coop design questions

[U_Stormcrow]

Rafter as usual, whatever spacing you feel appropriate. Install purlins (1x4s or 1x6s or 5/4x6 deck boards). Two screws, every place a purlin crosses the rafter, screw length of "purlin + 1/3 to 1/2 rafter thickness" - so if I framed with 2x4 rafters and used a 1x4 purlin, I'd look for screws of 3/4" (purlin) + .5 times 3.5" (that is 1 3/4") in length, a total of 2.5".

Screws for the metal roofing should protrude thru the purlins by about 3 screw threads, so for a 1" (nominal) purlin, I'd want a screw with a total length of about 1 1/4" (including the protruding head, which is probable 1/4" tall on its own, if not 3/8" - I've not measured).

Screws thru the sheet metal go on the flats, NOT the ridges. Minimizes movement, lasts much longer. Rubber grommets on the screw should not be compressed/flattened, instead "just" snug.

Oh, and your metal likely has a "U" edge and a "V" edge (makes more sense if you look at them on end, laying flat). "U" goes over "V".

There, that covers most everything DH should need to know.

If I can do it, DH can - I'm afraid of heights!

 

[AmeliaBedelia]

What if you did metal roofing from the coop to the far side of the door and then had hardware cloth for the end, with the ability to screw metal or clear plastic over the top for winter to catch snow?

 

[AmeliaBedelia]

Note - make sure your flooring inside the run will drain water really well so you don't create a lake inside the bottom wooden border. Seems most people recommend builder's sand?

 

[ChickensForEggs2500]

For run substrate, woodchips for an uncovered run, and soiled shavings/litter from the coop for a covered run. I've heard sand working, but if you live in a rainy or humid climate, that sand is probably going to stink and turn hard like concrete. That coop/run design looks lovely! I can't wait to see how it turns out.

 

[ChickensForEggs2500]

What if you did metal roofing from the coop to the far side of the door and then had hardware cloth for the end, with the ability to screw metal or clear plastic over the top for winter to catch snow?

That is a wonderful idea!

 

[junior67]

Rafter as usual, whatever spacing you feel appropriate. Install purlins (1x4s or 1x6s or 5/4x6 deck boards). Two screws, every place a purlin crosses the rafter, screw length of "purlin + 1/3 to 1/2 rafter thickness" - so if I framed with 2x4 rafters and used a 1x4 purlin, I'd look for screws of 3/4" (purlin) + .5 times 3.5" (that is 1 3/4") in length, a total of 2.5".

Screws for the metal roofing should protrude thru the purlins by about 3 screw threads, so for a 1" (nominal) purlin, I'd want a screw with a total length of about 1 1/4" (including the protruding head, which is probable 1/4" tall on its own, if not 3/8" - I've not measured).

Screws thru the sheet metal go on the flats, NOT the ridges. Minimizes movement, lasts much longer. Rubber grommets on the screw should not be compressed/flattened, instead "just" snug.

Oh, and your metal likely has a "U" edge and a "V" edge (makes more sense if you look at them on end, laying flat). "U" goes over "V".

There, that covers most everything DH should need to know.

If I can do it, DH can - I'm afraid of heights!

hahaaa I am sure he will understand that but ya I have no clue what most of that means. He works in HVAC so works with sheet metal all the time so sure he will have a good idea of what to do. and he is a good handy man that I haven't seen anything that he can't do yet. He isn't a fan of heights but has no issues going on our roof and has to be on really high roofs for work.

so would these panels work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibralt...teel-Utility-Gauge-Roof-Panel-13513/202092961

 

[junior67]

For run substrate, woodchips for an uncovered run, and soiled shavings/litter from the coop for a covered run. I've heard sand working, but if you live in a rainy or humid climate, that sand is probably going to stink and turn hard like concrete. That coop/run design looks lovely! I can't wait to see how it turns out.

I hope it comes out as good as what is in my head. so far dh has been great with building things so sure it will come out great.

 

[Sally PB]

The greenhouse effect is real, for me. I want the clear roof for more light in the winter. Right now I have heavy duty tarps over chicken wire over a metal frame for a roof. I'm thinking tarps on over the clear panels in the summer for shade, off in the winter for more light. The walls are all a mix of fencing, chicken wire, and hardware cloth, so they're open.

I had a tarp over about half of the roof last summer. It stayed pretty dry under there, and there were no issues with drainage in the run.

Coops and runs. They're never really done, are they?

 

[U_Stormcrow]

hahaaa I am sure he will understand that but ya I have no clue what most of that means. He works in HVAC so works with sheet metal all the time so sure he will have a good idea of what to do. and he is a good handy man that I haven't seen anything that he can't do yet. He isn't a fan of heights but has no issues going on our roof and has to be on really high roofs for work.

so would these panels work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibralt...teel-Utility-Gauge-Roof-Panel-13513/202092961

Yes. BUT.

Yes. You can use them.

I prefer the "5V" pattern. It has big flat "landing zones", very easy to ensure the screw goes straight thru, straight into the purlin, no gap. The continuous undulations of the "wavy" panels make that a little harder. I also find them easier to walk on.

Finally, the 5v patterns at Home Depot and Lowes are slightly thicker (29ga vs. 31 gauge), which is good for long term durability, though there's not much difference.

If I was going to wrap steel around a cattle panel arch, I'd use the wavy pattern, however, it bows much more smoothly along its short dimension.

 

[junior67]

Yes. BUT.

Yes. You can use them.

I prefer the "5V" pattern. It has big flat "landing zones", very easy to ensure the screw goes straight thru, straight into the purlin, no gap. The continuous undulations of the "wavy" panels make that a little harder. I also find them easier to walk on.

Finally, the 5v patterns at Home Depot and Lowes are slightly thicker (29ga vs. 31 gauge), which is good for long term durability, though there's not much difference.

If I was going to wrap steel around a cattle panel arch, I'd use the wavy pattern, however, it bows much more smoothly along its short dimension.

ok that one is only $14.33 a panel in stock near me. Then there is this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibralt...l-29-Gauge-Roof-Siding-Panel-987601/314709085 for $25.10 that I would have to have shipped to the store. So figured for almost $11 a panel difference.......