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  1. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Plumbing and electric, I could live in that. Nice clean work.
  2. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    I have a much MUCH warmer, wetter climate. My impression from other posters, closer to you, is "yes" - but I'll defer to their experience on that question.
  3. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Well yes. Depending on the depth of the bird's mouths. Those are rather shallow. If they are 3/4", then your 3" x 14.5" approximation above is almost exactly right. I really should have put my glasses on and looked at the photo more closely. On a roof this shallow, I don't usually even...
  4. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    "Yes" A predator protected, free opening with some shelter from wind blown rain is exactly what you want and need. My inclination would be to put the human door on the gable end facing away from your fence, extend the roof line 3' or so in that direction (now giving you a weather sheltered...
  5. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    At 3.5 x 14.5, each opening between your 2x4 rafters represents 50.75 sq inches, which you should approximate as 1/3 sq ft. As there are 6 such openings on each side, that's 4 sq ft free ventilation, 24/7/365. Most manufacturers, either on the packaging, or their website, will publish the free...
  6. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    It must be loading the wrong store for me from your link, as it shows availabiluty. Sorry, tried to help. Do you have Lowes, or Menards?
  7. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    I understand. I expected you would have a $14 "wavy" option at 8', and a $16 (or perhaps $17) 5v pattern available to you - that's the case for me. Surprised by your store's stocking options. and yes, at basically double the price, its not worth it. Not even close. But I would recommend...
  8. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Yes. BUT. Yes. You can use them. I prefer the "5V" pattern. It has big flat "landing zones", very easy to ensure the screw goes straight thru, straight into the purlin, no gap. The continuous undulations of the "wavy" panels make that a little harder. I also find them easier to walk on...
  9. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Rafter as usual, whatever spacing you feel appropriate. Install purlins (1x4s or 1x6s or 5/4x6 deck boards). Two screws, every place a purlin crosses the rafter, screw length of "purlin + 1/3 to 1/2 rafter thickness" - so if I framed with 2x4 rafters and used a 1x4 purlin, I'd look for screws...
  10. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    I've seen people mix the Suntuff panels with steel panel roofing having the same profile, to allow some passive solar lighting under an otherwise steel roof, since the framing below is identical, its easy to assemble the pieces with very limited concerns re: water leak/penetration. Sadly...
  11. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Most creatures want to dig as little as possible. Its why a dog will dig right next to the fence, instead of several feet away, and why they dig the bare minimum to slip undrr a fence,rather than deep down and tunneling. That's why you typically only have to go down 1 ft or so into the soil...
  12. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Apologies @junior67 , did not mean to hijack your thread in response to the other poster. Hopes you have a rewarding and successful chicken experience, you seem to be off to a great start, and you are clearly a conscientious owner. All kept animals should be so lucky.
  13. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Speaking only for myself, as a frequent poster offering the offending "4 sq ft/" comment, I do emphasize that the "rule of thumb" or general recommendation is 4/10/1 - 4 sq ft house, 10 sq ft run, 1 sq ft free ventilation - and then I go on to talk about the importance of thinking of the whole...
  14. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    ...and on the subject of arbitrary rules, 2x6s 16"oc is one of those. Whether to use a 2x6 or a 2x4 or a 2x8 or more, 12"oc, 16"oc, 24"oc, etc is a factor of span and load. Larger boards (or doubled timbers) allow greater spans, as does the use of LVL as opposed to southern yellow pine...
  15. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Better that a recommendation be given for "too much" (truly, "excess" or "above minimum") space which is suitable for most than to suggest the bare minimum adequate to intensive farming practice. Your own example, "The winter run area on the other hand is darn close to 5 sqft per bird" is...
  16. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    I have a raised coop that's 8x12, supported 3' off the ground on some 4x4s. I have ducks, they nest on the ground, so the "under" is their spot. Its a 4x8 sheet a 4x4 sheet and a 4x8 sheet for the floor, in the shape of a "U" so I can walk in, and nothing is more than 4' away (ok, corners are...
  17. U_Stormcrow

    coop design questions

    Brahmas are big birds (eventually). Cochin aren't small, either. Before you go too much further, I suggest you give some thought (space permitting) to increasing the coop size to 8x8 - fewer cuts, not much more lumber - and pushing the run out to 8x12. Much easier to do now than to redo later...
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