need better rain flaps!! oh, *#*!! I need to caulk around the base!! oh, *#*!! The hens thought the caulk was worms and peeled it all off!! etc, etc, etc...
      hunthaven and Molpet like this.
    1. Molpet
      Yep mine ripped off the caulk within a week..I thought where did they get a white snake to play keep away with?? LOL
    Great read. I am planning to renovate our coop and this helps a lot with the planning. I really should have read this before starting our back yard flock.
  5. Chullicken
    Really great article. Just want to add it's important to work with your landscape and coop location whenever possible. Just placing vents as most articles describe can be counter productive. It's important to place vents where they will be the most efficient and productive, if you are not doing that its just not doing anything but causing a draft within your coop. Ideally we want to create a vortex within the structure with correctly placed venting. If you notice carpenters just don't slap holes in walls randomly on a new house, they're planned out hence soffits, ridge caps, etc. Vortexes have been shown to maintain a more consistent temperature and also allowing toxicities and humid warm air to be able to escape. Which is what we want to strive for, especially in colder months. Warmer months it can benefit from cooling the air within our coops while venting warm air full of all the nasties.
  6. BYCforlife
    Great article! On my 12x14 foot coop, I have a 2x2 window open always, and a regular sized door open, with a chicken wire "screen" door to keep the chickens in. I will also be cutting a window in the other end of the coop before I have a lot of chickens in it.
      SAPPERGARDENER and Smuvers Farm like this.
  7. lazy gardener
    Excellent, well written article. I have: soffit, eave and floor level louvered vents. 3 windows, pop door, human door, and 2 other doors that can be opened as needed. The only vent that is closed off during the winter is the floor level vent. 2 of 3 windows stay cracked open most of the winter. Coop only closed up when there is a blizzard, or if the temp stays below 0*F. Even then, I crack windows open when sun warms things up a bit. Thankfully, the coldest winter days in Maine are also the sunniest!
  8. TattooedChicks
    This was definitely in mind when I built my coop. I have two coop length vents under the eaves on the long sides of the structure, both being roughly 8’ by 4”. I currently have lengths of thin, dark fabric curtained on the inside to help my roosters sleep a little later, but I can easily open them in sections to allow more air flow, or Velcro them down during strong gusts so the roost bars stay cozy.
      SAPPERGARDENER and BYCforlife like this.
  9. BantyChooks
    How could I have missed this article? THANK YOU! Hopefully this will help dispel the "Ack, close your vents and heat the coop" nonsense I see.
      BYCforlife likes this.
  10. N F C
    Good article!
  11. knine
      Anisa67, Chullicken and Smuvers Farm like this.
    1. Chullicken
      I use the 1/2" versions of these along the peak of my salt box coop. Currently I have three of them per foot over four feet of wall space. Their great because they're made for venting, catch air as intended without blow back and are predator proof. Mine are seated in place and siliconed.
  12. Lady Di 58
    Very informative! Thanks for posting.
  13. Freisian
    Fantastic information, thank you, going out with my hole drill but tomorrow to do more ventilation on the none prevailing side of my hen house
  14. Gail Laubenthal
    I am very thankful for this article. Since I am building a new large coop, I will need to rethink the ventilation.
      SAPPERGARDENER likes this.
  15. hooktontravel
    Thanks! I'm looking at doing a small chicken house for 6-8. We have a bunch of old porch windows that have been sitting in a shed for years, and some of that corrugated fiberglass roofing. I was hoping using the corrugated stuff would give good ventilation at the top of the chicken house, while the window could be down near the roosting area and be open in summer, but closed in winter (or on rainy days...etc). the sturdy metal screening should keep mosquitoes out, and i'll add hardware cloth for the predator protection. This is for northern New England. so some winters are no biggie (like the 2015-2016 one) and others are brutal (like 2014-2015 when it was massive snows and recordbreaking cold for February). I got all large-bodied chickens, heritage breeds, and am not planning to insulate. only be sure that during winter the area where the chickens sleep is draft-free, while airflow to carry humidity out the top. I also want to deep-bed them for a little composting action to hopefully add a little warmth, so again letting the damp out the top would be really helpful...I also am going to try not lighting them in winter, so the opaque roof and large window will let all the daylight in they can get during those short, short days.
      Using an old window sounds like a great idea. I may borrow that idea as I have one sitting out in the shed also. Thanks!
  16. DreamsInPink
    This is a lot of information to process.. but thank you!
  17. Hennypenny15
    First winter with Serema Chickens. Have them in a large room inside pole barn. 2 windows, ceiling fan, regular door and screen door. Using 3 red bulb heatlamps. 1 on 16 week Serema chicks cage, 2 cages Serema sharing 1 lamp, and 1 lamp pointed at floor for 5 banam chickens. Keeps it just about 40 most of the time. My understanding is that Serema cannot withstand tempatures consistantly below 40 degrees. Door opens into barn so I have it open during day and close at night. Night tempatures have been in the high 20's to low 30's consistantly here. Does this seem like enough venting?
  18. Melinda48
    Super article. Many thanks for this.
  19. countrydreamer8
    OK I guess I'm going to try and understand this [I'm not the scientific type]. My coop has only 3 sides which faces NW;NE & S. I was thinking of putting the roofing vents along the top portion of the 3 walls but it sounds if this might not be enough. I'm using my old dog house for my coop and he was vey spoiled. Heater, air conditioned, 2 windows, insulated, carpeted etc. Anyhow the carpet is out of there and I was thinking f turning the hole that the air conditioner was in into a window for the summer time since it the NE side of the coop. the coop is only 4' x 8' and 'm only planning on 6 chickens. does this sound?
  20. Chick-e-poo
    Glad I found this article! Thanks
  21. FlyingDoughnut
    thank you i didn't know this :D
  22. alangrg3
    We have had chickens and recently moved to a new region - one that has warmer winters and hotter summers, the summer part did not scare me. I was more concerned about condensation and providing adequate ventilation on a fairly windy site during the winter (and chickens not being heavily feathered out). Thanks for all of the great info, we will be incorporating the ideas presented here and will play with durable removable panels/ tarps to deal with the worst parts of winter.
  23. Heron's Nest Farm
    I'm using a mobile coop. The floor in the middle between walls (basically the hallway down the middle) is covered with machine clothe. DO you think this might create too much of a draft? We live in Oregon where it is wet in winter and only dips below freezing for a week MAYBE in winter.
  24. gguineasfamily
    Awesome article now I'm glad I made my coop out of chicken wire and hardware cloth
  25. dogfish7
    Great stuff!
  26. KDOGG331
    great article!
  27. Angiebubs
    I live in the Midwest (Wisc) where the weather can drop to -20 quite often. I have a large coop (part of a barn) with 3 cement lower walls and wood upper walls. The 4th wall is wire covered in plastic (wall inside facing into the rest of the barn). My concern was with keeping the chickens warm. I have 35 chickens in a coop with about 200 sq ft. So I am trying to figure out if I have enough ventilation or not. I purchased a thermometer that also has a humidity reading: Does anyone know what ideal range of humidity should be inside a non commercial (no elect. fans etc) should be?
  28. beaglex3
    i think we have plenty of vents--4x8 and 4x12 inch along the top of all 4 walls, but the problem is that our roost boards also run around the top of the coop, right under, and in some cases, in front of the vents. fine in most weather, but last year we had a crazy bad winter, with weeks of sub zero temps, piles of snow and blowing wind. bcuz of that, we kept the vents closed most of the time for over 2 months. naturally we had daily condensation on the windows and a smelly coop. what's the answer to this? changing the roosts isn't really an option. nesting boxes, windows, poop boards, & people door take up the rest of the wall space. i did add a lower board and a ladder over the poop board, but they won't all fit on it. 2 of the vents are on the outdoor run side, which we keep covered in plastic all winter. would it be ok to keep those open, even in below zero temps with chickens roosting right in front of them. the almanac says we are in for another bad winter this year, so i have already been worrying about what to do. thank you!
      DawnAlexanderLong likes this.
  29. Jhawker
    Good info. Thanks!
  30. chicksurreal
    Wow! Thanks for the information! Very helpful. :)
  31. jasono
    Trying to prepare for winter. Very Helpful.
  32. Matthfoster
    I like the "rule of thumb" 1 sq ft of ventilation per 10 sq ft of coop.
  33. Our Roost
    A point of fact and interest truly needs noted here. Fecal waste contains more water than is being stressed in this article. In fact, it can be the primary source of moisture within your coop among other things besides chickens expelling moisture into the atmosphere. If in fact you dont remove these wastes from within your coop on a regular basis, you will double and even maybe triple the amount of moisture within their living area in a very short time period. Amonia is not expelled from chickens, it is contained within their waste. If you detect these odors, you most definitely need to clean up the waste. Proper ventilation is good, but dont overkill its purpose.
  34. nicole63021
    Didn't realize it should be 1 sq. ft. per bird....unintentionally ended up with 8.5 sq. ft. of ventilation with 9 birds, just because of the dimensions and placement, and not wanting an odor in summer! Will add a little more this spring, maybe making 1 of the 2 doors (human/cleaning) on each side of the coop hardware cloth, at least in summer. Maybe add a bit better angle to the roof as well for a little more "overhead" venting. Wish I had visited this page before building, such great advice!
  35. MyPetNugget
    Thanks this helped us build our coop right!
  36. Phoenixxx
    I have 19 chickens in a 6x8x8'high coop. The main vent is plastic-ed over for the winter. According to the article, the doggy-door being open 24/7 isn't enough for that many chickens yet my coop is bone dry! The man-door to the run gets opened daily except in icky weather (it's on the windward side so rain would get blown in - we get a lot of sideways-falling rain here) so you'd think after a week of it the coop would get damp but for some reason, it doesn't. I'm wondering, would the fact that I kept the dirt floor have anything to do with it?
  37. bucky52
    When we started keeping chickens,we was not aware of the husband wanted to build his own coop.the coops are not tall enough to cut vent holes in the top.we do have open doors in the bottom of the coops.So for the past five years I have had no frost bite.the coops are in secured runs.i have 30x30 run area,with wire and roofed tops.we skirted the run with burid wire and have two strands of hot wire running the length of the run.I do worry about the ventilation in the winter months.but this is the solution we could come up with.other than tearing the coops down and starting over.
  38. Shabana
    Thanks so much for this. I have ventilation but now I think not enough, so I'm off today to put that right !!
  39. PrincessTamTam
    Ventilation is important however when the article mentions that the temp might dip a bit low on a night now or then. . .we have -45 temps (yes it is the same in C and F when you get that low) for days on end, weeks on end so it is unrealistic to keep the windows open. I clean poop every morning and each day after work.I have a receiver in the coop and a digital monitor in the kitchen that gives me constant readouts of the temp and the humidity in the coop. When you refer to Northern temps I think you need to consider the harsh reality of what that means . . not just a night now or then.
  40. frodazoey
    Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
  41. marvun22
    Doesn't matter to me. My coop is in the barn and I just stuck it in my barn (where the doors are ripped off) and it has probably about 150 square feet (at least) of ventilation. But not to discount the article, great work.
  42. Our Roost
    I used to have a dehumidifier in my basement because of the ground water level being high enough to make it really damp and musty. I emptied it almost daily of over 2 gallons of water. Ventilation circulates the air and removes moisture but also lets in freezing cold temperatures which add to an already frigid condition in some northern states. I think the writer hit the nail on the head when he mentioned chicken poop containing moisture and the breathing out and expelling moisture into a closed and mostly confined and enclosed coop. Ventilation holes or vents are usually cut or installed in the upper portion or near the roof of a coop. Chickens generally roost in the upper portion of the coop right where the cold air is coming into the coop! Adequate ventilation without going to extremes needs to be considered. Keep it clean, and change your bedding often!
  43. FreeRanging Hen
    This is the perfect information I was looking for.
    I shall now arrange extra venitilation, rather than blocking off the one I have and thought was bad. how wrong was I? how close was that a call and what awesome timing!

    Thankyou for saving me heaps of trouble and possibly losses over summer.
  44. badmsm
    Do you have a picture of a properly ventilated coop? We have and A-frame tractor with 3- 3 inch vents on both ends (6 total- nesting box areas), and four wall panels that remove for cleaning. We live in the Central Valley, CA, so we have hot summers and cold winters, high winds and tuhle fog. I remove the panels each day to clean up poo and air out the coop. Is this enough to keep our girls healthy? Thanks!
  45. cluckcluckluke
    Great Article Pat and team.
    Extreamly well written, great read.
  46. slatts
    Great advice. I used some similar thoughts to build my coop in south-central texas. It is 8'x8' plan and 8'tall. The entire front side is open with hardware cloth and other open areas on the other 3 walls for cross ventilation.
  47. danib
    Thank you for writing this article. It was the most helpful one I've read so far. I live in Massachusetts where the weather is pretty extreme sometimes.. we average about 90 in the summer and about 18 in the winter. I was worried about ventilating without causing drafts.
  48. saellis
    Thank you for a great article
  49. Too Fast
    Yes thank you. Great info here!
  50. redneck farmer
    i have a 3" high an like 2an1/2 to 3 feet strip of venalation toawrds the top of my coop... is that good,great,to much???

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